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360 Appendix II come across one of these awful beings, incarnate in the form of a jackal or serpent, or meet, in his own hideous shape, the appalling Nesnas, who is a man split in twoi with half a head, half a body, one arm and one leg, and yet hops along with astonishing agility, and is said, when caught, to have been found very sweet-eating by the people of Hadramaut? To live among such fancies must have given a relish to life, even when one knew that one's destiny was inscribed in the sutures of the skull, and in spite of those ascetic souls who found consolation in staring at a blank wall until they saw the name of Allah blazing on it."
APPENDIX III Artists* Bits in Cairo, with Directions how to find them (Artists may be grateful to me for indicating the streets in which they will find the best subjects in the Old Orie7ital parts of Cairo.) FROM the big square called the Place Bab-el-Khalk which stands next to the Governorat of Cairo and opposite the Arab Museum, there runs down to the Bab-es- Zuweyla a little winding street called the Sharia Taht-er- Reba'a. It is a very typical native street, chiefly devoted to wood-turners, who use a bow-string instead of a bench and lathe and seem to spend most of their time in turning the little pegs of hard wood used in the manufacture of nieshrebiya work. You will pass more than one quaint old fountain with a Koran-school buzzing in the arcade above, and more than one small mosque as you go down the street. But it is not until you are almost opposite the back wall of the great El-Moayyad mosque that you come to the little Place-el- Gulchani, where there are generally tentmakers working at the preposterous embroideries to which they give so much more attention than the actual manufacture of marquees. At first it looks a very ordinary little square, having for its principal feature a plain flight of mosque steps leading up to rather a dead wall. But at the top of the steps there is an open passage, and, if you happen to look through that, you see something as shining and blue as a huge turquoise. You fly up the steps and through the passage, and there in the centre of a courtyard see a little sort of tower covered with glorious ancient tiles of the richest turquoise blue. This is the tekke of the Dervishes who take for their patron the well- 361
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^4398^'
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SOME OF MR. DOUGLAS SLADEN'S BOOKS
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ORIENTAL CAIRO THE CITY OF THE ''AR
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DEDICATED, IN MEMORY OF DAYS SPENT
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VI 11 Preface wc have him in the st
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^ CHAPTER Contents PAGE IV. THE APP
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^" CHAPTKH Contents XXXII. MEMPHIS,
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'^^^ List of Illustrations FACING A
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xvi List of Illustrations FACING PA
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NATIVK liUa Ul Il!l. .MOKI". KIUIMC
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2 Oriental Cairo After this I hope
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4 Oriental Cairo that Cairo was inh
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I HE OCCITATION OF EGYPT SLEIil'INt
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6 Oriental Cairo The minarets of El
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8 Oriental Cairo On every side the
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CASTING iU.^ t-VE : A LITTLE COMEDY
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lo Oriental Cairo is followed by a
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3 Q :n A Uj < -d ^ 'i < 1 S 5 _ i>
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12 Oriental Cairo XXV. XXVI. XXVII.
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14 Oriental Cairo drive along the f
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A GRAND JEWISH FUNERAL AT CAIRO (ll
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1 6 Oriental Cairo V. The Sharia Mo
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1 8 Oriental Cairo a splendid stret
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20 Oriental Cairo XIV, The Beit-Gam
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BEDAWIN AT THE OIZUH MARKET. In fro
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22 Oriental Cairo the right into th
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24 Oriental Cairo ancient mosques w
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26 Oriental Cairo tlic perpendicula
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28 Oriental Cairo glare of an indes
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I A A SNAKE CHARMER. The saakeiii o
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30 Oriental Cairo med AH on the eas
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32 Oriental Cairo several ways is t
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34 Oriental Cairo drive round this
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36 Oriental Cairo LII. The Mo'allak
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3 8 Oriental Cairo the desert is th
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A SUA fc.K-AND-l\f>I
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40 Oriental Cairo features and expr
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42 Oriental Cairo Phoenixes in the
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FORAGE CAMEL X'Mr Ihfj |iii tiiri--
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44 Oriental Cairo administration of
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4^ Oriental Cairo dile on his head
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48 Oriental Cairo smokinc^. While I
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WOMAN CARRYING A HUGE IRON CAULDRON
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50 Oriental Cairo with the mere acc
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52 Oriental Cairo are also much add
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THE CHAPTER III The Humours of the
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56 Oriental Cairo restaurateurs and
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58 Oriental Cairo stick of Edinburg
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m^Miiiiiif tit^wa illKI I. AKAb l.K
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6o Oriental Cairo I have often phot
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62 Oriental Cairo the man who canno
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CHAPTER IV The Approach to the Nati
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THE CORNER OF THE ATABA-RI.-KH AUK
