Alex<strong>and</strong>ra felt that she could h<strong>and</strong>le Gocha. "Let me ride up to Adishi <strong>and</strong> talk to her, she did not seem unreasonable tome, <strong>and</strong> she sure underst<strong>and</strong>s what a boost to her reputation this clinic could provide. I would anyway like to find outmore about her pharmacology <strong>and</strong> her life with that khevisberi."Alex<strong>and</strong>ra discussed the issue with the natsvali. He nodded <strong>and</strong> agreed that as long as Alex<strong>and</strong>ra diagnosed the patients<strong>and</strong> dispensed Gocha’s medicines, nobody should have cause to fear Gocha’s ‘spells’ or ‘evil eye.’He struck the pose of an enlightened, modern man who is in control of his community. "You go up to Adishi tomorrow<strong>and</strong> I will take care of the matter. After all, you are providing us with a much needed service free of charge. We should beable to resolve our own problems <strong>and</strong> superstitions. There is no problem in your spending another few days at myhouse."The dinner feast became a gr<strong>and</strong> affair, bread baked in their own t<strong>and</strong>ori or tonne-oven, aubergines <strong>and</strong> carrots filledwith nut-meat, chicken served with hot sauce, <strong>and</strong> as the pièce-de-résistance a fabulously crisp suckling pig with cherryeyes <strong>and</strong> an apple in its mouth. Only the wine was poor, but grapes did not grow up here. Instead they were offered adangerous, clear raki. They slept on large rugs with the entire family in the living room, covered by furs, warm <strong>and</strong>comfortable.Gocha received Alex<strong>and</strong>ra <strong>and</strong> Claudia with a chuckle. She had, of course, already heard the entire story. ShalvaMgeliani, Son-of-a-Wolf, her husb<strong>and</strong>, a taciturn, old, weathered man with one, single, yellowed tooth, rummaged in thebackground. This was women’s business not his.Niko whom Alex<strong>and</strong>ra had asked to come along to satisfy local etiquette—Tamara, <strong>Konrad</strong>, <strong>and</strong> Vladimir had gone on aride exploring the old churches in the valley—joined Shalva, who took him outside to show him the raki still he operated<strong>and</strong> the implements for brewing barley beer, which was used at the local festivals. A dozen sheep cheeses sown intoskins were piled into the rear of the cellar.The raki still was a quixotic apparatus, a simple copper bulb with a long snout, such as the alchemists used, on a stonefireplace, a long inclined tube in running cold water, <strong>and</strong> a cooled copper bucket into which the raki dripped. Shalvaexplained that he repeated the distillation three times, between which the distillate was left sitting over charcoal for a day,"to take out the poison."He offered Niko a small glass who poured it down <strong>and</strong> shook himself, it was pure firewater! Shalva was pleased.The even more primitive beer "factory" consisted of several large, wooden mash containers for the barley <strong>and</strong> a kettle toferment the beer in, but it was not in operation.Shalva mumbled <strong>and</strong> hissed in his rough dialect because of his missing teeth. "The beer has to be fresh for the festival. Itis like ‘holy water’ <strong>and</strong> ‘wine’ in church—only there is always enough <strong>and</strong> everybody gets drunk." He snapped his fingerat his conjugal vein <strong>and</strong> giggled.Niko could hardly underst<strong>and</strong> him, but his gestures were unmistakable. Shalva pulled his flat h<strong>and</strong> across his throat. "Ialso kill the sacrificial rams. When the priest is not looking." He made an obscene sign with his fingers. "I burn an oldsecret mark into the wool of the rams. They are always the best when roasted. Roosters?" A dismissive gesture. "Oh,only the poorest people sacrifice roosters. I get very little for blessing them."Meanwhile Alex<strong>and</strong>ra interrogated Gocha about the rules of her marriage."I am not married to Shalva," chortled Gocha, "certainly not in church. We live together. I wash his laundry <strong>and</strong> cook thespecial foods he needs to stay pure. During the winter, when I cannot find any herbs up here I go down to my village nearLentekhi, <strong>and</strong> he stays alone."She squinted at Alex<strong>and</strong>ra, her big, dark eyes nearly disappeared in the surrounding folds <strong>and</strong> wrinkles."They say, you married a foreigner from a far away country. It is like that with me up here, they will never accept me."She cackled indignantly. "They say I am a witch who puts spells on them, where all I do is keep the evil spirits away fromtheir houses—as long as they pay me for it. You know, there are many evil spirits up here who can make people sick oreven kill them."She pouted her small round mouth <strong>and</strong> opened her beautiful Byzantine eyes wide. She must have been a beguilingbeauty as a young girl."Last year," said Gocha, "a young girl came home from school in Tbilisi. She had walked up <strong>and</strong> was exhausted whenshe arrived. Her mother angrily screamed at her because of her foreign looks. You know, lipstick, perfume, <strong>and</strong> a reallyoutrageous hairdo. Overheated, the girl drank from the brook at her mother’s house <strong>and</strong> got very sick. She died a fewdays later with terrible cramps. They should have called me to purify the water. The water spirits were badly offended bythat fight between mother <strong>and</strong> daughter, which destroyed the harmony of the house."She crossed herself from right to left. "The priest could not do anything, he knows nothing, <strong>and</strong> we don’t have a doctorlike you up here. Shalva tried to drive out the evil spirits, but she was already too weak for that. All that Shalva could dowas to call the spirit of the dead girl before the priest buried her, Christian fashion. Later Shalva called her soul back topacify her. It was very sad, the girl came from a rich family."Claudia’s eyes grew large when Alex<strong>and</strong>ra translated the story. "So she is a real Hexe, a witch?""Well, it depends on what kind of theory you use to explain illness. We suspect bacteria in the water, <strong>and</strong> they see thespiritual damage done by that fight between mother <strong>and</strong> daughter. In the end both may have contributed to the girl’s148
