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^" CHAPTKH Contents XXXII. MEMPHIS, THE AxXCIENT CAPITAL ; THE TOMLS AND PYRAMIDS OF SAKKARA . . 332 XXXIII. HELIOPOLIS 341 XXXIV. HELWAX, THE WEEK-END RESORT OF CAIRO 348 APPENDICES I. \YAYS OF GETTING TO EGYPT, COST, ETC. . 351 II. CAIRO WAS THE REAL SCENE OF "THE ARABIAN NIGHTS " . . . , 3^ , III. ARTI.STS' 1;ITS IN CAIRO, WITH DIRECTIONS HOW TO FIND THEM . . . . ->6l IV. MR. ROOSEVELT'S SPEECH ON EGYPT AT THE INDEX. GUILDHALL -.^jg CHRONOLOGICAL TA15LE OF THE RULERS AND MONUMENTS OF MEDI.-EVAL CAIRO . ^^7 383
LIST OF ILLUSTRx\TIONS From Photographs by the Author THE BAB-EN-HASR. THE OLD GATE OF VICTORY BUILT BY SALADIN Frontis/nece ARABS LUNCHING IN THE ATABA-EL-KHADRA NATIVE 'BUS OF THE MORE REFINED KIND, DRAWN BY TWO ASSES, IN THE ATABA-EL-KHADRA FACING PAGE THE SUK-EN-NAHASSIN. THE MOST BEAUTIFUL, ROMANTIC. AND MEDI.5VAL STREET IN CAIRO ^ THE OCCUPATION OF EGYPT—SLEEPING OUTSIDE THE CAIRO RAILWAY STATION : THE UNEMPLOYED—DONKEYS AND DONKEY-BOYS ....••••• CASTING HIS EYE : A LITTLE COMEDY OUTSIDE THE RAILWAY STATION AT CAIRO EGYPTIAN INFANTRY MARCHING PAST THE EGYPTIAN CAVALRY BAND A GRAND JEWISH FUNERAL IN CAIRO. THE HEARSE .... A GRAND JEWISH FUNERAL IN CAIRO. BOYS IN VELVET ROBES . I4 THE ARAB MARKET IN THE VILLAGE NEAR THE MENA HOUSE . BEDAWIN AT THE GIZEH MARKET A STORY-TELLER RECITING FROM THE "ARABIAN NIGHTS" A SN.^KE CHARMER A CAMEL BAND IN A PROCESSION WHICH HAS GONE TO MEET A PILGRIM RETURNED FROM MECCA . xiii . ^"^'' ^ 5 9 lO II 15 20 21 28 29 38
Page 1: ^4398^'
Page 6: SOME OF MR. DOUGLAS SLADEN'S BOOKS
Page 9 and 10: ORIENTAL CAIRO THE CITY OF THE ''AR
Page 11: DEDICATED, IN MEMORY OF DAYS SPENT
Page 14 and 15: VI 11 Preface wc have him in the st
Page 16 and 17: ^ CHAPTER Contents PAGE IV. THE APP
Page 20 and 21: '^^^ List of Illustrations FACING A
Page 22 and 23: xvi List of Illustrations FACING PA
Page 24 and 25: NATIVK liUa Ul Il!l. .MOKI". KIUIMC
Page 26 and 27: 2 Oriental Cairo After this I hope
Page 28 and 29: 4 Oriental Cairo that Cairo was inh
Page 30 and 31: I HE OCCITATION OF EGYPT SLEIil'INt
Page 32 and 33: 6 Oriental Cairo The minarets of El
Page 34 and 35: 8 Oriental Cairo On every side the
Page 36 and 37: CASTING iU.^ t-VE : A LITTLE COMEDY
Page 38 and 39: lo Oriental Cairo is followed by a
Page 40 and 41: 3 Q :n A Uj < -d ^ 'i < 1 S 5 _ i>
Page 42 and 43: 12 Oriental Cairo XXV. XXVI. XXVII.
