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CHAPTER II<br />

Street Life in Cairo as seen from the Continental<br />

Hotel<br />

CAIRO<br />

is a kodaker's paradise not quite so elastic as<br />

Omdurman. For in hot countries people are apt to<br />

carry on their occupations in the shade, and in Omdurman<br />

there is no shade, as the Khalifa would not allow any one<br />

to have a two-story house but himself.<br />

Fortunately, Cairo is full of wide sunny spaces, and the<br />

Arab always makes a shop of the street, so there is an<br />

immense amount of street life in full sunshine.<br />

There is one great advantage in staying at the Continental<br />

Hotel for the two or three months of the Cairo season<br />

you can see, without dressing to go out, the most roaring<br />

farce ever presented off the stage. The great hotel has a<br />

nice sunny terrace with a balustrade which looks out on<br />

the Street of the Camel—the Regent Street of Cairo—and<br />

the Eskebiya Gardens and a regular museum of touts.<br />

It is doubtful which could be satirised more successfully<br />

as a human Zoological Gardens, the people who sit on the<br />

terrace behind the railings, Americans chiefly, with a strong<br />

dash of Jews, Turks, and Infidels, which last name the<br />

Mohammedan applies to the Levantine with singular felicity<br />

—or the extraordinary collection, of parasites in the street<br />

below.<br />

Those of the parasites, who are not dragomans have<br />

something to sell, generally something that no sane person<br />

would want to buy.<br />

The street Arab who walks about with a stuffed croco-<br />

45<br />

:

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