death."Alex<strong>and</strong>ra was more interested in Shalva’s spirit-calling procedure. But Gocha refused to talk. This was his work, only hewas allowed to deal with the dead."He will hold a soul-of-the-dead calling session in a house in Ipari in a couple of days, maybe he will let you watch it. Youhave to ask him.""So you are not married <strong>and</strong> have no children with him, right?"Gocha almost coyly explained. "No, doctor Alex<strong>and</strong>ra, this is not the reason. We don’t sleep together, only on one day inthe month may we ‘birdie.’ A jadukali must not get pregnant. She could not pick herbs, if she became pregnant, theywould turn bad in her h<strong>and</strong>s. I am also too old to have children."Alex<strong>and</strong>ra changed the direction of her inquiry <strong>and</strong> asked Gocha about herbs to prevent pregnancies.Gocha’s dark eyes grew small. "Oh, there are many, but some are dangerous," she said evasively. "What would you liketo do, prevent the conception of a child or get rid of one?"Alex<strong>and</strong>ra tried to assuage her suspicion by telling her about the many women among the working class who had alreadytoo many children <strong>and</strong> could not afford to have more.Gocha, completely unmoved by the social dilemma, squinted cunningly at Alex<strong>and</strong>ra. "I don’t give away these recipes.These medicines are really good business. A pregnant woman will pay anything to get rid of an unwanted baby. Butbecause you have done me a favor, I will give you a bag of tea to abort a baby with <strong>and</strong> tell you how to use it."The tea was a similar mixture to the one Alex<strong>and</strong>ra had used a couple of times. Alex<strong>and</strong>ra described her concoction.Gocha sized up Alex<strong>and</strong>ra. "You are clever, you know something about these things. This is a good mixture, where didyou learn about it?" She suggested some adjustments to the amounts in the mixture to make it more easily digestible.Alex<strong>and</strong>ra laughed <strong>and</strong> explained that this recipe came from a very old Greek medical book."I believe you, I once met a Greek woman in Batumi. She was very good at such things.Alex<strong>and</strong>ra surprised Shalva with her request to attend his soul-calling ceremony. Who had told her? Gocha explained<strong>and</strong> put in a word for Alex<strong>and</strong>ra. Shalva, still suspicious, grumbled that Niko <strong>and</strong> Alex<strong>and</strong>ra could attend, but none of theother foreigners. They should come to a house on the outskirts of Ipari at night where someone would pick them up.Nobody should see them or hear about it, otherwise the authorities might try to prevent the ceremony.47.Calling the dead, Svaneti1907The man who picked up Alex<strong>and</strong>ra <strong>and</strong> Niko led them to a house at the upper end of the village <strong>and</strong> into a roomilluminated only by a few c<strong>and</strong>les. More than twenty people were sitting on the floor surrounding a female bread dougheffigy clothed in old rags. Behind the figure sat Shalva enthroned, wearing a paper crown <strong>and</strong> a heavy coat. A small h<strong>and</strong>drum rested between his knees. Across from him, in the first circle, sat the relatives of the deceased woman.Alex<strong>and</strong>ra <strong>and</strong> Niko took a place in the shadows behind the other villagers. They found themselves next to the wives ofthe natsvali <strong>and</strong> the teacher. After all the meeting must not be as secret as they had been led to believe. Shalva musthave resented their being outsiders more than he feared the officials.Drumming a slow beat, Shalva sang an incantation in Svani. The teacher’s wife whispered that he was calling the soul ofthe dead woman. Shalva swayed back <strong>and</strong> forth. With time his drumming got more hypnotic. Suddenly his voice flippedto a high female pitch. The audience sat spellbound.The husb<strong>and</strong> of the dead woman whispered her name. Mechanically Shalva opened a cage next to him <strong>and</strong> pulled out apigeon that dragged a long string on its foot. He tied the string to the effigy <strong>and</strong> let the bird walk loose in the inner circle.At first the pigeon stood rooted <strong>and</strong> seemed confused. Shalva began drumming at a higher speed. A sigh went throughthe audience when the bird shook itself. "The soul has entered the bird," whispered the wife of the natsvali.Shalva in his high-pitched voice addressed the pigeon, urging it on. Someone put a plate with bread crumbs into thecircle. The plate slowly passed from one to the other among the woman’s kin. The pigeon followed, picking at thecrumbs. As the bird came to the husb<strong>and</strong>, it stopped. The audience held its breath, would it recognize him? Shalvaincreased his efforts <strong>and</strong> the pigeon jumped up <strong>and</strong> fluttered into the husb<strong>and</strong>’s lap. Beyond himself he babbled excitedlycalling the bird with his late wife’s pet name.A young woman in the inner circle started to wail loudly. Shalva, eyes closed, mumbled an incantation in his normalvoice. The pigeon walked on until it came to the young woman, it fluttered up <strong>and</strong> l<strong>and</strong>ed on the woman’s head. The149
