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Narcissus and Daffodil

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68 G.R. Hanks<br />

(as well as natural erosion) on sloping sites can move pesticide residues into watercourses.<br />

Concentration of pesticides has been recorded in colluvium <strong>and</strong> in the<br />

sediment of surface pools where the watertable was high (Harrod et al., 1991;<br />

Harrod <strong>and</strong> Rickson, 1994).<br />

Soil<br />

Silts or very fine s<strong>and</strong>y loams are ideal for narcissus growing. In the UK, bulbs are<br />

grown successfully on a variety of silt, silt loam, brick-earth <strong>and</strong> peat soils. In the<br />

Netherl<strong>and</strong>s, narcissus were traditionally grown in s<strong>and</strong>y soil <strong>and</strong> it was once<br />

considered that bulb quality could not be maintained on heavy silt clay soils<br />

(de Vroomen <strong>and</strong> de Groot, 1991). However, they are now grown on the heavier<br />

polders, factors involved including the pressure on prime agricultural l<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong><br />

the need, on s<strong>and</strong>y soils with a high water content, to practice regular soil sterilisation<br />

to control nematodes. There have been few comparisons of growth in different<br />

soil types, although Szlachetka (1976) reported better narcissus growth in light<br />

black-earth soils than in heavy alluvial soils. It has been reported that narcissus<br />

bulbs were larger <strong>and</strong> more susceptible to base rot when grown on peat, rather<br />

than mineral, soils (ADAS, 1982a).<br />

According to ADAS (1985a), bulb soils should be deep, fertile, well drained<br />

<strong>and</strong> moisture retentive (water holding capacity >40 mm per 300 mm depth),<br />

while the level of organic matter should be >3% <strong>and</strong> the pH value should generally<br />

be between 6.0 <strong>and</strong> 7.5. In the bulb growing areas of eastern Engl<strong>and</strong>,<br />

typical mineral soils have 2.5–3.0% organic matter, while peat soils may have up<br />

to 25% (J.B. Briggs, personal communication). Weed control is difficult in highly<br />

organic soils. <strong>Narcissus</strong> bulbs are susceptible to poor growth due to compaction<br />

(De Haan <strong>and</strong> van der Valk, 1971). Although the observed root spread of narcissus<br />

was similar in different soil types, it was low in comparison with tulips, so a<br />

good soil structure is needed (Rees, 1972). Heavy soils, stones <strong>and</strong> clods can<br />

damage bulbs <strong>and</strong> make lifting difficult, requiring the use of stone <strong>and</strong> clod<br />

removers. In ‘sticky’ soils it may be difficult to produce soil-free bulbs unless<br />

bulbs are washed, a process which spreads diseases <strong>and</strong> creates disposal problems<br />

(ADAS, 1987).<br />

Crop rotation <strong>and</strong> site history<br />

Crop rotation should aim to maintain a good soil structure <strong>and</strong> reduce pest,<br />

disease <strong>and</strong> weed problems. Leys, peas, barley or early potatoes often form part<br />

of the rotation with narcissus. Preceding crops leaving a high residue (e.g., cauliflowers)<br />

should be avoided, as high levels of soil nitrogen may encourage basal rot<br />

(Hanks et al., 1998a). Rotations should allow adequate time for soil preparation<br />

before bulb planting. <strong>Narcissus</strong> should not follow crops treated with sulphonylurea<br />

herbicides, which can cause morphological damage (Greenfield, 1987). With<br />

‘two-year-down’ growing, foliar fungal diseases generally become a problem in the<br />

second year, so first- <strong>and</strong> second-year narcissus crops should not be planted adjacent<br />

to each other (Melville, 1980).<br />

At least four years should elapse between growing narcissus in a rotation, or<br />

six years where stem nematode has been found. In s<strong>and</strong>y soils, deep ploughing

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