"Rost, tonight we have a feast," he announced <strong>and</strong> busied himself in the kitchen. He was an excellent cook, <strong>and</strong> thesedinners were true occasions. Leist could easily empty two bottles of wine but never appeared drunk. After dinner Leistwould tell of his many adventures in the Orient. Whether they were all true was of no concern, they were always well told.One morning, made curious by the tales he had heard in St. Petersburg, <strong>Konrad</strong> ventured into town. He scrambled downthe steep cobblestone lanes to Golovinsky Boulevard, the main thoroughfare of the Russian quarter. Passing the turretednew opera house, the tree-shaded but dusty Alex<strong>and</strong>er Garden, <strong>and</strong> the ostentatious columns of the Palace of theRussian Viceroy he reached Yerevan Square, the center of the modern town.Unsure of where to continue, he chose a narrow street in the direction of the river <strong>and</strong> found himself in the crowdedstreets of the bazaar. Throngs of colorful, woolly people jammed the narrow lanes. The entire Orient was present, abewildering Babel of races, faiths, <strong>and</strong> languages.Soon <strong>Konrad</strong> was trailed by an aggressive horde of street urchins who, barefoot <strong>and</strong> ragged, pulled at his clothes <strong>and</strong>begged for money. He stopped <strong>and</strong> tried to shoo them off, but they only laughed. The angrier he got, the worse theytaunted him in languages he could not underst<strong>and</strong>.Obviously this was the wrong method to rid himself of his tormentors. As he stood beleaguered by the children, a kinto, ahawker carrying a fruit basket on his head, rescued him by telling the children to back off. As the man came closer hewhispered with a sweetish leer, "Mister, gogonebi ginda?" <strong>and</strong> repeating in Russian, because <strong>Konrad</strong> did not underst<strong>and</strong>,"You want girls, mister? Beautiful girls!"<strong>Konrad</strong> went purple <strong>and</strong> tried to shake off the pimp, at which the joker shouted at the top of his voice, "Look people, avirgin, he doesn’t know where to put his cock!"The kinto paused <strong>and</strong> surveyed the people who had assembled in expectation of good entertainment, <strong>and</strong> in a low,poisonous voice continued, "Or is he a pederast? He looks so elegant." And raising his voice: "Little boys, mister? Wehave those too, fat little boys, very willing <strong>and</strong> experienced suckers. Only a ruble an hour!"The crowd laughed uproariously, <strong>and</strong> <strong>Konrad</strong> would have liked to vanish into the ground.Fortunately, a troop of walking bushes came galloping down the narrow lane, donkeys hidden under huge loads of greenbranches. Everybody scrambled for safety in the nearest doorways. At the very last moment <strong>Konrad</strong> squeezed into a rugmerchant’s stall <strong>and</strong> found himself face-to-face with the elegant gentleman from their trip across the mountains. Theman, with whom he had not spoken a word on their journey, now looked like his savior. With clear comprehension thatfortune had sent him a potential customer, the clever man welcomed <strong>Konrad</strong> with a smile <strong>and</strong> made him sit down.Much relieved, <strong>Konrad</strong> told him of his misfortunes. The man laughed <strong>and</strong> advised him to learn a few swear words inGeorgian to get rid of the kintonebi. Against the urchins there was little he could do but ignore them.A boy was sent off to fetch coffee. He returned with small cups of a thick, black brew on a brass tablet. The rug dealerintroduced <strong>Konrad</strong> to the owner of the shop, a heavy-set, older Persian wearing a white prayer cap on his bald head.While <strong>Konrad</strong> slurped the over-sweetened coffee, the merchant had one beautiful rug after another rolled out before him.The man was very good at his business. He never suggested that <strong>Konrad</strong> buy a rug, nor did he mention money.Intrigued by the beauty of the pieces at his feet <strong>Konrad</strong> considered purchasing one of the Caucasian wonders. But hehad left his money at home—in order to not have it stolen by a pick-pocket. So when the talk finally turned to prices,<strong>Konrad</strong> with an honest, innocent face confessed that he was penniless. The rug merchants thought this to be the bestruse in a long time, <strong>and</strong> only relented when <strong>Konrad</strong> turned his pockets inside out. Promising another visit soon, he leftwith an excellent education in Caucasian rugs.The kinto was gone <strong>and</strong> the urchins had found another victim. <strong>Konrad</strong> followed two porters, each carrying a heavywardrobe on his back. Their dirty