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CHAPTER XXX On the Pyramids " Their size' alone and their form remains. Stripped of their brilliant white, smooth casing, once covered with strange carvings and paintings, bereft of the huge precincts and stone gateways, they appear barbarous, rude, rugged, almost meaningless shapes of forgotten power. And the Sphinx is more wonderful, more mysterious still— Horemku the ancient. No one can tell when the Sphinx came into being. There is a legend that it was in existence at the time when Chephren built his pyramid. Thothmes IV. cleared away the sand in which it was buried, at the command— given in a dream—of Harmachis, who claimed that it was his statue. Probably a far greater antiquity belongs to it, for Princess Honitsen, daughter of Cheops (builder of the Great Pyramid), speaks in an inscription on a stele, of a ' Temple of the Sphinx ' as existing in her day. " We see the Sphinx now defaced and mutilated, though Arab writers speak of its once strangely beautiful features. A suggestion as to this is that perhaps it is the sole survivor of a more ancient civilisation still, far beyond our ken, for the Egyptian craftsmen whom we know did not aim at beauty in itself: tied by convention, the keynote of their work was grandeur immensity that disclaimed projiortion. And yet, there, close to their most ancient monuments, is that figure, perfect in proportion, form, and line, and once in beauty a deeper, more mystical symbol than their most cunning gravings, more real in life than their most immense statues." Rene Francis. THE Pyramids are to Cairo what the Forum is to Rome. They arc of the highest beauty, and the highest antiquity. It is as impossible not to be astonished by the Pyramids as it is impossible not to be astonished by the ' According to Dr. Budge, in Cook's Handbook for Egypt, the Great Pyramid, that of Cheops, measures 775 feet along each of its four sides, and, though it has lost 30 feet of its height, is still 451 feet high; it contains 85,000,000 cubit feet of stone, and has a hall inside it more than 150 feet long and nearly 30 feet high. The second Pyramid is about 700 feel along each side, and is one foot lower than the other. The third Pyramid is 350 feel along each side, and about 210 feet high. — — i
P- 312] THE SPHINX BETWEEN- THE FIRST AND SECOND PYRAMIDS. From a photograph taken by the Author about 6 a.m., after sleeping at the foot of the Sphiii.x.
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SOME OF MR. DOUGLAS SLADEN'S BOOKS
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ORIENTAL CAIRO THE CITY OF THE ''AR
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DEDICATED, IN MEMORY OF DAYS SPENT
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VI 11 Preface wc have him in the st
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^ CHAPTER Contents PAGE IV. THE APP
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^" CHAPTKH Contents XXXII. MEMPHIS,
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'^^^ List of Illustrations FACING A
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xvi List of Illustrations FACING PA
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NATIVK liUa Ul Il!l. .MOKI". KIUIMC
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2 Oriental Cairo After this I hope
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4 Oriental Cairo that Cairo was inh
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I HE OCCITATION OF EGYPT SLEIil'INt
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6 Oriental Cairo The minarets of El
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8 Oriental Cairo On every side the
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CASTING iU.^ t-VE : A LITTLE COMEDY
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lo Oriental Cairo is followed by a
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3 Q :n A Uj < -d ^ 'i < 1 S 5 _ i>
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12 Oriental Cairo XXV. XXVI. XXVII.
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14 Oriental Cairo drive along the f
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A GRAND JEWISH FUNERAL AT CAIRO (ll
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1 6 Oriental Cairo V. The Sharia Mo
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1 8 Oriental Cairo a splendid stret
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20 Oriental Cairo XIV, The Beit-Gam
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BEDAWIN AT THE OIZUH MARKET. In fro
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22 Oriental Cairo the right into th
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24 Oriental Cairo ancient mosques w
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26 Oriental Cairo tlic perpendicula
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28 Oriental Cairo glare of an indes
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I A A SNAKE CHARMER. The saakeiii o
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30 Oriental Cairo med AH on the eas
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32 Oriental Cairo several ways is t
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34 Oriental Cairo drive round this
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36 Oriental Cairo LII. The Mo'allak
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3 8 Oriental Cairo the desert is th
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A SUA fc.K-AND-l\f>I
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40 Oriental Cairo features and expr
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42 Oriental Cairo Phoenixes in the
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FORAGE CAMEL X'Mr Ihfj |iii tiiri--
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44 Oriental Cairo administration of
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4^ Oriental Cairo dile on his head
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48 Oriental Cairo smokinc^. While I
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WOMAN CARRYING A HUGE IRON CAULDRON
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50 Oriental Cairo with the mere acc
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52 Oriental Cairo are also much add
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THE CHAPTER III The Humours of the
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56 Oriental Cairo restaurateurs and
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58 Oriental Cairo stick of Edinburg
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m^Miiiiiif tit^wa illKI I. AKAb l.K
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6o Oriental Cairo I have often phot
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62 Oriental Cairo the man who canno
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CHAPTER IV The Approach to the Nati