Page 44 and 45: 14 Oriental Cairo drive along the f
Page 46 and 47: A GRAND JEWISH FUNERAL AT CAIRO (ll
Page 48 and 49: 1 6 Oriental Cairo V. The Sharia Mo
Page 50 and 51: 1 8 Oriental Cairo a splendid stret
Page 52 and 53: 20 Oriental Cairo XIV, The Beit-Gam
Page 54 and 55: BEDAWIN AT THE OIZUH MARKET. In fro
Page 56 and 57: 22 Oriental Cairo the right into th
Page 58 and 59: 24 Oriental Cairo ancient mosques w
Page 60 and 61: 26 Oriental Cairo tlic perpendicula
Page 62 and 63: 28 Oriental Cairo glare of an indes
Page 64 and 65: I A A SNAKE CHARMER. The saakeiii o
Page 66 and 67: 30 Oriental Cairo med AH on the eas
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32 Oriental Cairo several ways is t
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34 Oriental Cairo drive round this
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36 Oriental Cairo LII. The Mo'allak
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3 8 Oriental Cairo the desert is th
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A SUA fc.K-AND-l\f>I
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40 Oriental Cairo features and expr
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42 Oriental Cairo Phoenixes in the
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FORAGE CAMEL X'Mr Ihfj |iii tiiri--
Page 84 and 85:
44 Oriental Cairo administration of
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4^ Oriental Cairo dile on his head
Page 88 and 89:
48 Oriental Cairo smokinc^. While I
Page 90 and 91:
WOMAN CARRYING A HUGE IRON CAULDRON
Page 92 and 93:
50 Oriental Cairo with the mere acc
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52 Oriental Cairo are also much add
Page 96 and 97:
THE CHAPTER III The Humours of the
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56 Oriental Cairo restaurateurs and
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58 Oriental Cairo stick of Edinburg
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m^Miiiiiif tit^wa illKI I. AKAb l.K
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6o Oriental Cairo I have often phot
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62 Oriental Cairo the man who canno
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CHAPTER IV The Approach to the Nati
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THE CORNER OF THE ATABA-RI.-KH AUK
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66 Oriental Cairo out of doors, for
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68 Oriental Cairo cane-scllers and
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70 Oriental Cairo Soon you pass int
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CHAPTER V The Bazars of Cairo: the
Page 121 and 122:
The Bazars of Cairo 73 mediasval ma
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The Bazars of Cairo 75 he will lose
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The Bazars of Cairo 77 Turkish town
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The Bazars of Cairo 79 who muzzle t
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The Bazars of Cairo When the typica
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The Bazars of Cairo 83 the broad Sh
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r c P8 c c v> R in C T) o B D > a 2
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THE CHAPTER VI Our Dragoman first t
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Our Dragoman 87 was very courageous
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Our Dragoman 89 the seventeenth cen
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Our Dragoman 91 street for us when
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Our Dragoman 93 ware he sold second
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How to Shop in Cairo 95 museum. The
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p. 9
Page 149 and 150:
How to Shop in Cairo 97 your ancien
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How to Shop in Cairo 99 have fine o
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How to Shop in Cairo lor London, a
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How to Shop in Cairo 103 adjured, t
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A MARRIAGE PROCESSION', WITH THE HO
Page 159 and 160:
How to Shop in Cairo 105 ing shopke
Page 161 and 162:
How to Shop in Cairo 107 Except in
Page 163 and 164:
Cairo at Night 109 and their huge f
Page 165 and 166:
Cairo at Night 1 1 chairs that you
Page 167 and 168:
Cairo at Night 113 spectacle late t
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p. ri4] AN EFFENDI HAVING HIS FORTU
Page 171 and 172:
The Entertainments of the Arabs 115
Page 173 and 174:
The Entertainments of the Arabs 117
Page 175 and 176:
The -Entertainments of the Arabs 11
Page 177 and 178:
CHAPTER X An Arab Bank Holiday: the
Page 179 and 180:
^»ii!J' GREEKS DANCING I.\ THE GAR
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An Arab Bank Holiday: the Shem-en^N
Page 183 and 184:
An Arab Bank Holiday: the Sheni'en'
