Whenever it did not rain in October <strong>and</strong> November, Alex<strong>and</strong>ra took <strong>Konrad</strong> on ever-longer excursions. High on thepleasure of riding, they spent whole days in the vast steppe southeast of Tiflis, far from the prying eyes, the gossip,convention, <strong>and</strong> bustle of town.They left very early one morning when the air was still crisp <strong>and</strong> frosty. As soon as the squalor of the busy streets laybehind them, they let their horses fly. Except for a few shepherds <strong>and</strong> their flocks, no villages interrupted the expanse ofthis l<strong>and</strong>scape.South of the road to Kakheti the grassy plain stretched for miles towards the hills of Garedshi on the Azerbeidjani border.They rode along a barely visible track straight into the noon sun."Let’s see who wins!" she shouted <strong>and</strong> gave her horse free rein.<strong>Konrad</strong> bent down on the neck of his mare, stirring her to give all she had. They flew over the empty plain like arrows.For the first time <strong>Konrad</strong> felt truly at one with his horse. Very slowly he gained a nose, then half a head, <strong>and</strong> finally half alength on Alex<strong>and</strong>ra’s stallion."I give up," shouted Alex<strong>and</strong>ra raising her arms. "This time you win."She reined in her panting horse, jumped off, <strong>and</strong> threw herself full-length into a s<strong>and</strong>y depression laughing <strong>and</strong> gaspingfor breath. He knelt next to his high-spirited Amazon <strong>and</strong> kissed her tenderly.The low sun threw long shadows of the two lonely riders over the yellow grass, when they reached the seeminglybewitched rock formations of David Garedja. In an amphitheater surrounded by rock walls pocked with caves they cameupon the Lavra, the dilapidated center of the monasteries of Udabno.An Azeri shepherd family <strong>and</strong> their flock occupied the ground floor in the only intact building. The shepherds spoke aheavily Farsi-inflected Georgian, which Alex<strong>and</strong>ra could barely underst<strong>and</strong>. They offered them an empty room on thesecond floor, once a monk’s cell, <strong>and</strong> for a small amount of money promised to provide for the horses.In the light of the fading day <strong>Konrad</strong> <strong>and</strong> Alex<strong>and</strong>ra explored the ruins, defense towers, remnants of a collapsed church,<strong>and</strong> an elaborate system of water runnels feeding a cavernous cistern full of frogs. Hermits once occupied the caves inthe soft rocks.Along an extended incline they climbed to one of the caves, where they sat imagining the place inhabited by monks who,in the tenth century, had come to live at the feet of the revered Syrian mystic David Garedji.A full moon rose. The caves in the rock walls filled with spooky shadows. The chanting of the night vigil surrounded them."You wanted to learn Georgian?" She smiled quizzically at him. "Are you still prepared to do that, or have you changedyour mind?" He frowned. "How could I have changed my mind? Are you still prepared to marry me?"She put an arm around his shoulder <strong>and</strong> whispered, "Me umorchilesad gtkhovt tkveni kalishvilis khels." Irritated he shookhis head. "You know that I don’t underst<strong>and</strong> Georgian, will you translate for me?" "Just repeat after me." Loud <strong>and</strong> clearlyshe said again, "Me umorchilesad gtkhovt tkveni kalishvilis khels."He stuttered through the line. "Is this the beginning of a poem?" "Perhaps, but it is definitely the beginning of our lifetogether. The triple consonants are difficult. Try again, you are getting better." Slowly he gathered that this was the magicformula that would persuade Irakli Dadiani to concede his daughter to him. In the end, after he had mastered the entirephrase <strong>and</strong> repeated it several times in a row, he kissed her <strong>and</strong> begged off until another day.In a beautiful, clear alto voice Alex<strong>and</strong>ra began to sing songs that sounded sad, mysterious, <strong>and</strong> exciting, all at once. Themoon had come across the hills, <strong>and</strong> its light flooded the valley of the Lavra. A sheep bleated <strong>and</strong> the dogs began tohowl. Soon an answer came from the desert, a jackal or another sheep dog? The desert night sprang to life with voices.In the early morning they walked up a steep path across the broad back of the ridge behind the Lavra. Alex<strong>and</strong>ra hadheard of another cave complex, but had never been there <strong>and</strong> had to ask the shepherds for the way. From an old chapelon top of the ridge a yellow-brown wastel<strong>and</strong> of rolling hills spread before them, here <strong>and</strong> there a darker rock formationcast slanted shadows. For a long time they searched for the elusive caves.