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156 Oriental Cairo so low that any one could step over it at the bottom, which is nevertheless guarded by a tall doorway with an inlaid door, whose function is therefore purely ceremonial. This pulpit is used for preaching ; a few yards in front of it is the dikka, a platform for reading the Koran, which is sometimes made of wood like the uiimbar, sometimes of white marble covered with bas-reliefs, as at El-Moayyad. These diklcas are like the long pulpits used in early Romanesque churches. They have one extraordinary feature : though they may be a dozen feet high, they have no staircase leading up to them ; they are ascended by a common ladder. The floor of a rich mosque is sometimes covered with a fine Turkey carpet, but more often with simple matting. The walls up to a considerable height should be covered with the panelling of tessellated marbles, which the Arabs obviously copied from the Norman buildings of Sicily, in which strips and disks of porphyry and serpentine play a great part. Above this panelling, instead of mosaic pictures they have plaster carved with exquisite arabesques and inscriptions from the Koran. Kaniariyas, windows of carved plaster set with bits of stained glass, form another notable feature. The northern, western, and southern recesses have their floors cither left bare or covered with matting. The central courtyard, like the walls, is sometimes covered with tessellated marbles ; it is more often of glittering white marble. In the centre usually stands a fountain of lustration under a highly picturesque canopy. But El-Azhar has no fountain in its courtyard, and where the courtyards are large they are sometimes, as at the Blue Mosque, not paved. In the fifteenth century a new type of mosque came in, in which the college idea was generally lost, the mosque of what we call the Kait Bey type being more in the nature of a chapel attached to the founder's tomb. They were conse- quently very much smaller, and, being smaller, were easy to roof over with a cupola. The central portion of the floor, which would have been the courtyard in one of the older mosques, is still sunk below the level of the recesses, and almost invariably paved with richly tessellated marbles. The
The Characteristics of the Gamia 157 other decorations are also usually correspondingly rich, and their roofs are masses of colour, delightfully mellow where they have not been restored. Like the Cappella Reale at Palermo, the best mosques of the Kait Bey type leave hardly an inch of wall or floor undecorated. The band of windows round the base of the cupola, often of coloured glass set in small pieces in pierced plaster-work, sheds a chastened light. The tomb, for which the mosque was founded, generally stands under a dome beside or behind the liwdn. It is sometimes more richly decorated than the mosque itself, great features in the decoration being the noble inscriptions from the Koran in the exquisite Arabic lettering. The tombs, which often have very rich screens, are themselves the least worthy features in the building—two-decked altars of white marble with inscriptions crudely coloured, and a stele at head and foot, surmounted by an ill-carved turban. There is probably some convention to account for their crudeness. About the finest specimen of this fifteenth-century type, on account of its great size, its solemn colouring, and its freedom from meretricious details, is the mosque of El-Ghury. The most beautiful, for the elegance of its exterior, and the rich- ness of its interior, is the mosque of Kait Bey, out at the Tombs of the Caliphs. The mosque of Kait Bey, in the city is a gem of mellow decoration ; other splendid examples of this style are the mosque of Kismas-el-Ishaky, El-Bordeini, and Abu-Bekr. Most mosques of any pretensions are approached by a sweeping flight of steps, with a marble balustrade. This leads up to a narrow apse of great height, with its head ornamented with matrix work. The door is of no great size, but it is often extremely beautiful, being made of bronze, adorned with conventional patterns which bear a singular resemblance to Japanese patterns, the chrysanthemum, which probably here represents the conventionalised sun of Ancient Egyptian monuments, forming the most conspicuous feature. Every mosque has a lavatory attached to it, and many formerly had a hospital as well as a college.
