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I A A SNAKE CHARMER. The saakeiii oiled in the santl just below his tambourine —doing nothing, a? usual. The audience is a little distrait. In the background arc the ramparts of tlic Citadel. [p. 29
A Drive Round Cairo 29 in its harem, often shown to strangers by the courtesy of its proprietor, a large hall with a tessellated marble pavement and walls, splendid inesJirebiyad windows, and about the best examples to be found in any domestic building of the fretted plaster-work windows set with little gems of coloured glass which are called kamariya. XXXIV. The Sights of the Citadel There are, of course, many things to see in the Citadel besides Mehemet Ali's Mosque and the view. There is, for example, the winding rock-girt lane between the Bab-el- Wastani and the Bab-el-Azab, which was the scene of the Massacre of the Mamelukes ; there is Joseph's Well, three hundred feet deep, which one set of archaeologists attribute to Saladin, whose name was Joseph, and who built the Citadel, and another set attribute to the Pharaohs ; there is the huge shell, noble in its decay, with its splendid colonnade, of the En-Nasir Mosque, which was the royal mosque of the Caliphs when they lived in the Citadel ; and there is the beautiful little mosque of Suleiman Pasha, the best sixteenth-century mosque in Cairo. There are also the Palace of the Khedives, a very shabby affair, and the massive ruins of the Palace of the great Saladin, destroyed to make way for the Palace and Mosque of the Khedives. And there is that inimitable view of the El-Giyuchi Mosque on the Mokattams above. Look long at that, because, as it rises far away and high, connected by ruinous stairways and causeways, it is a gaunt skeleton of the IMiddle Ages outlined against the desert and the sky, and it has twice sealed the fate of Cairo. Napoleon first, and Mohammed Ali afterwards, silenced the guns of the Citadel from its dominating height. XXXV. The El'Hilmiya and Ibn-Tulun Districts There is another very ancient quarter of Cairo, lying between the Sharia Mohammed Ali on the north and the Bab Ibn-Tulun on the south, the Citadel and the Place Moham-
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^4398^'
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SOME OF MR. DOUGLAS SLADEN'S BOOKS
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ORIENTAL CAIRO THE CITY OF THE ''AR
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DEDICATED, IN MEMORY OF DAYS SPENT
Page 14 and 15: VI 11 Preface wc have him in the st
Page 16 and 17: ^ CHAPTER Contents PAGE IV. THE APP
Page 18 and 19: ^" CHAPTKH Contents XXXII. MEMPHIS,
Page 20 and 21: '^^^ List of Illustrations FACING A
Page 22 and 23: xvi List of Illustrations FACING PA
Page 24 and 25: NATIVK liUa Ul Il!l. .MOKI". KIUIMC
Page 26 and 27: 2 Oriental Cairo After this I hope
Page 28 and 29: 4 Oriental Cairo that Cairo was inh
Page 30 and 31: I HE OCCITATION OF EGYPT SLEIil'INt
Page 32 and 33: 6 Oriental Cairo The minarets of El
Page 34 and 35: 8 Oriental Cairo On every side the
Page 36 and 37: CASTING iU.^ t-VE : A LITTLE COMEDY
Page 38 and 39: lo Oriental Cairo is followed by a
Page 40 and 41: 3 Q :n A Uj < -d ^ 'i < 1 S 5 _ i>
Page 42 and 43: 12 Oriental Cairo XXV. XXVI. XXVII.