skullcaps, long caftans, <strong>and</strong> cheap, string s<strong>and</strong>als showed them to be Azeri from thelowest class. Running in a short, rhythmic trot, bent over to almost a right angle, they were followed by an older Armenianbusinessman, apparently the owner of the furniture, who trotted, breathlessly, behind them.Other porters carried wine in sheepskins that stretched their four amputated legs pitifully into the air.This street was entirely occupied by rug merchants. Around the corner the furniture makers had their shops; then came ablock of tinsmiths hammering away at anything from locks <strong>and</strong> knives to chain mail, copper pots, brass tables, <strong>and</strong> waterpitchers.As he neared the river, the filth <strong>and</strong> dirt in the streets got worse. In open st<strong>and</strong>s butchers <strong>and</strong> fishmongers displayed theirwares covered by thick swarms of flies. From the basements of the houses wafted the acrid smell of the wine shops. Thestench was overpowering. He was glad to escape from the confinement of the narrow lanes onto the s<strong>and</strong>y flood banksof the Kura.At a place further upstream he spied caravans of Bactrian camels being unloaded. From a distance the scene lookedexotic, but as he got closer a fierce camel snapped at him <strong>and</strong> he fled.Late that night, <strong>Konrad</strong>, with mixed feelings of horror, embarrassment, <strong>and</strong> fascination, described his adventures.Leist stroked his beard pretending to be in deep thought, but his mischievous eyes were laughing. "Rost, you were trulylucky. That rug dealer would have robbed you blind, had he seen your money. What foresight to leave your purse athome!""The rugs they showed me were truly beautiful <strong>and</strong> well made. I do know a little about oriental rugs." <strong>Konrad</strong> said miffed.10
"But you know nothing about how to buy one in this environment. However, congratulations, you made a very elegantopening move. They, of course, thought you were bluffing. On your next visit they will treat you with high respect, <strong>and</strong>when you have finally bargained the price of your favorite beauty down to what you are willing to pay, they will see youoff with tears in their eyes. No matter how cheap you think you bought it, these rogues have made at least a sixty percentprofit."Leist scratched his head <strong>and</strong> put on a serious mien. "You see, in principle, bargaining is easy. Depending on whether themerchant looks honest or not, you offer half to one-third of the asking price. It is a game, <strong>and</strong> the longer you draw out thedrama, the happier everyone will be. The clever acting of the players in this drama distinguishes a good bargain from abad one."Two days later, as they shared a droshki on the way to the faculty banquet in Ortachala, Leist said, "For me Ortachala isan ominous place. Everybody considers this village the locale to have fun, eat <strong>and</strong> drink, <strong>and</strong> to cavort with the girls, whoare a little notorious but no worse than elsewhere."Leist’s seriousness was not a put-on; there was apprehension in his voice as he continued. "Every time I come here thedead rise from the ground <strong>and</strong> affect my emotional balance. Until 1864 Cherkesses, Yezidi, <strong>and</strong> other Muslim minoritiesused to live here. In that year the Christian Russians chased the Cherkesses en masse to Turkey. For years the placewas deserted. Eventually the Tiflis pleasure girls <strong>and</strong> brothels moved into the haunted houses. I can never completelyshake off visions of the beautiful Circassian women who once lived here." He shuddered with an embarrassed laugh.The rural area of orchards <strong>and</strong> vegetable gardens on the banks of the Kura was lovely. Among the gardens nestled anumber of wooden houses surrounded by balconies <strong>and</strong> long tables where entire families in their colorful Sunday bestwere eating, singing, <strong>and</strong> drinking the good wine that flowed freely from skins the size of calves. A spigot had beenmounted in one of their legs. Wine spurted from them like fountains.The three phaetons came to a halt at the Eldorado Gardens. A lively b<strong>and</strong> of three wild-looking musicians received them,wearing peaked caps, rugged coats over narrow pants, <strong>and</strong> soft, strangely curved, pointed boots. They played two highclarinets <strong>and</strong> a small drum.Laughing <strong>and</strong> joking, the serious professors complimented each other from their carriages. A full-bosomed hostessreceived each of them with three kisses <strong>and</strong> led them to their table under a mighty apple tree.