"Rule number eight," said Alex<strong>and</strong>ra <strong>and</strong> stopped the car at the roadside, "when the radiator overheats, turn off theengine. Do not open the radiator as long as it steams. Achtung! Serious burns may occur. To open the radiator, cover thecap with a rag!""Where is the old rag?" she dem<strong>and</strong>ed.Friedrich sacrificed his kerchief, <strong>and</strong> <strong>Konrad</strong> fetched cold water from a nearby brook in his hat. She was in comm<strong>and</strong>,<strong>and</strong> enjoyed herself famously. "You see, we must get a few rags, a pail for water, <strong>and</strong> a sizable can for petrol!"Eventually <strong>Konrad</strong> cranked the engine, <strong>and</strong> they got back on the road."Friedrich, we need a powerful twelve-cylinder Daimler for the four of us. This thing is too puny for the Brenner Pass,"teased <strong>Konrad</strong>. But Alex<strong>and</strong>ra would not hear of it. "A Daimler will overheat too, <strong>and</strong> then you will need even more water.I like this modest-looking vehicle!"They stopped in Mittenwald on a meadow at the foot of the towering north face of the Wetterstein. Their spirits were highbut Katharina felt quite exhausted. The two women slept an hour in the fresh mountain air, while <strong>Konrad</strong> <strong>and</strong> Friedrichsat apart.Friedrich looked at the sleeping Katharina. "I don’t think Katharina should drive all the way with us to Florence, it will betoo much for her. Mother is right. Maybe she could go by train for a stretch, then meet us at night or drive with us for partof an easy day. What do you think, <strong>Konrad</strong>?"<strong>Konrad</strong> was entirely in agreement, but advised to wait until Katharina would come to the same conclusion.<strong>Konrad</strong> looked at "his" two women. Apparently Friedrich knew nothing of their menage a trois. He was happy that theirfoursome worked so well.Alex<strong>and</strong>ra h<strong>and</strong>ed the keys to Friedrich. "Thanks, it’s your turn. I have done my driving for today."Katharina suggested they drive home via Kochel. Friedrich cranked the car back to life, <strong>and</strong> they soon rolled down thesteep, hairpin turns between Kochel <strong>and</strong> the Walchensee.Alex<strong>and</strong>ra was the first to notice the hot smell. "What are you doing?" she shouted from the back seat. "Are you drivingon your brakes? For God’s sake, you will lose your brakes <strong>and</strong> l<strong>and</strong> us in the ditch. "Friedrich admitted embarrassed that he was already losing his brakes. What was he supposed to do? Wait until theycooled off?"Rule number two: When going down a steep hill put the car into second gear, take the foot of the gas, <strong>and</strong> let the enginedo the braking. This will save the brakes <strong>and</strong> your life!" Friedrich jerked the car into second. The car jolted dangerously,but they rolled safely down the hill. Friedrich risked a look at Alex<strong>and</strong>ra in the back, laughing, "Alex<strong>and</strong>ra, thanks to theAuto Club you have saved us twice today. What else do you know that I was never taught?""We will discuss that when we get to the next crisis. Do you know how to change a tire? I do, but I will st<strong>and</strong> aside whenthat happens <strong>and</strong> let you men do the work under my supervision! It was clearly a good idea to learn how to drive!"They left Munich at six in the morning. Katharina, to everybody’s relief had agreed to to take the train. They would meether in Innsbruck at the hotel at night.Claudia had begged Alex<strong>and</strong>ra to let her have Otto while they were away. Alex<strong>and</strong>ra was delighted by that suggestion<strong>and</strong> gave Elisabeth a much deserved vacation.On this brilliant spring day, they were dressed as if they were going to drive to Timbuktu: white racing caps, aviator’sgoggles, <strong>and</strong> beige leather jackets."Watch out Italy, here come the people from Mars!" shouted Friedrich.Friedrich drove, he had chosen the fastest route to Mittenwald. The Automobile Club had furnished Alex<strong>and</strong>ra with routemaps, suggestions of where to find petrol <strong>and</strong> mechanical help, advice as to road conditions, <strong>and</strong> a special trip-tique thatwould assure them the free help of the Royal Touring Club of Italy in an emergency.Their first crisis came as they reached the precipitous descent into the Inn Valley behind Ehrwald. Below them lay the cityof Innsbruck, the Brenner rose across the green valley. The view was magnificent, but the road dived vertiginously forseveral kilometers straight down. They were glad that Katharina was not with them, she would have been frightened outof her mind. Alex<strong>and</strong>ra <strong>and</strong> Friedrich finally decided to put the car into first gear. The engine whined but they grounddown the hill safely.The three reached Innsbruck at noon, <strong>and</strong> found Katharina asleep in her room. They washed up, had a rest, <strong>and</strong> spentthe afternoon walking through town: the Golden Dachl, the grave of Emperor Maximilian I surrounded by thirty-six lifesizedbronze statues of his mythical ancestors. Katharina knew a story for each of them. In the afternoon they dawdledeating Linzer Torte in an outdoor café.Friedrich estimated that it would take three or four hours to cross the Brenner Pass <strong>and</strong> reach Bolzano. They left atdaybreak. Katharina would follow an hour later, <strong>and</strong> they would pick her up at the station in Bolzano.They slowly wound their way up the mountain through villages <strong>and</strong> cows grazing on lush green meadows. The silveryb<strong>and</strong> of the Inn <strong>and</strong> the toy-like houses of Innsbruck lay below them. The ascent to the pass was less steep than theyhad feared, <strong>and</strong> the road was good. The engine boiled over only once. They tried a new method; whenever thethermometer began to climb <strong>Konrad</strong> would get a pail of cold water from a brook <strong>and</strong> throw it at the radiator. This110