<strong>Konrad</strong> had climbed along a steep precipice <strong>and</strong> called. "Alex<strong>and</strong>ra, these rocks are full of discarded snake skins, theremust be dozens of them here. Come, have a look." "Snakes are one species I really don’t like," she shouted back."Thank you, I don’t want to follow you. They are dangerous Asian s<strong>and</strong> vipers. Thank God it is not spring, you simplycould not climb these rocks."Finally she discovered the caves that they had been searching for hidden underneath the overhang: a collapsedrefectory, numerous small cells, a chapel in a rock cave, the roof of which lay strewn about in jagged, crystallineboulders, fantastic sculptures in the early light.Alex<strong>and</strong>ra had to climb on <strong>Konrad</strong>’s shoulders to reach the refectory, <strong>and</strong> then she pulled him up. Carefully watching forfalling stones, they found six benches <strong>and</strong> tables in the cave hewn from the bare rock.Suddenly they stood before a fresco of the Last Supper: Christ <strong>and</strong> the disciples seated around an oval table strewn withround loaves, a single fish in a bowl. Behind the table, to the left, the city of Jerusalem, a tree on the right. It was paintedin delicate hues of green, pink, <strong>and</strong> yellow. <strong>Konrad</strong> counted the disciples <strong>and</strong> found only eleven! Judas was missing!"Strange, in all four gospels Judas was part of the Last Supper. Why have these monks omitted him?""Maybe they wanted to punish him!" suggested Alex<strong>and</strong>ra. "But these were Syrian monks, who often entertained strangebeliefs that are not part of the gospels. To them Judas was the only one who knew—who recognized Jesus as Christ."24
On their way back to the Lavra Alex<strong>and</strong>ra asked <strong>Konrad</strong> about his attitude towards religion. <strong>Konrad</strong> began to laugh. "Ah,die ewige Gretchen Frage: ‘Heinrich wie hältst Du’s mit der Religion?’ (the eternal Gretchen question, Heinrich what isyour attitude towards religion?) asks Margarete her enlightened friend Faust in Goethe’s drama. One of the most famouslines in German literature!—Oh, as you know, I was baptized <strong>and</strong> brought up as a Lutheran, not in any rigorous way. TheChurch is unimportant to me, a human institution with all the shortcomings, errors, <strong>and</strong> political manipulations of the‘believers’ that this implies. God? Sometimes I think I believe in God, on other occasions I am not sure he ever existed.Sometimes I am most certain he is dead, or has fled the miserable scene he has created. As a scientist I do preferDarwin’s theory over Genesis, but I love the symbolism <strong>and</strong> poetry of the Bible. What else do you want me to say?"She fidgeted with her hair, which hung tousled in her face. "I thought you would laugh at me. Father asked me thisquestion about you, expressing the hope that you would not be a fanatic. Well, I am happy that I was right when Ireassured him that you were not. Father pays lip service to Orthodoxy, because it is the convention of our time here, buthe thinks much like you. Are you a Socialist, then?" She cocked her head."If you wish to describe my political hopes for the future, you may call me a Socialist. I am certainly no royalist. But againI cannot muster any fanatic, political convictions. They only lead to blind destruction."In November Alex<strong>and</strong>ra proposed to take <strong>Konrad</strong> to Alaverdi, where, in celebration of the local saint’s feastday, theshepherds from the mountains congregated at this time to aat, drank, <strong>and</strong> danced for two weeks with the local peasants.The most colorful event in Kakheti. They took the ancient path through the low mountains that separate Tiflis fromKakheti."Father suggested that we get married in the cathedral at Alaverdi," explained Alex<strong>and</strong>ra. "Because you do not belong tothe Eastern Orthodox Church the priests in Tiflis would not marry us without first converting you, <strong>and</strong> Alaverdi is myfavorite church."<strong>Konrad</strong> was aware of this problem <strong>and</strong> had wondered how it could be resolved. "Russia needs a civil-law marriage whichBismarck instituted in Germany. That would end the medieval influence of the Church."Alex<strong>and</strong>ra sighed. "Here speaks my red-bearded Socialist." She looked dreamily at the horizon. "I love the Georgianwedding ceremony, it is very beautiful <strong>and</strong> gives a marriage meaning. I would never submit to a wedding before amagistrate, <strong>and</strong> I hope that our venerable Georgian institution will never be changed."