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13^ Oriental Cairo<br />

which have seen much better days. Brass will always mend,<br />

and the more it has been used the better it will clean.<br />

Never ask the price of anything. The impulse of the pauper<br />

dealer at the Market of the Afternoon is to put an impossible<br />

value on anything of wliich a foreigner asks the price. He<br />

thinks at once that the object is one on which foreigners set a<br />

value, and he thinks that all foreigners are fools. Glance<br />

over his stock, settle in your own mind the price at which a<br />

thing will be a real bargain, tap it with your stick and show<br />

him the small piastre or piastre, or the few piastres which<br />

you intend to give for it, and if he will not take it go and<br />

start bargaining for something with the man at the next<br />

stall. You are sure to have offered him too much for it<br />

according to the native ideas, and he will call you back. If<br />

he hasn't called you back before you leave the market offer<br />

him a little more if you covet the article to that extent.<br />

Everything takes time in the East : a man may be perfectly<br />

willing to take your price, but he likes to do a little talking<br />

and chaffering over it. Don't waste time talking to him ; do<br />

your photographing ; look at the professional story-tellers in<br />

their rings of listeners, the snake-charmers, the gamblers, the<br />

people with performing monkeys, the donkeys having their<br />

parties as they roll in the dust at the edge of the market.<br />

While you are amusing yourself the dealers to whom you<br />

have made offers are making up their minds. It worries<br />

them when you shop in this inadvertent way. They are<br />

afraid that you will forget them and not come back to make<br />

another offer. Quite often they curse you instead. I like<br />

being cursed :<br />

doing it.<br />

I try and photograph them while they are<br />

I was never molested at the Market of the Afternoon.<br />

Sometimes a policeman would follow me about in a friendly<br />

way to see that I had no trouble. The police, though they<br />

are Nationalists in their sympathies, are very polite to English-<br />

men :<br />

they<br />

will even listen to his advice in the execution of<br />

their duty. It was a wonderful sight that market, with its<br />

long rows of ragged dealers with various expressions of<br />

cunning engendered by their hard struggles against prices,

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