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THE CORNER OF THE ATABA-RI.-KH AUK
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66 Oriental Cairo out of doors, for
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68 Oriental Cairo cane-scllers and
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70 Oriental Cairo Soon you pass int
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CHAPTER V The Bazars of Cairo: the
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The Bazars of Cairo 73 mediasval ma
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The Bazars of Cairo 75 he will lose
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The Bazars of Cairo 77 Turkish town
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The Bazars of Cairo 79 who muzzle t
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The Bazars of Cairo When the typica
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The Bazars of Cairo 83 the broad Sh
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r c P8 c c v> R in C T) o B D > a 2
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THE CHAPTER VI Our Dragoman first t
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Our Dragoman 87 was very courageous
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Our Dragoman 89 the seventeenth cen
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Our Dragoman 91 street for us when
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Our Dragoman 93 ware he sold second
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How to Shop in Cairo 95 museum. The
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p. 9
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How to Shop in Cairo 97 your ancien
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How to Shop in Cairo 99 have fine o
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How to Shop in Cairo lor London, a
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How to Shop in Cairo 103 adjured, t
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A MARRIAGE PROCESSION', WITH THE HO
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How to Shop in Cairo 105 ing shopke
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How to Shop in Cairo 107 Except in
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Cairo at Night 109 and their huge f
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Cairo at Night 1 1 chairs that you
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Cairo at Night 113 spectacle late t
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p. ri4] AN EFFENDI HAVING HIS FORTU
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The Entertainments of the Arabs 115
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The Entertainments of the Arabs 117
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The -Entertainments of the Arabs 11
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CHAPTER X An Arab Bank Holiday: the
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^»ii!J' GREEKS DANCING I.\ THE GAR
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An Arab Bank Holiday: the Shem-en^N
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An Arab Bank Holiday: the Sheni'en'
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THE CHAPTER XI The Cairo Zoo Cairo
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The Cairo Zoo 129 be there without
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The Cairo Zoo 131 he adopted as he
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THE CHAPTER XII The Arab and Bedawi
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The Arab and Bedawin Markets of Cai
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WEST CHAPTER XIII The Old Arab Stre
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 143 h
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo HS on
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 147 d
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 149 o
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 151 s
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CHAPTER XIV The Characteristics of
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The Characteristics of the Gamia 15
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The Characteristics of the Gamia 15
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iJIE HEART OF CAIRO. The old gate c
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I CHAPTER XV The Mosques of Cairo S
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The Mosques of Cairo i6i with mosqu
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The Mosques of Cairo 163 is to the
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The Mosques of Cairo 165 enter the
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The Mosques of Cairo 167 street. If
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The Mosques of Cairo 169 love its l
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a. 5' & > 3 5 n n -3 05 P a H o > H
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The Mosques of Cairo 171 panelling
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The Mosques of Cairo 173 Cardinal W
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The Mosques of Cairo 175 delicate i
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The Mosques of Cairo i77 arabesqued
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The Mosques of Cairo i79 open air i
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The Mosques of Cairo i8i outlined w
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The Mosques of Cairo 183 for regula
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CHAPTER XVI EI'Azhar, the Universit
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EI-'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
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EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
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EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
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CHAPTER XVII Old Cairo and the Wond
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Old Cairo i95 A few enterprising fo
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Old Cairo 197 minaret is sugared ov
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Old Cairo 199 The effect of this da
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THIS PICTUKIi SHOWS THE BURKA OR FA
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202 Oriental Cairo Behind this scre
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204 Oriental Cairo place guide taki
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2o6 Oriental Cairo Some of the anci
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2o8 Oriental Cairo The massacre too
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2IO Oriental Cairo gilt foolscap pu
