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Roda Island and Moses 283<br />

which was the Egyptian name of Heliopolis, really stood<br />

somewhere near the Roman Citadel, which at present bears<br />

the name, though the solitary obelisk which marks the site<br />

of Heliopolis is several miles away. Egyptians did things<br />

on a large scale : the temple enclosure of Karnak is a mile<br />

and a half round. But the Jews are supposed to have lived<br />

on the other side of Heliopolis, and the little ark to which<br />

the mother of Moses entrusted her goodly child, a boy,<br />

could not possibly have floated up-stream several miles<br />

against a current like the Nile's. Plausibility answers this<br />

argument by saying that the Israelites might have been<br />

building pyramids at Ghizeh for the Pharaoh. But it is<br />

hopeless to depend on facts in a case like this. Arabs make<br />

very good legends if you take them as they are, and do not<br />

subject them to unfair tests like these. Ebers for once is<br />

silent ; he has no suggestion to offer as to the site, no legend<br />

to spin. Lane-Poole is no more accommodating. One thing<br />

we have to be thankful for is that no attempt has been made<br />

in print by indiscreet Christians to connect the abandonment<br />

of Moses with the human sacrifice in a crazy boat, which<br />

used to be made to the Nile when it began to rise, at the<br />

point where the canal which flowed through Cairo till the other<br />

day, left the river. It was this sacrifice, it will be remembered,<br />

which formed one of the most striking incidents in Sir<br />

H. Beerbohm Tree's wonderful presentation of False Gods.<br />

And it was opposite this point that Moses is said to have<br />

been found.<br />

There is nothing that I regret more than not having seen<br />

Cairo in the days when the old canal flowed between the<br />

Arab city and the new city, on the line of the tramway<br />

which now crosses the Musky. A few of the old Mameluke<br />

mansions which towered over the rather pestiferous and<br />

mosquitiferous green waters with a riot of creepers and<br />

waving feathery palms still exist, with the entrances in the<br />

Sharia Es-Sureni. M. Bircher's, the best preserved Mameluke<br />

house in the city, is one of them. But they give no idea<br />

of the beauty of the stairways battered to picturesque decay,<br />

and the 7neshrebiya oriels, and pergola'd terraces, which used

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