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SOME OF MR. DOUGLAS SLADEN'S BOOKS
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ORIENTAL CAIRO THE CITY OF THE ''AR
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DEDICATED, IN MEMORY OF DAYS SPENT
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VI 11 Preface wc have him in the st
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^ CHAPTER Contents PAGE IV. THE APP
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^" CHAPTKH Contents XXXII. MEMPHIS,
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'^^^ List of Illustrations FACING A
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xvi List of Illustrations FACING PA
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NATIVK liUa Ul Il!l. .MOKI". KIUIMC
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2 Oriental Cairo After this I hope
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4 Oriental Cairo that Cairo was inh
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I HE OCCITATION OF EGYPT SLEIil'INt
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6 Oriental Cairo The minarets of El
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8 Oriental Cairo On every side the
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CASTING iU.^ t-VE : A LITTLE COMEDY
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lo Oriental Cairo is followed by a
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3 Q :n A Uj < -d ^ 'i < 1 S 5 _ i>
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12 Oriental Cairo XXV. XXVI. XXVII.
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14 Oriental Cairo drive along the f
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A GRAND JEWISH FUNERAL AT CAIRO (ll
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1 6 Oriental Cairo V. The Sharia Mo
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1 8 Oriental Cairo a splendid stret
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20 Oriental Cairo XIV, The Beit-Gam
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BEDAWIN AT THE OIZUH MARKET. In fro
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22 Oriental Cairo the right into th
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24 Oriental Cairo ancient mosques w
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26 Oriental Cairo tlic perpendicula
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28 Oriental Cairo glare of an indes
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I A A SNAKE CHARMER. The saakeiii o
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30 Oriental Cairo med AH on the eas
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32 Oriental Cairo several ways is t
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34 Oriental Cairo drive round this
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36 Oriental Cairo LII. The Mo'allak
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3 8 Oriental Cairo the desert is th
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A SUA fc.K-AND-l\f>I
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40 Oriental Cairo features and expr
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42 Oriental Cairo Phoenixes in the
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FORAGE CAMEL X'Mr Ihfj |iii tiiri--
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44 Oriental Cairo administration of
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4^ Oriental Cairo dile on his head
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48 Oriental Cairo smokinc^. While I
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WOMAN CARRYING A HUGE IRON CAULDRON
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50 Oriental Cairo with the mere acc
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52 Oriental Cairo are also much add
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THE CHAPTER III The Humours of the
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56 Oriental Cairo restaurateurs and
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58 Oriental Cairo stick of Edinburg
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m^Miiiiiif tit^wa illKI I. AKAb l.K
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6o Oriental Cairo I have often phot
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62 Oriental Cairo the man who canno
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CHAPTER IV The Approach to the Nati
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THE CORNER OF THE ATABA-RI.-KH AUK
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66 Oriental Cairo out of doors, for
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68 Oriental Cairo cane-scllers and
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70 Oriental Cairo Soon you pass int
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CHAPTER V The Bazars of Cairo: the
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The Bazars of Cairo 73 mediasval ma
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The Bazars of Cairo 75 he will lose
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The Bazars of Cairo 77 Turkish town
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The Bazars of Cairo 79 who muzzle t
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The Bazars of Cairo When the typica
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The Bazars of Cairo 83 the broad Sh
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r c P8 c c v> R in C T) o B D > a 2
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THE CHAPTER VI Our Dragoman first t
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Our Dragoman 87 was very courageous
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Our Dragoman 89 the seventeenth cen
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Our Dragoman 91 street for us when
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Our Dragoman 93 ware he sold second
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How to Shop in Cairo 95 museum. The
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p. 9
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How to Shop in Cairo 97 your ancien
