Through the Eras

FashionPair of corrugated hoops. BROOKLYN MUSEUM OF ART, 72.123A-B, CHARLES EDWIN WILBOUR FUND. REPRODUCED BY PERMISSION.symbol of eternal life, or a simple drop-shaped bead. Theshenu collar used similar tube-shaped beads in alternatingsegments strung vertically and horizontally. Both collarswere symmetrical, a general characteristic of Egyptianjewelry. They both also used the larger beads in the centerand gradually reduce the size of the beads toward theedges, as well as terminals to gather the stringing of thebeads. Finally they both used counterweights worn towardthe back that relieved the weight of the necklace onthe neck. The menat or counterweight also made it possiblefor the beaded collar to lie properly at the neck. Themenat thus became a symbol of stability.PECTORALS. Simple beads on a string around theneck developed into both collars and chest ornamentscalled pectorals. A pectoral is a piece of jewelry that hangsover the chest. The first pectorals were pendants withthe name of the king inscribed on them. They were madefrom precious metals often inlaid with semi-preciousstones. Some examples were shaped like a shrine withthe king’s name in a cartouche in the center. In the NewKingdom, pectorals often substituted a scarab for theking’s name. The scarab beetle was a symbol of the sungod.These scarab-beetle pectorals were worn only bymummies, not living people.ARM/LEG ORNAMENTS. The Egyptians wore armletson their upper arms and bracelets on their forearmsand anklets around their ankles. Both men andwomen wore armlets, bracelets, and anklets. All threecould be either flexible or rigid. The flexible armlets,bracelets, and anklets were made from beads, while therigid type is called a bangle, made from elephant ivoryor precious metal. Bracelets were popular in both theOld and Middle Kingdoms. Armlets came into fashiononly in the New Kingdom. Among the most famoussets of bracelets were the thirteen worn byTutankhamun’s mummy. They were made from goldwith inlays of precious stones. They included protectivesymbolism such as the vulture, the Eye of Horusthat could represent healing, and the scarab beetle representingthe sun god. Anklets are indistinguishablefrom bracelets. They can be either made from beadsor can be rigid bangles made with a hinge. It wouldnot be possible to pass a rigid bangle over the entirefoot to reach the ankle. Thus they were made withhinges that allowed them to open. There are many representationsof men and women wearing anklets, butthey can only be recognized when a mummy is wearingone. Tutankhamun’s anklet, for example, looks exactlylike a bracelet. Yet because it was discoveredaround his ankle, its true purpose is known.JEWELERS. Jewelers were represented in tombpaintings, relief, and on stelae. Tomb representations108 Arts and Humanities Through the Eras: Ancient Egypt (2675 B.C.E.–332 B.C.E.)