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212 Oriental Cairo of Jacob was of
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CHAPTER XIX Concerning the Tombs of
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2i6 Oriental Cairo Individually, in
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2i8 Oriental Cairo of the palace of
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a. a
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2 20 Oriental Cairo " Then came the
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222 Oriental Cairo of the Saint of
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224 Oriental Cairo for their beauty
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226 Oriental Cairo noticed hardly a
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22 8 Oriental Cairo large rings of
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o /. := O ::: a C a H « g
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230 Oriental Cairo added something
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232 Oriental Cairo gay festoons of
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234 Oriental Cairo cessive sheykh o
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236 Oriental Cairo cuts up the part
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THE PROCESSION OF THE HOLY CARPET,
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238 Oriental Cairo are carried in a
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240 Oriental Cairo spectacle was wo
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242 Oriental Cairo malignant e)'es
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THE CHAPTER XXII The Ashura and its
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246 Oriental Cairo ciation of forei
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248 Oriental Cairo that Ramidge had
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250 Oriental Cairo I was disappoint
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252 Oriental Cairo the supposed inc
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THE RETURN' OF THE PILGRIM FROM MEC
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2 54 Oriental Cairo front, and bras
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2^6 Oriental Cairo houses were deco
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258 Oriental Cairo to take the plun
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26o Oriental Cairo presence was det
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262 Oriental Cairo listening to tha
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AS too crowded ; CHAPTER XXIV The M
Page 338 and 339: 266 Oriental Cairo pride of the Mus
Page 340 and 341: 268 Oriental Cairo and furniture of
Page 342 and 343: 270 Oriental Cairo In the galleries
Page 344 and 345: CHAPTER XXV The Arab Hammam—A Cla
Page 346 and 347: 274 Oriental Cairo The entrance is
Page 348 and 349: 276 Oriental Cairo They smiled cour
Page 350 and 351: 278 Oriental Cairo To the women, of
Page 352 and 353: IF CHAPTER XXVI Roda Island and Mos
Page 354 and 355: |ii(ti ti .mil m ^0 "^^ A (.uRM.K o
Page 356 and 357: 2 82 Oriental Cairo the boxes had h
Page 358 and 359: 284 Oriental Cairo to overhang the
Page 360 and 361: 2 86 Oriental Cairo avarice, or caj
Page 362 and 363: 288 OHental Cairo another officer i
Page 364 and 365: 290 Oriental Cairo antiquity, since
Page 366 and 367: CHAPTER XXVI The Old Coptic Churche
Page 368 and 369: 294 Oriental Cairo When we left the
Page 370 and 371: 296 Oriental Cairo through more tha
Page 372 and 373: 298 Oriental Cairo polite and cordi
Page 374 and 375: 300 Oriental Cairo " Who is this Ki
Page 376: ROD-EL-FARAG CHAPTER XXVIII Rod^el'
Page 379 and 380: Rod^el^Faragf and Shubra 303 ostric
Page 381 and 382: Rod'-el'Farag and Shubra 305 vitali
Page 383 and 384: On the Humours of the Desert 307 ti
Page 385 and 386: On the Humours of the Desert 309 ho
Page 387: On the Humours of the Desert 3 1 by
Page 391 and 392: On the Pyramids 313 Falls of Niagar
Page 393 and 394: On the Pyramids 315 left the horse
Page 395 and 396: On the Pyramids 317 Cheops to the S
Page 397 and 398: On the Pyramids 319 a sort of bear-
Page 399 and 400: On the Pyramids 321 cannot hold the
Page 401 and 402: On the Pyramids 323 being which has
Page 403 and 404: OUR CHAPTER XXXI Sleeping at the Fe
Page 405 and 406: Sleeping at the Feet of the Sphinx
Page 411 and 412: Memphis; Tombs and Pyramids of Sakk
Page 413: 13* o O s a o -i B o o > 2 C 71
Page 416 and 417: 33 6 Oriental Cairo Behind the Pjra
Page 418 and 419: 33^ Oriental Cairo feet high. There
Page 420 and 421: 340 Oriental Cairo human touches Hk
Page 422 and 423: 34^ Oriental Cairo at Heliopolis ca
Page 424 and 425: 344 Oriental Cairo under the soil,
Page 426 and 427: 34^ Oriental Cairo I bitterly regre
Page 428 and 429: CHAPTER XXXIV Helwan, the Week-end
Page 430 and 431: 3S° Oriental Cairo wealthy, and th
Page 432 and 433: 25'^ Appendix I for the same price.
Page 434 and 435: APPENDIX II Cairo was the Real Scen
Page 436 and 437: 35^ Appendix II note by the same pe
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' 35^ Appendix II of the East ; nat
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360 Appendix II come across one of
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362 Appendix III known saint El-Gul
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364 Appendix III And there were oth
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366 Appendix III picturesque route
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APPENDIX IV Mr. Roosevelt's Speech
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370 Appendix IV " Your men in Afric
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372 Appendix IV such success. The i
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374 Appendix IV performing the task
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37^ Appendix IV you went into Egypt
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37 8 Rulers and Monuments of Mediae
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380 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
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382 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
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384 Index Baths, Arab women's, 278
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386 Index Gizeh paJace, 128 Gohar,
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1 388 Index Mosque tickets, 8g Mosq
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390 Index Sharia {covtinued) El-Klu
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PRINTED BV HAZELL, WATSON AND VINEY
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'iWA:;t-. ^smi'
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