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How to Shop in Cairo 99 have fine o
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How to Shop in Cairo lor London, a
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How to Shop in Cairo 103 adjured, t
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A MARRIAGE PROCESSION', WITH THE HO
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How to Shop in Cairo 105 ing shopke
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How to Shop in Cairo 107 Except in
Page 163 and 164: Cairo at Night 109 and their huge f
Page 165 and 166: Cairo at Night 1 1 chairs that you
Page 167 and 168: Cairo at Night 113 spectacle late t
Page 169 and 170: p. ri4] AN EFFENDI HAVING HIS FORTU
Page 171 and 172: The Entertainments of the Arabs 115
Page 173 and 174: The Entertainments of the Arabs 117
Page 175 and 176: The -Entertainments of the Arabs 11
Page 177 and 178: CHAPTER X An Arab Bank Holiday: the
Page 179 and 180: ^»ii!J' GREEKS DANCING I.\ THE GAR
Page 181 and 182: An Arab Bank Holiday: the Shem-en^N
Page 183 and 184: An Arab Bank Holiday: the Sheni'en'
Page 185 and 186: THE CHAPTER XI The Cairo Zoo Cairo
Page 187 and 188: The Cairo Zoo 129 be there without
Page 189 and 190: The Cairo Zoo 131 he adopted as he
Page 191 and 192: THE CHAPTER XII The Arab and Bedawi
Page 193 and 194: The Arab and Bedawin Markets of Cai
Page 199 and 200: WEST CHAPTER XIII The Old Arab Stre
Page 201 and 202: The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 143 h
Page 203 and 204: The Old Arab Streets of Cairo HS on
Page 205 and 206: The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 147 d
Page 207 and 208: The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 149 o
Page 209 and 210: The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 151 s
Page 211 and 212: CHAPTER XIV The Characteristics of
Page 213: The Characteristics of the Gamia 15
Page 217 and 218: iJIE HEART OF CAIRO. The old gate c
Page 219 and 220: I CHAPTER XV The Mosques of Cairo S
Page 221 and 222: The Mosques of Cairo i6i with mosqu
Page 223 and 224: The Mosques of Cairo 163 is to the
Page 225 and 226: The Mosques of Cairo 165 enter the
Page 227 and 228: The Mosques of Cairo 167 street. If
Page 229 and 230: The Mosques of Cairo 169 love its l
Page 231 and 232: a. 5' & > 3 5 n n -3 05 P a H o > H
Page 233 and 234: The Mosques of Cairo 171 panelling
Page 235 and 236: The Mosques of Cairo 173 Cardinal W
Page 237 and 238: The Mosques of Cairo 175 delicate i
Page 239 and 240: The Mosques of Cairo i77 arabesqued
Page 241 and 242: The Mosques of Cairo i79 open air i
Page 243 and 244: The Mosques of Cairo i8i outlined w
Page 245 and 246: The Mosques of Cairo 183 for regula
Page 247 and 248: CHAPTER XVI EI'Azhar, the Universit
Page 249 and 250: EI-'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
Page 251 and 252: EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
Page 253 and 254: EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
Page 255 and 256: CHAPTER XVII Old Cairo and the Wond
Page 257 and 258: Old Cairo i95 A few enterprising fo
Page 259 and 260: Old Cairo 197 minaret is sugared ov
Page 261 and 262: Old Cairo 199 The effect of this da
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THIS PICTUKIi SHOWS THE BURKA OR FA
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202 Oriental Cairo Behind this scre
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204 Oriental Cairo place guide taki
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2o6 Oriental Cairo Some of the anci
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2o8 Oriental Cairo The massacre too
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2IO Oriental Cairo gilt foolscap pu
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212 Oriental Cairo of Jacob was of
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CHAPTER XIX Concerning the Tombs of
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2i6 Oriental Cairo Individually, in
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2i8 Oriental Cairo of the palace of
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a. a
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2 20 Oriental Cairo " Then came the
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222 Oriental Cairo of the Saint of
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224 Oriental Cairo for their beauty
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226 Oriental Cairo noticed hardly a
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22 8 Oriental Cairo large rings of
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o /. := O ::: a C a H « g
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230 Oriental Cairo added something
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232 Oriental Cairo gay festoons of
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234 Oriental Cairo cessive sheykh o
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236 Oriental Cairo cuts up the part
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THE PROCESSION OF THE HOLY CARPET,
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238 Oriental Cairo are carried in a
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240 Oriental Cairo spectacle was wo
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242 Oriental Cairo malignant e)'es
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THE CHAPTER XXII The Ashura and its
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246 Oriental Cairo ciation of forei
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248 Oriental Cairo that Ramidge had
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250 Oriental Cairo I was disappoint
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252 Oriental Cairo the supposed inc
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THE RETURN' OF THE PILGRIM FROM MEC
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2 54 Oriental Cairo front, and bras
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2^6 Oriental Cairo houses were deco
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258 Oriental Cairo to take the plun
