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276 Oriental Cairo<br />

They smiled courteously, and the attendant of course looked<br />

for his fee and accepted it. Yet I seldom had AH there to<br />

keep me in countenance, for unless he and I were alone he<br />

remained outside to take charge of the ladies.<br />

These visits to the haniviaiii were full of impressions for<br />

the imagination. Everything went on as if no stranger were<br />

present. The beautiful octagonal fountain of the Jiarara<br />

always had a broad marble rim, on which the bather sat about<br />

with nothing more than a waistcloth, and often quite nude,<br />

while the massager cracked his joints and kneaded his flesh<br />

or rasped the soles of his feet. Some people prefered to lie<br />

down on the liwdn while their joints were cracked. I used<br />

to wonder how they survived it ; the massagers used to crack<br />

every joint in the body ; they even used to make the neck<br />

crack twice by twisting the head round first one way and<br />

then the other. Nobody's neck was ever broken while<br />

I was there. But I am sure mine would have been if I had<br />

let them try. That alone would have prevented me from<br />

bathing in a native Jiavimam after I had seen the first. It<br />

seemed so funny to see quite important people having their<br />

ears twisted round until they cracked, by common bath<br />

attendants. Even that did not make me shudder like seeing<br />

patients having their feet rasped. The rasps were made of<br />

clay from Assyut I suppose, in the form of a crocodile or any<br />

other suitable beast ; and those which were used for the feet<br />

of the common people were as rough as a bread-crumb<br />

grater, though those used for the upper classes were finer and<br />

smoother. I supposed that if you trudged about the streets<br />

barefoot your feet did get protuberances that needed a nutmeg-grater<br />

to remove them, but I did not understand how<br />

any foot less solid than a horse's hoof could stand those rough<br />

rasps.<br />

All the bathers in the Jiarara were in a profuse state of<br />

perspiration, and no wonder, for the room was heated with<br />

hot air, and a jet of nearly boiling water was playing from the<br />

Jaskiya, and in one if not two corners of the room there were<br />

smaller rooms containing tanks of the hottest water a human<br />

being could bear, called maghtas, for the bathers to plunge

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