Page 185 and 186:
THE CHAPTER XI The Cairo Zoo Cairo
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The Cairo Zoo 129 be there without
Page 189 and 190:
The Cairo Zoo 131 he adopted as he
Page 191 and 192:
THE CHAPTER XII The Arab and Bedawi
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The Arab and Bedawin Markets of Cai
Page 195 and 196:
Page 197 and 198:
Page 199 and 200:
WEST CHAPTER XIII The Old Arab Stre
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 143 h
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo HS on
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 147 d
Page 207 and 208:
The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 149 o
Page 209 and 210:
The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 151 s
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CHAPTER XIV The Characteristics of
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The Characteristics of the Gamia 15
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The Characteristics of the Gamia 15
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iJIE HEART OF CAIRO. The old gate c
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I CHAPTER XV The Mosques of Cairo S
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The Mosques of Cairo i6i with mosqu
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The Mosques of Cairo 163 is to the
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The Mosques of Cairo 165 enter the
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The Mosques of Cairo 167 street. If
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The Mosques of Cairo 169 love its l
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a. 5' & > 3 5 n n -3 05 P a H o > H
Page 233 and 234:
The Mosques of Cairo 171 panelling
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The Mosques of Cairo 173 Cardinal W
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The Mosques of Cairo 175 delicate i
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The Mosques of Cairo i77 arabesqued
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The Mosques of Cairo i79 open air i
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The Mosques of Cairo i8i outlined w
Page 245 and 246:
The Mosques of Cairo 183 for regula
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CHAPTER XVI EI'Azhar, the Universit
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EI-'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
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EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
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EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
Page 255 and 256:
CHAPTER XVII Old Cairo and the Wond
Page 257 and 258:
Old Cairo i95 A few enterprising fo
Page 259 and 260:
Old Cairo 197 minaret is sugared ov
Page 261 and 262:
Old Cairo 199 The effect of this da
Page 264 and 265:
THIS PICTUKIi SHOWS THE BURKA OR FA
Page 266 and 267:
202 Oriental Cairo Behind this scre
Page 268 and 269:
204 Oriental Cairo place guide taki
Page 270 and 271:
2o6 Oriental Cairo Some of the anci
Page 272 and 273:
2o8 Oriental Cairo The massacre too
Page 274 and 275:
2IO Oriental Cairo gilt foolscap pu
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212 Oriental Cairo of Jacob was of
Page 278 and 279:
CHAPTER XIX Concerning the Tombs of
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2i6 Oriental Cairo Individually, in
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2i8 Oriental Cairo of the palace of
Page 284 and 285:
a. a
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2 20 Oriental Cairo " Then came the
Page 288 and 289:
222 Oriental Cairo of the Saint of
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224 Oriental Cairo for their beauty
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226 Oriental Cairo noticed hardly a
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22 8 Oriental Cairo large rings of
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o /. := O ::: a C a H « g
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230 Oriental Cairo added something
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232 Oriental Cairo gay festoons of
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234 Oriental Cairo cessive sheykh o
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236 Oriental Cairo cuts up the part
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THE PROCESSION OF THE HOLY CARPET,
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238 Oriental Cairo are carried in a
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240 Oriental Cairo spectacle was wo
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242 Oriental Cairo malignant e)'es
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THE CHAPTER XXII The Ashura and its
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246 Oriental Cairo ciation of forei
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248 Oriental Cairo that Ramidge had