<strong>Konrad</strong> had heard much about the gr<strong>and</strong>es tables of Georgia, but this scene exceeded his imagination. On a white tablecloth two dozen platters with food he did not recognize had been arranged around the pièce de résistance, a gaudilydressed, roasted suckling pig, with protruding red cherry eyes, a glazed apple between its teeth, <strong>and</strong> a garl<strong>and</strong> of ediblegreens <strong>and</strong> flowers. Young boys brought plates piled high with wheels of flatbread <strong>and</strong> airy squares of cheese-filledpastry. A battery of bottles, raki, wine, <strong>and</strong> mineral water rose from among these culinary riches.With much bantering, a white-haired gentleman with penetrating blue eyes, an aristocratic nose, <strong>and</strong> a h<strong>and</strong>lebarmustache was elected tamada, toastmaster <strong>and</strong> head of the table. Leist introduced him as Prince Irakli Dadiani,professor <strong>and</strong> head of the Georgian literature department at the Gymnasium. The congenial man greeted <strong>Konrad</strong> influent German.<strong>Konrad</strong> sat between Leist <strong>and</strong> Dadiani, who raised his glass <strong>and</strong> offered a long <strong>and</strong> well-worded toast in Germanculminating in the wish that <strong>Konrad</strong> would come to love Georgia as much as Leist did. Leist smiled pleased <strong>and</strong> clinkedglasses with <strong>Konrad</strong> shouting: "Gagimadjos Sakartvelo! Long live Georgia!"<strong>Konrad</strong> made a short, serious speech. He thanked them for their hospitality <strong>and</strong> gregariousness <strong>and</strong> then, feeling that hewas too heavy-h<strong>and</strong>ed for the prevailing mood, he toasted the beautiful Georgian women he hoped soon to meet. Hehad hit on the right subject <strong>and</strong> was applauded enthusiastically.The next toasts cheerfully commemorated all women dead or alive who were absent at their gathering, their mothers,daughters, <strong>and</strong> sisters with a considerate mention of <strong>Konrad</strong>’s mother.After this emotional passage, Dadiani, with everybody’s advice, filled <strong>Konrad</strong>’s plate with helpings of the various dishes: asquare of khachapuri, a cheese pastry, cold chicken in walnut sauce, carrots filled with walnut farce, two kinds of fish withvarious herb-laced sauces, spinach laced with walnut puree <strong>and</strong> pomegranate seeds, aromatic Georgian greens, eatenraw without a dressing, <strong>and</strong> a generous cut of the crisp suckling pig served with a spicy red sauce sprinkled withpomegranate seeds. <strong>Konrad</strong>, who had imagined the Georgian kitchen to be highly spiced, was surprised by the delicate<strong>and</strong> sophisticated flavors.They started around five o’clock. By eight spontaneous singing erupted. The professors’ voices were surprisingly good.The tamada would sing a verse <strong>and</strong> the others join in the refrain. The pentatonic melodies sounded strangelymelancholic <strong>and</strong> doleful to <strong>Konrad</strong>’s ears.Overcome by all the good drink <strong>and</strong> the heavy walnut preparations <strong>Konrad</strong> excused himself. Behind a wall he found astinking, abysmal row of dirty holes in the ground over which squatted three other guests. Disgusted, he urinated in theprivacy of the dark orchard.An overpowering desire for sleep made him lie down under a nearby tree.An hour later Leist found him there. "Mein Gott, Rost what are you doing here!" shouted Leist shaking <strong>Konrad</strong>. A11
- Page 3 and 4: Table of Contents1. My Grandfather'
- Page 5 and 6: 1.My Grandfather's Watch among the
- Page 7 and 8: ditch beside the road.Mother was tr
- Page 9: Deep snow still covered Djvari Pass
- Page 13 and 14: newborn baby! You won’t need a ba
- Page 15 and 16: Dadiani bent over the table, reache
- Page 17 and 18: Autumn had come to Georgia, and it
- Page 19 and 20: "Gespenstisch!" whispered Mouravi t
- Page 21 and 22: Finally, depressed by his inability
- Page 23 and 24: They slowly rode up the hill north
- Page 25 and 26: On their way back to the Lavra Alex
- Page 27 and 28: Blushing like a young girl, she gav
- Page 29 and 30: Alexandra bowed deeply to a middle-
- Page 31 and 32: All applauded and Ilia made a small
- Page 33 and 34: She had done her hair up in a new w
- Page 35 and 36: ape her. But then he must die, and
- Page 37 and 38: a rear door when she entered.If Per
- Page 39 and 40: Alexandra went purple with embarras
- Page 41 and 42: The smell of roasting lamb wafted t
- Page 43 and 44: Konrad quietly sat back. To his gre
- Page 45 and 46: The tall, dark-haired woman began w
- Page 47 and 48: She kissed him."Maybe you dream of
- Page 49 and 50: 14.Tuscany - the Wolfsons' House in
- Page 51 and 52: ut are, unjustly, much more famous.