preventative method <strong>and</strong> taking it easy made it unnecessary to open the dangerous radiator cap. They reached the passin an hour <strong>and</strong> a half.And there began Italy! The formalities of clearing the car for "import" into Italy took almost an hour. Only the help of thelocal TCI representative got them through in the end. Alex<strong>and</strong>ra, in her best Italian, beguiled the man most shamelessly."Maybe we should have bribed the customs officer," suggested Alex<strong>and</strong>ra later, accustomed to this kind of manipulationof officials.Friedrich laughed. "But you most successfully charmed the man from the Italian Touring Club, which you enjoyed it <strong>and</strong>cost us nothing!"They had grown cold waiting at the border, the higher mountains were still covered by deep snow. Now the air warmedquickly as they reached lower altitudes. In Bolzano bloomed the apples. The balmy air! And the scents of Italy! Flowerseverywhere. The smell of roasted garlic led them to a garden restaurant where they had lunch while waiting forKatharina. Her train was an hour late. Katharina begged to be driven along Lake Garda. It would take only an hour longerto get to Verona.Alex<strong>and</strong>ra drove. Blooming apple orchards <strong>and</strong> vineyards lined the road. Like in Georgia <strong>and</strong> different from Germany thenew bright green vines were strung horizontally. In the villages, under overhanging roofs, three <strong>and</strong> four story housespainted in all colors. They played hide <strong>and</strong> seek with the foaming Adige river until a sign pointed to Gardone. Alex<strong>and</strong>raclimbed over the low hills <strong>and</strong> before their eyes lay the blue expanse of the Lake.The road along the lake skirted the steep wooded hills on its west side. They had to pass one tunnel after another. Everytime they emerged from the darkness the blue water, only a few feet below, offered a new, unexpected surprise. Smallvillages dotted the low green hills <strong>and</strong> meadows on the opposite shore.Between the tunnels squeezed houses with red clay roofs in villages that climbed precariously up the steep hillside. Likea mother hen the church tower with its baroque helmet in their midst. Green-slatted window shutters which, when tiltedoutwards, cast sharp-angled shadows on the sienna-brown walls in the midday sun. Behind a profusion of blue clematis<strong>and</strong> glycinias hid a villa in its garden by the lakeshore. Boats moored at its private pier. Hidden on protected terracesbloomed lemons whose sweet scent flooded the road in pockets of warm air. The perfumes <strong>and</strong> colors of the promisedl<strong>and</strong>.In the middle of this beauty a flat tire. Alex<strong>and</strong>ra caught it just in time. She stood with folded arms instructing her men:"No, don’t jack up the car, first loosen the wheel bolts, then lift it."They put on the spare. It was done in fifteen minutes. <strong>Konrad</strong> stripped to his underpants <strong>and</strong> jumped into the lake. Hecame back after a few minutes shivering <strong>and</strong> spraying water, too cold. The next village was so alluring that they spent anhour in a café, warming themselves in the sun.Driving into Verona proved a daunting experience. The narrow cobblestone lanes of the old town were crowded withbraying donkeys, carts, flying vendors, colorful umbrellas <strong>and</strong> people shouting in the open markets, cursing, <strong>and</strong> singing.Alex<strong>and</strong>ra had to fight her way at snail’s pace. Nobody paid attention to her honking. They garaged the car at the hotel,paid the attendant to patch their punctured tube, <strong>and</strong> set out on foot.<strong>Konrad</strong> looked at his wife. "Are you happy? This town is the closest thing yet to the Tiflis Bazaar." They stayed anotherday. Katharina insisted that they take in an opera in the outdoor arena.Aïda in the immense Roman oval packed with people: live elephants, a flight of pigeons strategically released, a massivechorus, powerful singers, lavish costumes, everything bigger than big. However, the best show was provided by theaudience. Everyone knew the opera by heart. Thunderous applause after every well-sung aria. The favorite singersreceived an ovation even before they had opened their mouth.Alex<strong>and</strong>ra shuddered remembering the Varieté show in Berlin. Despite their multitude the natural grace of these peoplestruck her as so much more pleasant, graceful, exuberant, <strong>and</strong> closer to her own sensibilities. They were simply excited.Yet she came away certain that opera of this dimension was not for her. The intimate, complex chamber music in Munichhad touched her more deeply. Katharina gloated over the spectacle, her pinnacle of musical experience'The road to Vicenza was a chaotic tangle of men <strong>and</strong> animals. Friedrich had to watch not to run over one of the manydonkey carts that careened all over the road without order or discipline. In the endless, boring Po Valley the traffic wasless, but the fine dust from the miserable tracks penetrated everything. They trailed a long dust cloud. In Padua’s mazeof busy streets Friedrich got hopelessly lost, the arena chapel was closed when they finally found it.Dusted from head to toe, tired <strong>and</strong> disappointed, they decided to have lunch <strong>and</strong> wait. When the custodian opened thedoors half an hour later, the Giotto murals were a letdown. Alex<strong>and</strong>ra decided that they were strictly of historical interest,their visual appeal was limited: stiff, flat, <strong>and</strong> chalky. If only Walter were here to give them one of his lectures on the earlyRenaissance.They quit the race in Ferrara. The Schifanoia Palace that Walter had praised so highly was already closed. It was anunfortunate day, dust <strong>and</strong> little beauty along the road, <strong>and</strong> all the sights inaccessible. Exhausted, they fell into bed in amusty, second-rate hotel.Next morning they put Katharina on the train to Florenz <strong>and</strong> set out to conquer the Apennines passes. Alex<strong>and</strong>ra waslonging for the quiet discussions in Fiesole. <strong>Konrad</strong>, who had wanted to search for the traces of beautiful Novella111
