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A Drive Round Cairo 23
the Bible, lolling about in sufficient numbers to give some
idea of the place to those who could not endure its shame-
lessness at night.
XXII. The Sitt* Safiya, El-Bordeini and Kesun Mosques
Drive on through the Ataba-el-Khadra and down the
Sharia Mohammed Ali as far as the corner of the Sharia Es-
Serugiya, after dismounting to walk up to the beautiful little
old mosque known as Sitt' Safiya, which has one of the most
picturesque situations in Cairo, at the top of a broad and high
flight of steps, which make a fine plinth for its cluster of little
domes. Be sure to go back and see this mosque afterwards,
for it is unlike any other in Cairo. Before you go back to
your carriage now walk a few yards farther to see the mosque
of El-Bordeini built in the style of Kait Bey's mosque
admirably restored, and considered the richest in its decora-
tions, and, by many also the most beautiful, of any mosque in
Cairo. It is in an ancient street called the Daudiya, which
contains the best Arab restaurant, but few old houses except
near the corner of the Sharia El-Magharbilin.
When you are back in your carriage driving down the
Sharia Mohammed Ali you will pass the great Kesun Mosque,
which one of Khedives cut in half to carry this street straight
through from the Ataba-el-Khadra to the Citadel. You need
not dismount to look at it, for he not only cut it in half
but restored it in what corresponds to our Early Victorian
taste.
XXIII. The Ancient Arab Streets. From the Sharia
Serugiya to the Tentmakers* Bazar
When your carriage turns into the Sharia Serugiya and its
continuations, the Sharia El-Magharbilin and the Sharia
Kasabet-Radowan, tell your cabman to drive slowly, for there is
something to see every minute, beginning with the Dervish
tekke near the corner of the Sharia Mohammed Ali. There
are other tekkcs of Dervishes ; there is an ancient fortified
gateway ; there is an old bath ; there is a succession of little