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Daily Life of the Ancient Greeks

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Private <strong>Life</strong> 139<br />

Men<br />

The simplest male attire was a tunic a bit shorter than knee<br />

length. Known as an exômis, which means “<strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> shoulder,” it<br />

was held in place by means <strong>of</strong> a brooch or knot tied at <strong>the</strong> shoulder.<br />

It was commonly worn by manual workers, including slaves,<br />

though, in <strong>the</strong> fifth century, <strong>the</strong> Spartans adopted it as a military<br />

tunic. On formal occasions, men wore a chitôn, similar to women.<br />

Ano<strong>the</strong>r popular garment was <strong>the</strong> himation, which was considerably<br />

longer than <strong>the</strong> chitôn and worn ei<strong>the</strong>r on top <strong>of</strong> it or without<br />

any undergarment. This was a rectangular piece <strong>of</strong> cloth that<br />

was generally wound over <strong>the</strong> left shoulder and under <strong>the</strong> right,<br />

with <strong>the</strong> surplus material hanging over <strong>the</strong> left forearm. There was<br />

practically no limit to <strong>the</strong> different ways <strong>of</strong> attaching it to <strong>the</strong> body,<br />

however. Himatia were <strong>of</strong>ten dyed and embroidered with a patterned<br />

border. In vase paintings and sculpture, those wearing a<br />

himation are <strong>of</strong>ten depicted leaning on a stick, which suggests that<br />

it was favored by older men. (Women also wore himatia, usually<br />

draping <strong>the</strong>m over <strong>the</strong> right shoulder and under <strong>the</strong> left arm in <strong>the</strong><br />

same way as men.) Ano<strong>the</strong>r outer garment was <strong>the</strong> chlamys, which<br />

was also rectangular but shorter than a himation and commonly<br />

worn by travelers.<br />

Men did not usually wear underwear. An article known as a<br />

perizôma, which roughly translates as “loincloth,” seems to have<br />

served mainly as an apron that was used by athletes, priests, soldiers,<br />

cooks, and o<strong>the</strong>rs.<br />

There is some evidence to suggest that, in <strong>the</strong> Classical Period,<br />

<strong>the</strong> clothing worn by A<strong>the</strong>nian men became simpler and less ornate<br />

than it had been in <strong>the</strong> Archaic Period. According to Thukydides,<br />

“The Spartans were <strong>the</strong> first to adopt a moderate costume . . . and<br />

in o<strong>the</strong>r respects, too, <strong>the</strong> propertied class [<strong>of</strong> A<strong>the</strong>ns] changed<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir way <strong>of</strong> life to correspond as closely as possible to that <strong>of</strong> ordinary<br />

men” (1.6.4). As we have seen, some A<strong>the</strong>nians, known as<br />

Lakonizers, aped <strong>the</strong> Spartan dress code by wearing long hair and<br />

paying little attention to <strong>the</strong>ir personal hygiene.<br />

Hairstyles<br />

Women wore <strong>the</strong>ir hair long in a variety <strong>of</strong> styles. Some plaited it<br />

in tresses, o<strong>the</strong>rs piled it up in a bun ei<strong>the</strong>r at <strong>the</strong> nape <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> neck or<br />

on top <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> head. Head scarves were also commonplace, covering<br />

part or all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hair. A<strong>the</strong>nian women only “let <strong>the</strong>ir hair down”—<br />

literally—on special occasions, notably at festivals and funerals.

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