- Page 53 and 54: Alexandra had fallen into melanchol
- Page 55 and 56: She kissed him tenderly. "Niko, I a
- Page 57 and 58: obligations, and she, ever since th
- Page 59 and 60: months, was flooded with the diffus
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could they be aroused into communal
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19.An unexpected encounter with Vla
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chauffeur drop me at the station ju
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She described her sensation of flyi
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sky a thin, transparent blue. Imbed
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interest in Theosophy."Marti shrugg
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to?Mother had never mentioned any d
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"Ah, of course, of course, ‘Eine
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Konrad agreed that this sounded mor
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patriarchal oak and smiled, a littl
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have a similar situation in our vil
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Alexandra disagreed. "Most abortive
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a limited edition, hand-screened ma
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Alexandra touched her necklace and
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close!"She had hugged him, tears ru
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The others came lumbering up the st
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urden the heart with this task, whi
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the colors mixed and changed depend
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28.Kandinsky's suprising confession
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With kisses Alexandra removed the v
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He knelt, removed her knee and leg
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Joachim viewed Konrad with sympathe
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The rumbling continued at regular i
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Russia."She picked up a piece of br
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conservative pessimism, demanded th
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preventative method and taking it e
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new provocation in modern music and
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exhausted the Renaissance idea of b
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creative clairvoyance, and her shar
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Left to herself, Alexandra, awed, w
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public. She fended off the fuzzy wo
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ailways on strike. The strike had t
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Grandfather was very sad when he fo
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and put on his coat and shoes, he r
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Alexandra not in the mood to give V
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crowd of the fashionable and the ma
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established tradition with some mil
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42.Uncle Muravi's Benz, Tiflis1907"
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equisitioned a locomotive to take t
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meaningless rituals. That may be on
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lacking. I like this man, and at th
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are suitably ambiguous."45.The Dadi
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think of Munich or something else p
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He showed them the room where they
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death."Alexandra was more intereste
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they fought over the offering. The
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flew off cawing.Claudia grabbed Ale
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Together they were hedging out a pl
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the right of women to own their bod
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The Chinese wife of a sinologist at
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these texts."However, Ch'an is the
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times, but moved back together agai
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survived the Bolsheviks, the Fascis
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physically overwhelm her. Despite h
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Konrad picked up Alexandra at the t
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Abruptly her vision had narrowed, a
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the Kwadjagani, the Masters of Wisd
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somewhat, his back was still bent,
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century. The characteristic Chinese
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Alexandra was relieved and happy, a
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subconscious past her observant min
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Dahl leaned back in surprise. "This
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visions reappear. Entire armies mar
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"This method is not easy, I have ne
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He had started with representationa
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His hair had turned completely whit
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Overnight the mood in St. Petersbur
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daughter. His wife had left him no
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which was presented to him—with a
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"From the soldiers whom I took care
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He watched Alexandra’s doubting m
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lond, bony girl whose gray eyes loo
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call it intellectual humanism. It d
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time I asked this question I had me
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"I spent most of the winter of 1918
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We buried him in the cemetery at G
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ways. Corruption became the way of
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68.A Concert in Kreuth - Eliso1989I
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Eliso listened with increasing fasc