a peaceful compromise, the b<strong>and</strong>s would play alternatingly German <strong>and</strong> Georgian music, <strong>and</strong> Schulenburg offered toclimb back onto the train to pose with his wife for the photographers. It became the biggest welcoming reception inmemory.Alex<strong>and</strong>ra, overwhelmed by this unexpected production, surprised herself by emotional tears at so much good, old Tiflis.Otto self-importantly saluted the b<strong>and</strong>, Deda cried, <strong>and</strong> Irakli had an unquenchable attack of laughter. Irakli had grownvisibly older, his hair was now completely white, but his black mustache was still a splendid affair. Alex<strong>and</strong>ra hugged him.Did he dye it?Two days later, accompanied by Niko <strong>and</strong> Claudia, the Dahls arrived. They had taken the boat from Italy to Batumi.Niko volunteered to pick up Vladimir at the station. Alex<strong>and</strong>ra, feeling giddy, had found an excuse not to go. Use yourhead, she admonished herself, he is a good friend, no more.Vladimir showed himself from his best side, the perfect gentleman without affectations or airs. He quickly woneverybody’s liking.The big house had not seen so much life since Alex<strong>and</strong>ra’s wedding. Deda, alternating between crying <strong>and</strong> clowning,was deliriously happy. Alex<strong>and</strong>ra searched Deda’s still delicate face, now full of creases <strong>and</strong> wrinkles. "How are you,dearest mother of mine?"Deda stepped back, she now had trouble seeing things close up, pouting <strong>and</strong> rowing her arms in the so familiar way, herhead cocked at an angle. "I am at peace <strong>and</strong> happier than you have ever known me. Can’t you see? I have missed youbadly. Since I saw you last in St. Petersburg, you have become even more beautiful. And you are so slender after twochildren, how do you do it? Papa retired from teaching <strong>and</strong> is devoting his whole time to the revised edition of hisanthology of Georgian poetry. He has become more tolerant. We are both very well.""How are Olga <strong>and</strong> Ilia, <strong>and</strong> how is Sophia taking the death of her husb<strong>and</strong>?"A cloud crossed Deda’s face. "Olga, as always, followed Ilia into exile. They live under surveillance near Sevastopol, tooclose to for comfort. The house in Zaguramo st<strong>and</strong>s empty."She became animated. "You should soon go to Kaspi to visit Sophia. She has been hiding in mourning out there for toolong. Maybe you can lure her here for little Sophia’s christening. Take Otto along. She has not stopped talking aboutOtto’s miraculous ‘Tibetan’ birth."Alex<strong>and</strong>ra laughed. "I saw those lights again when Sophia was born, it was very enjoyable <strong>and</strong> not Tibetan at all."They took the old phaeton to Kaspi. Otto was happy, he had rediscovered Tante Claudia who spoiled him. Amazing,thought Alex<strong>and</strong>ra, how easily children negotiate time <strong>and</strong> space. Otto was neither surprised nor curious how Claudiahad materialized suddenly so far from Munich. Alex<strong>and</strong>ra thought of their discussions in Fiesole. Children seemed tohave neither a time nor a space consciousness. What was Uncle Mouravi’s car going to look like? She had never seen it,some primitive, early three-wheeler?She gasped when she saw the machine, a state-coach in immaculate condition, four doors, a sofa in the rear, room forsix people, a sliding-glass window behind the front seats, eight cylinders, a pneumatic starter, at least sixty horses! Thebeauty shimmered in the sun. Niko <strong>and</strong> <strong>Konrad</strong>, excited like little boys, looked under the hood, fabulous workmanshipgood for another twenty years.Alex<strong>and</strong>ra slipped behind the wheel <strong>and</strong> pressed the starter. The monster roared."Easy, easy," shouted <strong>Konrad</strong>, "or you will take off <strong>and</strong> l<strong>and</strong> on the moon."Otto knocked on her door wanting to be taken along. She took him on her lap <strong>and</strong> allowed him to help her steer.Cautiously she turned a circle in the courtyard <strong>and</strong> then drove out onto the road to Kaspi. The feeling of power <strong>and</strong>elegance was fantastic, if only Friedrich could see this car."Well, we have found a fitting vehicle for Claudia <strong>and</strong> Niko’s wedding! Tiflis is going to be dumbfounded."<strong>Konrad</strong> <strong>and</strong> Niko took Claudia to Uplistsikhe on horseback. Otto, who at first wanted to stay with Alex<strong>and</strong>ra <strong>and</strong> drive thecar finally trembled with excitement when <strong>Konrad</strong> took him on his horse.Alex<strong>and</strong>ra stayed behind with Aunt Sophia. Sophia, dressed in black, in unusually sparse gestures, made Alex<strong>and</strong>ra talkof their visit to Florence, the summer on the beach, life <strong>and</strong> friends in Munich, <strong>and</strong> the shock of their return to St.Petersburg."How is your marriage with this unusual man?""Ach, dear natlideda, we have weathered highs <strong>and</strong> lows, slowly exploring each other <strong>and</strong> the limits of our love. Theemotional wastel<strong>and</strong> of my medical education was a hard test for both of us. But my profession now provides me with afocal point outside the family <strong>and</strong> <strong>Konrad</strong>, which allows me to see myself <strong>and</strong> our future with greater clarity."She looked out the window at the peaceful countryside, the hills in the distance. "<strong>Konrad</strong> would like to leave the tensions<strong>and</strong> the chaos of St. Petersburg behind. When we were stuck in the snow on the train at the gates of the RussianEmpire, he reproached himself for not having persuading me to stay in Germany. He is not often overcome by blackvisions of the future. Then he was."She faced Sophia, her eyes lit up. "At that critical moment—a threatening gang of revolutionaries, barring our journey,were swinging red flags at the border station—I was asked to help a woman in labor on the train. I who had neverattended to the delivery of a child! There was no time for anxieties or philosophical considerations only actions counted. I136