<strong>Konrad</strong> laughed. "So, an unbeliever cannot get legally married? I have met several such people among my students inSt. Petersburg, they are forced to live in ‘sin.’""Or bribe the priest!" she retorted with a shrug. "The priests are poor <strong>and</strong> corruptible, especially in the country. Papa <strong>and</strong>Ilia Chavchavadze will discreetly pay off the priest in Alaverdi, but this is difficult to do in Tiflis."Around the white cathedral that towered above the vineyards spread one huge encampment. The music, the neighinghorses, <strong>and</strong> bleating sheep could be heard from a mile away. As they drew closer they came upon a Breughelian sceneof dancers. An accordion, a drum, <strong>and</strong> a high clarinet provided the music. The young men formed a line. With their h<strong>and</strong>son each other’s shoulders <strong>and</strong> loud shouts they snaked around the girls pretending to be disinterested. Then the musicchanged pace. The line broke up <strong>and</strong> each man performed a fancy figure of steps before the girl of his choice. Finallymen <strong>and</strong> women alternating joined in a tight circle, which turned faster <strong>and</strong> faster as the drum beat at a frenzied pace<strong>and</strong> the clarinet screeched to a dizzying pitch—until the ring broke apart under great merriment.They walked through the encampment, filled with uncounted carts <strong>and</strong> wagons, smoking fires, steaming cauldrons, <strong>and</strong>outspread tablecloths around which women <strong>and</strong> men sat separated, eating, singing, <strong>and</strong> carousing to their heart’sdelight. In one corner three women plucked chickens to be cooked in a cauldron of boiling water. In another two menskinned <strong>and</strong> slaughtered a sheep hanging from the side of a wagon. At every drinking party they passed, <strong>Konrad</strong> had todrink a glass of the dangerous, effervescent, new wine or eat a piece of lamb."If we walk around much longer, I will be drunk!" <strong>Konrad</strong> moaned."Let us look behind the scene," Alex<strong>and</strong>ra suggested threading through the cheerful crowd. They entered the ambulatorythat ringed the cathedral <strong>and</strong> there in a corner found an old man. Shepherds dragging bleating rams by the horns werejostling close to him.Alex<strong>and</strong>ra stopped at a distance from the scene. "He is a khevisberi, a shaman from the mountains. They have beenconsecrating sheep for millennia. They don’t like women to enter their magic circle when they work. But you may gocloser <strong>and</strong> watch what happens."With a pair of thin c<strong>and</strong>les, mumbling incantations, the old man burnt a cross into the wool of the sheep’s forehead. Theshepherd gave the khevisberi a ruble <strong>and</strong> filled his glass with wine from a pitcher his young son carried on his shoulder.Then they dragged the struggling sheep back to their cart.Within minutes the sheep was dispatched <strong>and</strong> hung ready to be skinned. The meat was dressed, skewered, <strong>and</strong> broiledover an open fire. The bones, joints, <strong>and</strong> ligaments went into a cauldron of boiling water to make, with lots of garlicadded, khashi, the traditional sheep broth."I know this abominable brew," said <strong>Konrad</strong>, "khashi was my first encounter with the wonderful Georgian kitchen. Leistobliged me to eat it in Kasbegi, the day I first set foot on Georgian soil."Alex<strong>and</strong>ra laughed as hard as her father.25
- Page 3 and 4: Table of Contents1. My Grandfather'
- Page 5 and 6: 1.My Grandfather's Watch among the
- Page 7 and 8: ditch beside the road.Mother was tr
- Page 9 and 10: Deep snow still covered Djvari Pass
- Page 11 and 12: "But you know nothing about how to
- Page 13 and 14: newborn baby! You won’t need a ba
- Page 15 and 16: Dadiani bent over the table, reache
- Page 17 and 18: Autumn had come to Georgia, and it
- Page 19 and 20: "Gespenstisch!" whispered Mouravi t
- Page 21 and 22: Finally, depressed by his inability
- Page 23: They slowly rode up the hill north
- Page 27 and 28: Blushing like a young girl, she gav
- Page 29 and 30: Alexandra bowed deeply to a middle-
- Page 31 and 32: All applauded and Ilia made a small
- Page 33 and 34: She had done her hair up in a new w
- Page 35 and 36: ape her. But then he must die, and
- Page 37 and 38: a rear door when she entered.If Per
- Page 39 and 40: Alexandra went purple with embarras
- Page 41 and 42: The smell of roasting lamb wafted t
- Page 43 and 44: Konrad quietly sat back. To his gre
- Page 45 and 46: The tall, dark-haired woman began w
- Page 47 and 48: She kissed him."Maybe you dream of
- Page 49 and 50: 14.Tuscany - the Wolfsons' House in
- Page 51 and 52: ut are, unjustly, much more famous.