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Table of Contents1. My Grandfather'
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1.My Grandfather's Watch among the
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ditch beside the road.Mother was tr
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Deep snow still covered Djvari Pass
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"But you know nothing about how to
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newborn baby! You won’t need a ba
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Dadiani bent over the table, reache
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Autumn had come to Georgia, and it
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"Gespenstisch!" whispered Mouravi t
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Finally, depressed by his inability
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They slowly rode up the hill north
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On their way back to the Lavra Alex
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Blushing like a young girl, she gav
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Alexandra bowed deeply to a middle-
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All applauded and Ilia made a small
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She had done her hair up in a new w
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ape her. But then he must die, and
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a rear door when she entered.If Per
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Alexandra went purple with embarras
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The smell of roasting lamb wafted t
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Konrad quietly sat back. To his gre
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The tall, dark-haired woman began w
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She kissed him."Maybe you dream of
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14.Tuscany - the Wolfsons' House in
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ut are, unjustly, much more famous.
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Alexandra had fallen into melanchol
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She kissed him tenderly. "Niko, I a
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obligations, and she, ever since th
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months, was flooded with the diffus
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could they be aroused into communal
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19.An unexpected encounter with Vla
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chauffeur drop me at the station ju
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She described her sensation of flyi
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sky a thin, transparent blue. Imbed
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interest in Theosophy."Marti shrugg
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to?Mother had never mentioned any d
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"Ah, of course, of course, ‘Eine
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Konrad agreed that this sounded mor
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patriarchal oak and smiled, a littl
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have a similar situation in our vil
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Alexandra disagreed. "Most abortive
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a limited edition, hand-screened ma
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Alexandra touched her necklace and
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close!"She had hugged him, tears ru
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The others came lumbering up the st
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urden the heart with this task, whi
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the colors mixed and changed depend
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"From the soldiers whom I took care
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He watched Alexandra’s doubting m
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lond, bony girl whose gray eyes loo
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call it intellectual humanism. It d
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time I asked this question I had me
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"I spent most of the winter of 1918
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We buried him in the cemetery at G
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ways. Corruption became the way of
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68.A Concert in Kreuth - Eliso1989I
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Eliso listened with increasing fasc