equisitioned a locomotive to take the woman to a hospital, <strong>and</strong> on the ride through the night in that snowstorm, my headbecame very clear. I needed to overcome my fears <strong>and</strong> go back to Russia to help wherever I could."The days in Munich came back to her mind, the evenings at the Dahls, their pilgrimage to Andechs. "Germany is verycomfortable, I could live in Munich, but the tensions <strong>and</strong> excitement of St. Petersburg keep my spirits alive. I want to dosomething more useful than take care of fashionable patients. I am prepared to share the uncertain fate that the chaoticRussian people have brought upon themselves. I am not afraid."Sophia looked at her with sad <strong>and</strong> serious eyes. "I am no longer as courageous as you are. Depressed, I watch thedecline of the Georgian aristocracy. And our estate in particular. I feel for George, who inherited the responsibility for thiscenturies-old family property. The Socialist government <strong>and</strong> the tenant farmers will destroy it. But let me not complain, Iam an old woman, why should I fear the future, which I will not have to live in."Sophia smiled at Alex<strong>and</strong>ra. "Tell me about your children. Otto is growing into a person all of himself.The way he rode offwith <strong>Konrad</strong> on the horse recalled the nostalgic memory of George’s first ride with your uncle. And little Sophia? You didme a great honor by naming her after me. I would have liked to bring her into this world. How did you manage?"Alex<strong>and</strong>ra described the convenience of the hospital. "I really enjoyed this delivery.""You already enjoyed the first one like few other women. I am still mulling over your experiences at Otto’s birth. I have totell you of a very interesting discovery I made recently." Sophia paused. Her face became animated. "A friend, aTibetologue, brought back a translation of a Tibetan book from Sikkim, called the Tibetan Book of Dying. Instructions howto pass the experience of death consciously <strong>and</strong> reach nirvana or rebirth. The text describes the frightening visionsduring dying: the same light phenomena you experienced occur, only in the reverse order!"Alex<strong>and</strong>ra was startled. "This is remarkable! Since Otto’s birth I have learned that these light phenomena can alsoaccompany a person’s dying. A friend had a very similar experience when he was shot <strong>and</strong> lay in a coma for many hours.Does your text also describe flying above one’s body?"Sophia shook her head. "I now remember that you also talked about flying, that you watched Otto’s birth from above. Inmy preoccupation with the mystical colors I completely forgot about your flying experience."Sophia leaned forward <strong>and</strong> with a tense voice said. "It seems that this happens when you die. Part of your soul separatesfrom your suffering body. It is you who decides when to let your soul leave your body for good <strong>and</strong> die. To remainconscious up to this point is the final goal of all meditation exercises."Alex<strong>and</strong>ra stared at infinity. A flash of underst<strong>and</strong>ing flooded her face. She blinked <strong>and</strong> focused on Sophia. In greatexcitement she said. "And the same happens during love-making. I am convinced a woman can learn how to die. Birth,love, <strong>and</strong> death are similar sensuous experiences."Sophia got up <strong>and</strong> took Alex<strong>and</strong>ra into her arms. "You confirm my most secret feelings. Thank you, dear courageouschild, for sharing this knowledge with an old woman preparing for her death."She heard the clatter of the returning riders outside their window.Otto came running into the room, shouting already from afar, "Mummy, we saw a mountain full of caves. We climbed intosome of them. They had windows <strong>and</strong> doors like real rooms. Niko says people used to live there until an earthquakedestroyed their houses. You could see it, the church had collapsed completely."Otto grabbed Alex<strong>and</strong>ra by the h<strong>and</strong>. "Come, I want to show you how I ride a horse."<strong>Konrad</strong> helped him onto the horse twice his height. Otto, fearless, very proud, sat in the saddle <strong>and</strong> pulled the reigns.Slowly he turned a circle in the yard.<strong>Konrad</strong>, full of pride, watched him. "Otto should learn to ride. Your father has a quarterhorse. I will teach him."43.Sophia's baptism, Tiflis1907Every morning <strong>Konrad</strong> took Otto along the paths of his rides with Alex<strong>and</strong>ra, to Zaguramo <strong>and</strong> Zedazeni, across themountain to Betania, <strong>and</strong> in the end on a two day ride to Kakheti. They visited Alaverdi <strong>and</strong> Telavi <strong>and</strong> spent the nightwith George <strong>and</strong> David Chavchavadze at Tsin<strong>and</strong>ali.On their way back <strong>Konrad</strong> took Otto up to Shuamta. <strong>Konrad</strong> had never been there, <strong>and</strong> approached the three littlechurches in the meadow with apprehension. But the place evoked no sensation of the drama between Dato <strong>and</strong>Alex<strong>and</strong>ra. <strong>Konrad</strong> rode off disappointed. On the way down he realized that unconsciously he had brought innocent Ottoalong as a shield against Dato’s lingering ghost. <strong>Konrad</strong> felt so moved by this discovery that he told Otto the tale of his137