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26o Oriental Cairo presence was det
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262 Oriental Cairo listening to tha
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AS too crowded ; CHAPTER XXIV The M
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266 Oriental Cairo pride of the Mus
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268 Oriental Cairo and furniture of
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270 Oriental Cairo In the galleries
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CHAPTER XXV The Arab Hammam—A Cla
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274 Oriental Cairo The entrance is
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276 Oriental Cairo They smiled cour
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278 Oriental Cairo To the women, of
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IF CHAPTER XXVI Roda Island and Mos
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|ii(ti ti .mil m ^0 "^^ A (.uRM.K o
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2 82 Oriental Cairo the boxes had h
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284 Oriental Cairo to overhang the
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2 86 Oriental Cairo avarice, or caj
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288 OHental Cairo another officer i
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290 Oriental Cairo antiquity, since
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CHAPTER XXVI The Old Coptic Churche
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294 Oriental Cairo When we left the
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296 Oriental Cairo through more tha
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298 Oriental Cairo polite and cordi
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300 Oriental Cairo " Who is this Ki
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ROD-EL-FARAG CHAPTER XXVIII Rod^el'
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Rod^el^Faragf and Shubra 303 ostric
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Rod'-el'Farag and Shubra 305 vitali
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On the Humours of the Desert 307 ti
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On the Humours of the Desert 309 ho
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On the Humours of the Desert 3 1 by
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P- 312] THE SPHINX BETWEEN- THE FIR
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On the Pyramids 313 Falls of Niagar
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On the Pyramids 315 left the horse
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On the Pyramids 317 Cheops to the S
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On the Pyramids 319 a sort of bear-
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On the Pyramids 321 cannot hold the
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On the Pyramids 323 being which has
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OUR CHAPTER XXXI Sleeping at the Fe
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Sleeping at the Feet of the Sphinx
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Memphis; Tombs and Pyramids of Sakk
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13* o O s a o -i B o o > 2 C 71
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33 6 Oriental Cairo Behind the Pjra
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33^ Oriental Cairo feet high. There
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340 Oriental Cairo human touches Hk
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34^ Oriental Cairo at Heliopolis ca
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344 Oriental Cairo under the soil,
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34^ Oriental Cairo I bitterly regre
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CHAPTER XXXIV Helwan, the Week-end
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3S° Oriental Cairo wealthy, and th
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25'^ Appendix I for the same price.
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APPENDIX II Cairo was the Real Scen
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35^ Appendix II note by the same pe
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' 35^ Appendix II of the East ; nat
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360 Appendix II come across one of
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362 Appendix III known saint El-Gul
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364 Appendix III And there were oth
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366 Appendix III picturesque route
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APPENDIX IV Mr. Roosevelt's Speech
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370 Appendix IV " Your men in Afric
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372 Appendix IV such success. The i
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374 Appendix IV performing the task
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37^ Appendix IV you went into Egypt
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37 8 Rulers and Monuments of Mediae
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380 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
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382 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
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384 Index Baths, Arab women's, 278
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386 Index Gizeh paJace, 128 Gohar,
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1 388 Index Mosque tickets, 8g Mosq
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390 Index Sharia {covtinued) El-Klu
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PRINTED BV HAZELL, WATSON AND VINEY
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'iWA:;t-. ^smi'
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