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250 Oriental Cairo I was disappoint
Page 322 and 323:
252 Oriental Cairo the supposed inc
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THE RETURN' OF THE PILGRIM FROM MEC
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2 54 Oriental Cairo front, and bras
Page 328 and 329:
2^6 Oriental Cairo houses were deco
Page 330 and 331:
258 Oriental Cairo to take the plun
Page 332 and 333:
26o Oriental Cairo presence was det
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262 Oriental Cairo listening to tha
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AS too crowded ; CHAPTER XXIV The M
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266 Oriental Cairo pride of the Mus
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268 Oriental Cairo and furniture of
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270 Oriental Cairo In the galleries
Page 344 and 345:
CHAPTER XXV The Arab Hammam—A Cla
Page 346 and 347:
274 Oriental Cairo The entrance is
Page 348 and 349:
276 Oriental Cairo They smiled cour
Page 350 and 351:
278 Oriental Cairo To the women, of
Page 352 and 353:
IF CHAPTER XXVI Roda Island and Mos
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|ii(ti ti .mil m ^0 "^^ A (.uRM.K o
Page 356 and 357:
2 82 Oriental Cairo the boxes had h
Page 358 and 359:
284 Oriental Cairo to overhang the
Page 360 and 361:
2 86 Oriental Cairo avarice, or caj
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288 OHental Cairo another officer i
Page 364 and 365:
290 Oriental Cairo antiquity, since
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CHAPTER XXVI The Old Coptic Churche
Page 368 and 369:
294 Oriental Cairo When we left the
Page 370 and 371:
296 Oriental Cairo through more tha
Page 372 and 373:
298 Oriental Cairo polite and cordi
Page 374 and 375:
300 Oriental Cairo " Who is this Ki
Page 376:
ROD-EL-FARAG CHAPTER XXVIII Rod^el'
Page 379 and 380:
Rod^el^Faragf and Shubra 303 ostric
Page 381 and 382:
Rod'-el'Farag and Shubra 305 vitali
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On the Humours of the Desert 307 ti
Page 385 and 386:
On the Humours of the Desert 309 ho
Page 387 and 388:
On the Humours of the Desert 3 1 by
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P- 312] THE SPHINX BETWEEN- THE FIR
Page 391 and 392:
On the Pyramids 313 Falls of Niagar
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On the Pyramids 315 left the horse
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On the Pyramids 317 Cheops to the S
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On the Pyramids 319 a sort of bear-
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On the Pyramids 321 cannot hold the
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On the Pyramids 323 being which has
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OUR CHAPTER XXXI Sleeping at the Fe
Page 405 and 406:
Sleeping at the Feet of the Sphinx
Page 407 and 408:
Page 409 and 410:
Page 411 and 412:
Memphis; Tombs and Pyramids of Sakk
Page 413:
13* o O s a o -i B o o > 2 C 71
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33 6 Oriental Cairo Behind the Pjra
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33^ Oriental Cairo feet high. There
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340 Oriental Cairo human touches Hk
Page 422 and 423:
34^ Oriental Cairo at Heliopolis ca
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344 Oriental Cairo under the soil,
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34^ Oriental Cairo I bitterly regre
Page 428 and 429:
CHAPTER XXXIV Helwan, the Week-end
Page 430 and 431:
3S° Oriental Cairo wealthy, and th
Page 432 and 433:
25'^ Appendix I for the same price.
Page 434 and 435:
APPENDIX II Cairo was the Real Scen
Page 436 and 437:
35^ Appendix II note by the same pe
Page 438 and 439:
' 35^ Appendix II of the East ; nat
Page 440 and 441:
360 Appendix II come across one of
Page 442 and 443:
362 Appendix III known saint El-Gul
Page 444 and 445:
364 Appendix III And there were oth
Page 446 and 447:
366 Appendix III picturesque route
Page 448 and 449:
APPENDIX IV Mr. Roosevelt's Speech
Page 450 and 451:
370 Appendix IV " Your men in Afric
Page 452 and 453:
372 Appendix IV such success. The i
Page 454 and 455:
374 Appendix IV performing the task
Page 456 and 457:
37^ Appendix IV you went into Egypt
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37 8 Rulers and Monuments of Mediae
Page 460 and 461:
380 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
Page 462 and 463:
382 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
Page 464 and 465:
384 Index Baths, Arab women's, 278
Page 466 and 467:
386 Index Gizeh paJace, 128 Gohar,
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1 388 Index Mosque tickets, 8g Mosq
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390 Index Sharia {covtinued) El-Klu
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PRINTED BV HAZELL, WATSON AND VINEY
Page 476:
'iWA:;t-. ^smi'
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