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Table of Contents1. My Grandfather'
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1.My Grandfather's Watch among the
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ditch beside the road.Mother was tr
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Deep snow still covered Djvari Pass
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"But you know nothing about how to
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newborn baby! You won’t need a ba
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Dadiani bent over the table, reache
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Autumn had come to Georgia, and it
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"Gespenstisch!" whispered Mouravi t
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Finally, depressed by his inability
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They slowly rode up the hill north
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On their way back to the Lavra Alex
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Blushing like a young girl, she gav
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Alexandra bowed deeply to a middle-
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All applauded and Ilia made a small
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She had done her hair up in a new w
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ape her. But then he must die, and
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a rear door when she entered.If Per
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Alexandra went purple with embarras
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The smell of roasting lamb wafted t
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Konrad quietly sat back. To his gre
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The tall, dark-haired woman began w
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She kissed him."Maybe you dream of
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14.Tuscany - the Wolfsons' House in
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ut are, unjustly, much more famous.
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Alexandra had fallen into melanchol
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She kissed him tenderly. "Niko, I a
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obligations, and she, ever since th
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these texts."However, Ch'an is the
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times, but moved back together agai
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survived the Bolsheviks, the Fascis
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physically overwhelm her. Despite h
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Konrad picked up Alexandra at the t
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Abruptly her vision had narrowed, a
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the Kwadjagani, the Masters of Wisd
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somewhat, his back was still bent,
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century. The characteristic Chinese
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Alexandra was relieved and happy, a
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subconscious past her observant min
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Dahl leaned back in surprise. "This
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visions reappear. Entire armies mar
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"This method is not easy, I have ne
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He had started with representationa
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His hair had turned completely whit
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Overnight the mood in St. Petersbur
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daughter. His wife had left him no
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which was presented to him—with a
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"From the soldiers whom I took care
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He watched Alexandra’s doubting m
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lond, bony girl whose gray eyes loo
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call it intellectual humanism. It d
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time I asked this question I had me
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"I spent most of the winter of 1918
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We buried him in the cemetery at G
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ways. Corruption became the way of
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68.A Concert in Kreuth - Eliso1989I
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Eliso listened with increasing fasc