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66 Oriental Cairo out of doors, for
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68 Oriental Cairo cane-scllers and
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70 Oriental Cairo Soon you pass int
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CHAPTER V The Bazars of Cairo: the
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The Bazars of Cairo 73 mediasval ma
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The Bazars of Cairo 75 he will lose
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The Bazars of Cairo 77 Turkish town
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The Bazars of Cairo 79 who muzzle t
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The Bazars of Cairo When the typica
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The Bazars of Cairo 83 the broad Sh
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r c P8 c c v> R in C T) o B D > a 2
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THE CHAPTER VI Our Dragoman first t
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Our Dragoman 87 was very courageous
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Our Dragoman 89 the seventeenth cen
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Our Dragoman 91 street for us when
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Our Dragoman 93 ware he sold second
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How to Shop in Cairo 95 museum. The
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p. 9
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How to Shop in Cairo 97 your ancien
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How to Shop in Cairo 99 have fine o
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How to Shop in Cairo lor London, a
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How to Shop in Cairo 103 adjured, t
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A MARRIAGE PROCESSION', WITH THE HO
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How to Shop in Cairo 105 ing shopke
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How to Shop in Cairo 107 Except in
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Cairo at Night 109 and their huge f
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Cairo at Night 1 1 chairs that you
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Cairo at Night 113 spectacle late t
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p. ri4] AN EFFENDI HAVING HIS FORTU
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The Entertainments of the Arabs 115
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The Entertainments of the Arabs 117
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The -Entertainments of the Arabs 11
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CHAPTER X An Arab Bank Holiday: the
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^»ii!J' GREEKS DANCING I.\ THE GAR
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An Arab Bank Holiday: the Shem-en^N
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An Arab Bank Holiday: the Sheni'en'
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THE CHAPTER XI The Cairo Zoo Cairo
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The Cairo Zoo 129 be there without
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The Cairo Zoo 131 he adopted as he
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THE CHAPTER XII The Arab and Bedawi
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The Arab and Bedawin Markets of Cai
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WEST CHAPTER XIII The Old Arab Stre
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 143 h
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo HS on
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 147 d
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 149 o
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 151 s
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CHAPTER XIV The Characteristics of
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The Characteristics of the Gamia 15
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The Characteristics of the Gamia 15
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iJIE HEART OF CAIRO. The old gate c
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I CHAPTER XV The Mosques of Cairo S
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The Mosques of Cairo i6i with mosqu
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The Mosques of Cairo 163 is to the
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The Mosques of Cairo 165 enter the
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The Mosques of Cairo 167 street. If
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The Mosques of Cairo 169 love its l
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a. 5' & > 3 5 n n -3 05 P a H o > H
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The Mosques of Cairo 171 panelling
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The Mosques of Cairo 173 Cardinal W
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The Mosques of Cairo 175 delicate i
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The Mosques of Cairo i77 arabesqued
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The Mosques of Cairo i79 open air i
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The Mosques of Cairo i8i outlined w
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The Mosques of Cairo 183 for regula
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CHAPTER XVI EI'Azhar, the Universit
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EI-'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
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EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
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EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
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CHAPTER XVII Old Cairo and the Wond
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Old Cairo i95 A few enterprising fo
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Old Cairo 197 minaret is sugared ov
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Old Cairo 199 The effect of this da
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THIS PICTUKIi SHOWS THE BURKA OR FA
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202 Oriental Cairo Behind this scre
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204 Oriental Cairo place guide taki
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2o6 Oriental Cairo Some of the anci
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2o8 Oriental Cairo The massacre too
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2IO Oriental Cairo gilt foolscap pu
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212 Oriental Cairo of Jacob was of