- Page 53 and 54: Alexandra had fallen into melanchol
- Page 55 and 56: She kissed him tenderly. "Niko, I a
- Page 57 and 58: obligations, and she, ever since th
- Page 59 and 60: months, was flooded with the diffus
- Page 61 and 62: could they be aroused into communal
- Page 63 and 64: 19.An unexpected encounter with Vla
- Page 65 and 66: chauffeur drop me at the station ju
- Page 67 and 68: She described her sensation of flyi
- Page 69 and 70: sky a thin, transparent blue. Imbed
- Page 71 and 72: interest in Theosophy."Marti shrugg
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"Ah, of course, of course, ‘Eine
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Konrad agreed that this sounded mor
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patriarchal oak and smiled, a littl
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have a similar situation in our vil
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Alexandra disagreed. "Most abortive
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a limited edition, hand-screened ma
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Alexandra touched her necklace and
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close!"She had hugged him, tears ru
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The others came lumbering up the st
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urden the heart with this task, whi
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the colors mixed and changed depend
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28.Kandinsky's suprising confession
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With kisses Alexandra removed the v
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He knelt, removed her knee and leg
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Joachim viewed Konrad with sympathe
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The rumbling continued at regular i
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Russia."She picked up a piece of br
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conservative pessimism, demanded th
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preventative method and taking it e
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new provocation in modern music and
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exhausted the Renaissance idea of b
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creative clairvoyance, and her shar
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Left to herself, Alexandra, awed, w
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public. She fended off the fuzzy wo
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ailways on strike. The strike had t
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Grandfather was very sad when he fo
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and put on his coat and shoes, he r
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Alexandra not in the mood to give V
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crowd of the fashionable and the ma
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established tradition with some mil
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42.Uncle Muravi's Benz, Tiflis1907"
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equisitioned a locomotive to take t
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meaningless rituals. That may be on
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lacking. I like this man, and at th
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are suitably ambiguous."45.The Dadi
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think of Munich or something else p
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He showed them the room where they
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death."Alexandra was more intereste
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they fought over the offering. The
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flew off cawing.Claudia grabbed Ale
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Together they were hedging out a pl
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the right of women to own their bod
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The Chinese wife of a sinologist at
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these texts."However, Ch'an is the
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times, but moved back together agai
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survived the Bolsheviks, the Fascis
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physically overwhelm her. Despite h
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Konrad picked up Alexandra at the t
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Abruptly her vision had narrowed, a
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the Kwadjagani, the Masters of Wisd
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somewhat, his back was still bent,
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century. The characteristic Chinese
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Alexandra was relieved and happy, a
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subconscious past her observant min
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Dahl leaned back in surprise. "This
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visions reappear. Entire armies mar
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"This method is not easy, I have ne
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He had started with representationa
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His hair had turned completely whit
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Overnight the mood in St. Petersbur
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daughter. His wife had left him no
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which was presented to him—with a
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"From the soldiers whom I took care
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He watched Alexandra’s doubting m
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lond, bony girl whose gray eyes loo
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call it intellectual humanism. It d
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time I asked this question I had me
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"I spent most of the winter of 1918
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We buried him in the cemetery at G
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ways. Corruption became the way of
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68.A Concert in Kreuth - Eliso1989I
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Eliso listened with increasing fasc