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Table of Contents1. My Grandfather'
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1.My Grandfather's Watch among the
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ditch beside the road.Mother was tr
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Deep snow still covered Djvari Pass
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"But you know nothing about how to
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newborn baby! You won’t need a ba
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Dadiani bent over the table, reache
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Autumn had come to Georgia, and it
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"Gespenstisch!" whispered Mouravi t
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Finally, depressed by his inability
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They slowly rode up the hill north
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On their way back to the Lavra Alex
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Blushing like a young girl, she gav
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Alexandra bowed deeply to a middle-
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All applauded and Ilia made a small
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She had done her hair up in a new w
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ape her. But then he must die, and
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a rear door when she entered.If Per
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Alexandra went purple with embarras
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The smell of roasting lamb wafted t
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Konrad quietly sat back. To his gre
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The tall, dark-haired woman began w
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She kissed him."Maybe you dream of
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14.Tuscany - the Wolfsons' House in
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ut are, unjustly, much more famous.
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Alexandra had fallen into melanchol
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She kissed him tenderly. "Niko, I a
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obligations, and she, ever since th
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months, was flooded with the diffus
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could they be aroused into communal
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19.An unexpected encounter with Vla
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chauffeur drop me at the station ju
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She described her sensation of flyi
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sky a thin, transparent blue. Imbed
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interest in Theosophy."Marti shrugg
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to?Mother had never mentioned any d
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"Ah, of course, of course, ‘Eine
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Konrad agreed that this sounded mor
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patriarchal oak and smiled, a littl
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have a similar situation in our vil
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Alexandra disagreed. "Most abortive
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"This method is not easy, I have ne
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He had started with representationa
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His hair had turned completely whit
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Overnight the mood in St. Petersbur
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daughter. His wife had left him no
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which was presented to him—with a
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"From the soldiers whom I took care
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He watched Alexandra’s doubting m
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lond, bony girl whose gray eyes loo
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call it intellectual humanism. It d
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time I asked this question I had me
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"I spent most of the winter of 1918
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We buried him in the cemetery at G
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ways. Corruption became the way of
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68.A Concert in Kreuth - Eliso1989I
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Eliso listened with increasing fasc