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CHAPTER XIX Concerning the Tombs of
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2i6 Oriental Cairo Individually, in
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2i8 Oriental Cairo of the palace of
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a. a
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2 20 Oriental Cairo " Then came the
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222 Oriental Cairo of the Saint of
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224 Oriental Cairo for their beauty
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226 Oriental Cairo noticed hardly a
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22 8 Oriental Cairo large rings of
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o /. := O ::: a C a H « g
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230 Oriental Cairo added something
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232 Oriental Cairo gay festoons of
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234 Oriental Cairo cessive sheykh o
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236 Oriental Cairo cuts up the part
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THE PROCESSION OF THE HOLY CARPET,
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238 Oriental Cairo are carried in a
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240 Oriental Cairo spectacle was wo
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242 Oriental Cairo malignant e)'es
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THE CHAPTER XXII The Ashura and its
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246 Oriental Cairo ciation of forei
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248 Oriental Cairo that Ramidge had
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250 Oriental Cairo I was disappoint
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252 Oriental Cairo the supposed inc
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THE RETURN' OF THE PILGRIM FROM MEC
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2 54 Oriental Cairo front, and bras
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2^6 Oriental Cairo houses were deco
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258 Oriental Cairo to take the plun
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26o Oriental Cairo presence was det
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262 Oriental Cairo listening to tha
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AS too crowded ; CHAPTER XXIV The M
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266 Oriental Cairo pride of the Mus
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268 Oriental Cairo and furniture of
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270 Oriental Cairo In the galleries
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CHAPTER XXV The Arab Hammam—A Cla
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274 Oriental Cairo The entrance is
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276 Oriental Cairo They smiled cour
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278 Oriental Cairo To the women, of
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IF CHAPTER XXVI Roda Island and Mos
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|ii(ti ti .mil m ^0 "^^ A (.uRM.K o
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2 82 Oriental Cairo the boxes had h
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284 Oriental Cairo to overhang the
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2 86 Oriental Cairo avarice, or caj
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288 OHental Cairo another officer i
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290 Oriental Cairo antiquity, since
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CHAPTER XXVI The Old Coptic Churche
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294 Oriental Cairo When we left the
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296 Oriental Cairo through more tha
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298 Oriental Cairo polite and cordi
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300 Oriental Cairo " Who is this Ki
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ROD-EL-FARAG CHAPTER XXVIII Rod^el'
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Rod^el^Faragf and Shubra 303 ostric
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Rod'-el'Farag and Shubra 305 vitali
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On the Humours of the Desert 307 ti
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On the Humours of the Desert 309 ho
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On the Humours of the Desert 3 1 by
Page 389 and 390: P- 312] THE SPHINX BETWEEN- THE FIR
Page 391 and 392: On the Pyramids 313 Falls of Niagar
Page 393 and 394: On the Pyramids 315 left the horse
Page 395 and 396: On the Pyramids 317 Cheops to the S
Page 397 and 398: On the Pyramids 319 a sort of bear-
Page 399 and 400: On the Pyramids 321 cannot hold the
Page 401 and 402: On the Pyramids 323 being which has
Page 403 and 404: OUR CHAPTER XXXI Sleeping at the Fe
Page 405 and 406: Sleeping at the Feet of the Sphinx
Page 411 and 412: Memphis; Tombs and Pyramids of Sakk
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Page 416 and 417: 33 6 Oriental Cairo Behind the Pjra
Page 418 and 419: 33^ Oriental Cairo feet high. There
Page 420 and 421: 340 Oriental Cairo human touches Hk
Page 422 and 423: 34^ Oriental Cairo at Heliopolis ca
Page 424 and 425: 344 Oriental Cairo under the soil,
Page 426 and 427: 34^ Oriental Cairo I bitterly regre
Page 428 and 429: CHAPTER XXXIV Helwan, the Week-end
Page 430 and 431: 3S° Oriental Cairo wealthy, and th
Page 432 and 433: 25'^ Appendix I for the same price.
Page 434 and 435: APPENDIX II Cairo was the Real Scen
Page 436 and 437: 35^ Appendix II note by the same pe
Page 438 and 439: ' 35^ Appendix II of the East ; nat
Page 442 and 443: 362 Appendix III known saint El-Gul
Page 444 and 445: 364 Appendix III And there were oth
Page 446 and 447: 366 Appendix III picturesque route
Page 448 and 449: APPENDIX IV Mr. Roosevelt's Speech
Page 450 and 451: 370 Appendix IV " Your men in Afric
Page 452 and 453: 372 Appendix IV such success. The i
Page 454 and 455: 374 Appendix IV performing the task
Page 456 and 457: 37^ Appendix IV you went into Egypt
Page 458 and 459: 37 8 Rulers and Monuments of Mediae
Page 460 and 461: 380 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
Page 462 and 463: 382 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
Page 464 and 465: 384 Index Baths, Arab women's, 278
Page 466 and 467: 386 Index Gizeh paJace, 128 Gohar,
Page 468 and 469: 1 388 Index Mosque tickets, 8g Mosq
Page 470 and 471: 390 Index Sharia {covtinued) El-Klu
Page 472: PRINTED BV HAZELL, WATSON AND VINEY
Page 476: 'iWA:;t-. ^smi'
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