Page 44 and 45: 14 Oriental Cairo drive along the f
Page 46 and 47: A GRAND JEWISH FUNERAL AT CAIRO (ll
Page 48 and 49: 1 6 Oriental Cairo V. The Sharia Mo
Page 50 and 51: 1 8 Oriental Cairo a splendid stret
Page 52 and 53: 20 Oriental Cairo XIV, The Beit-Gam
Page 54 and 55: BEDAWIN AT THE OIZUH MARKET. In fro
Page 56 and 57: 22 Oriental Cairo the right into th
Page 58 and 59: 24 Oriental Cairo ancient mosques w
Page 60 and 61: 26 Oriental Cairo tlic perpendicula
Page 62 and 63: 28 Oriental Cairo glare of an indes
Page 66 and 67: 30 Oriental Cairo med AH on the eas
Page 68 and 69: 32 Oriental Cairo several ways is t
Page 70 and 71: 34 Oriental Cairo drive round this
Page 72 and 73: 36 Oriental Cairo LII. The Mo'allak
Page 74 and 75: 3 8 Oriental Cairo the desert is th
Page 76 and 77: A SUA fc.K-AND-l\f>I
Page 78 and 79: 40 Oriental Cairo features and expr
Page 80 and 81: 42 Oriental Cairo Phoenixes in the
Page 82 and 83: FORAGE CAMEL X'Mr Ihfj |iii tiiri--
Page 84 and 85: 44 Oriental Cairo administration of
Page 86 and 87: 4^ Oriental Cairo dile on his head
Page 88 and 89: 48 Oriental Cairo smokinc^. While I
Page 90 and 91: WOMAN CARRYING A HUGE IRON CAULDRON
Page 92 and 93: 50 Oriental Cairo with the mere acc
Page 94 and 95: 52 Oriental Cairo are also much add
Page 96 and 97: THE CHAPTER III The Humours of the
Page 98 and 99: 56 Oriental Cairo restaurateurs and
Page 100 and 101: 58 Oriental Cairo stick of Edinburg
Page 102 and 103: m^Miiiiiif tit^wa illKI I. AKAb l.K
Page 104 and 105: 6o Oriental Cairo I have often phot
Page 106 and 107: 62 Oriental Cairo the man who canno
Page 108 and 109: CHAPTER IV The Approach to the Nati
Page 110 and 111: THE CORNER OF THE ATABA-RI.-KH AUK
Page 112 and 113: 66 Oriental Cairo out of doors, for
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68 Oriental Cairo cane-scllers and
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70 Oriental Cairo Soon you pass int
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CHAPTER V The Bazars of Cairo: the
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The Bazars of Cairo 73 mediasval ma
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The Bazars of Cairo 75 he will lose
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The Bazars of Cairo 77 Turkish town
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The Bazars of Cairo 79 who muzzle t
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The Bazars of Cairo When the typica
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The Bazars of Cairo 83 the broad Sh
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r c P8 c c v> R in C T) o B D > a 2
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THE CHAPTER VI Our Dragoman first t
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Our Dragoman 87 was very courageous
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Our Dragoman 89 the seventeenth cen
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Our Dragoman 91 street for us when
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Our Dragoman 93 ware he sold second
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How to Shop in Cairo 95 museum. The
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How to Shop in Cairo 97 your ancien
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How to Shop in Cairo 99 have fine o
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How to Shop in Cairo lor London, a
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How to Shop in Cairo 103 adjured, t
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A MARRIAGE PROCESSION', WITH THE HO
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How to Shop in Cairo 105 ing shopke
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How to Shop in Cairo 107 Except in
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Cairo at Night 109 and their huge f
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Cairo at Night 1 1 chairs that you
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Cairo at Night 113 spectacle late t
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p. ri4] AN EFFENDI HAVING HIS FORTU
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The Entertainments of the Arabs 115
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The Entertainments of the Arabs 117
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The -Entertainments of the Arabs 11
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CHAPTER X An Arab Bank Holiday: the
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^»ii!J' GREEKS DANCING I.\ THE GAR
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An Arab Bank Holiday: the Shem-en^N
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An Arab Bank Holiday: the Sheni'en'
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THE CHAPTER XI The Cairo Zoo Cairo
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The Cairo Zoo 129 be there without
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The Cairo Zoo 131 he adopted as he
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THE CHAPTER XII The Arab and Bedawi
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The Arab and Bedawin Markets of Cai
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WEST CHAPTER XIII The Old Arab Stre
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 143 h
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo HS on
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 147 d
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 149 o
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The Old Arab Streets of Cairo 151 s
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CHAPTER XIV The Characteristics of
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The Characteristics of the Gamia 15
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The Characteristics of the Gamia 15
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iJIE HEART OF CAIRO. The old gate c
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I CHAPTER XV The Mosques of Cairo S
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The Mosques of Cairo i6i with mosqu
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The Mosques of Cairo 163 is to the
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The Mosques of Cairo 165 enter the
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The Mosques of Cairo 167 street. If
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The Mosques of Cairo 169 love its l
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a. 5' & > 3 5 n n -3 05 P a H o > H
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The Mosques of Cairo 171 panelling
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The Mosques of Cairo 173 Cardinal W
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The Mosques of Cairo 175 delicate i
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The Mosques of Cairo i77 arabesqued
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The Mosques of Cairo i79 open air i
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The Mosques of Cairo i8i outlined w
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The Mosques of Cairo 183 for regula
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CHAPTER XVI EI'Azhar, the Universit
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EI-'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
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EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
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EI'Azhar, University of Mohammedan
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CHAPTER XVII Old Cairo and the Wond
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Old Cairo i95 A few enterprising fo
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Old Cairo 197 minaret is sugared ov
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Old Cairo 199 The effect of this da
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THIS PICTUKIi SHOWS THE BURKA OR FA
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202 Oriental Cairo Behind this scre
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204 Oriental Cairo place guide taki
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2o6 Oriental Cairo Some of the anci
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2o8 Oriental Cairo The massacre too
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2IO Oriental Cairo gilt foolscap pu
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212 Oriental Cairo of Jacob was of
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CHAPTER XIX Concerning the Tombs of
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2i6 Oriental Cairo Individually, in
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2i8 Oriental Cairo of the palace of
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a. a
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2 20 Oriental Cairo " Then came the
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222 Oriental Cairo of the Saint of
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224 Oriental Cairo for their beauty
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226 Oriental Cairo noticed hardly a
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22 8 Oriental Cairo large rings of
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o /. := O ::: a C a H « g
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230 Oriental Cairo added something
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232 Oriental Cairo gay festoons of
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234 Oriental Cairo cessive sheykh o
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236 Oriental Cairo cuts up the part
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THE PROCESSION OF THE HOLY CARPET,
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238 Oriental Cairo are carried in a
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240 Oriental Cairo spectacle was wo
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242 Oriental Cairo malignant e)'es
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THE CHAPTER XXII The Ashura and its
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246 Oriental Cairo ciation of forei
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248 Oriental Cairo that Ramidge had
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250 Oriental Cairo I was disappoint
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252 Oriental Cairo the supposed inc
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THE RETURN' OF THE PILGRIM FROM MEC
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2 54 Oriental Cairo front, and bras
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2^6 Oriental Cairo houses were deco
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258 Oriental Cairo to take the plun
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26o Oriental Cairo presence was det
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262 Oriental Cairo listening to tha
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AS too crowded ; CHAPTER XXIV The M
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266 Oriental Cairo pride of the Mus
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268 Oriental Cairo and furniture of
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270 Oriental Cairo In the galleries
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CHAPTER XXV The Arab Hammam—A Cla
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274 Oriental Cairo The entrance is
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276 Oriental Cairo They smiled cour
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278 Oriental Cairo To the women, of
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IF CHAPTER XXVI Roda Island and Mos
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|ii(ti ti .mil m ^0 "^^ A (.uRM.K o
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2 82 Oriental Cairo the boxes had h
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284 Oriental Cairo to overhang the
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2 86 Oriental Cairo avarice, or caj
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288 OHental Cairo another officer i
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290 Oriental Cairo antiquity, since
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CHAPTER XXVI The Old Coptic Churche
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294 Oriental Cairo When we left the
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296 Oriental Cairo through more tha
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298 Oriental Cairo polite and cordi
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300 Oriental Cairo " Who is this Ki
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ROD-EL-FARAG CHAPTER XXVIII Rod^el'
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Rod^el^Faragf and Shubra 303 ostric
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Rod'-el'Farag and Shubra 305 vitali
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On the Humours of the Desert 307 ti
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On the Humours of the Desert 309 ho
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On the Humours of the Desert 3 1 by
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P- 312] THE SPHINX BETWEEN- THE FIR
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On the Pyramids 313 Falls of Niagar
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On the Pyramids 315 left the horse
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On the Pyramids 317 Cheops to the S
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On the Pyramids 319 a sort of bear-
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On the Pyramids 321 cannot hold the
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On the Pyramids 323 being which has
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OUR CHAPTER XXXI Sleeping at the Fe
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Sleeping at the Feet of the Sphinx
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Memphis; Tombs and Pyramids of Sakk
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13* o O s a o -i B o o > 2 C 71
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33 6 Oriental Cairo Behind the Pjra
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33^ Oriental Cairo feet high. There
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340 Oriental Cairo human touches Hk
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34^ Oriental Cairo at Heliopolis ca
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344 Oriental Cairo under the soil,
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34^ Oriental Cairo I bitterly regre
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CHAPTER XXXIV Helwan, the Week-end
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3S° Oriental Cairo wealthy, and th
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25'^ Appendix I for the same price.
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APPENDIX II Cairo was the Real Scen
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35^ Appendix II note by the same pe
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' 35^ Appendix II of the East ; nat
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360 Appendix II come across one of
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362 Appendix III known saint El-Gul
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364 Appendix III And there were oth
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366 Appendix III picturesque route
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APPENDIX IV Mr. Roosevelt's Speech
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370 Appendix IV " Your men in Afric
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372 Appendix IV such success. The i
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374 Appendix IV performing the task
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37^ Appendix IV you went into Egypt
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37 8 Rulers and Monuments of Mediae
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380 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
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382 Rulers and Monuments of Mediaev
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384 Index Baths, Arab women's, 278
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386 Index Gizeh paJace, 128 Gohar,
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1 388 Index Mosque tickets, 8g Mosq
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390 Index Sharia {covtinued) El-Klu
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PRINTED BV HAZELL, WATSON AND VINEY
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'iWA:;t-. ^smi'
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