she had sewn from rugs during the last days. <strong>Konrad</strong> also carried a suitcase with a few important valuables <strong>and</strong>Alex<strong>and</strong>ra’s portrait. Everything else they had left in the apartment in the in care of a refugee family related to Helena.<strong>Konrad</strong> <strong>and</strong> Otto did not see Alex<strong>and</strong>ra again until the afternoon, when she reappeared with a man, a horse-drawn twowheeledcart, <strong>and</strong> a couple with a child. She waved a document from the garrison comm<strong>and</strong>er guaranteeing them freepassage at all military posts. The officer had assured her that they would be safe during daylight hours. The couple withthe child she had met at the comm<strong>and</strong>er’s office. They were on their way home to Tbilisi.The owner of the cart came from Kobi on the northern approach to Djvari Pass. He was not willing to take them all theway across. To make sure that he did not disappear along the way, Alex<strong>and</strong>ra had paid him only half the sum he hadasked for; the remainder she would pay him in Kobi. Alex<strong>and</strong>ra shrugged, this was not an unreasonable argreement forGeorgia. They loaded their baggage, Sophia, <strong>and</strong> Rusudan, the young girl onto the vehicle <strong>and</strong> set out towards themountains.They were not alone on the road. Military detachments marched south pulling heavy equipment, officers on horseback,refugees on foot or on carts like theirs. A l<strong>and</strong>au drawn by three horses, the driver cursing through a bullhorn to clear theway, raced past them, a general with his adjutants."Ho," laughed the Kobi man, "Where do these gents think they are going in such a hurry? Up there everyone has to walk,the general too."Alex<strong>and</strong>ra asked, was the pass still closed by snow?"Yes, yes," said the man, "I was there just a few days ago trying to take a rich Armenian merchant across to Mleti, <strong>and</strong>my cart got stuck. The Armenian was forced to walk through the snow. It is quite a distance to Mleti."Concerned, Alex<strong>and</strong>ra discussed the news with <strong>Konrad</strong> <strong>and</strong> Otto in German.This time <strong>Konrad</strong> was sanguine. "He is just trying to get a higher price from you for taking us to Mleti. Don’t worry, we willget through. Look at these soldiers, they will have to shovel a path through the snow to get their artillery across. Besides,we have, because of your excellent foresight, so little to carry that we can easily walk like everybody else."Alex<strong>and</strong>ra decided to overcome her anxieties <strong>and</strong> to improve her relations with the man, she made him talk about hischildren <strong>and</strong> life in Kobi. She discovered that in her heart she felt happy to be among Georgians again. After so manyyears, she was on her way home, what did it matter that the going was rough?By evening they reached the checkpoint at the border to Georgia. A long line of people waited to show their permits atthe turnpike <strong>and</strong> be searched for weapons by Russian-speaking soldiers.Alex<strong>and</strong>ra presented her document. The soldiers let them pass—except Otto, whom, suspecting him of being a deserter,they took into their shed. After an hour of anxious waiting, Alex<strong>and</strong>ra went to see the Georgian officer in charge. In a loudvoice she produced a histrionic, Georgian-style scene: my son, taking him away from his mother. He is not evenseventeen. I can show you his birth certificate. Think of your own mother. What kind of Georgian are you? She dideverything except bribe the officer.Within fifteen minutes she emerged triumphant with a pale <strong>and</strong> shaken Otto.Their companions <strong>and</strong> the cart had disappeared. It had become dark. They needed to find a place to spend the night.Everywhere people were camping in the open. Alex<strong>and</strong>ra approached a group of Georgian men who sat around aroaring fire <strong>and</strong> celebrated their return to Georgian soil. The men invited them to join their supper, a freshly shot rabbitroasting over the fire.Otto’s Georgian was not fluent <strong>and</strong> <strong>Konrad</strong> or Alex<strong>and</strong>ra had to translate for him. This was Otto’s first encounter with therougher side of Georgia. After supper, while bottles of wine made the rounds, the oldest of the men told stories.It was an unreal night, the scare at the checkpoint, the uncertain future, <strong>and</strong> the strange, age-old tales of the mountainpeople. Alex<strong>and</strong>ra h<strong>and</strong>led these rough people with an expert mixture of hauteur <strong>and</strong> easy familiarity. One man askedher for her name, <strong>and</strong> when she gave it as Alex<strong>and</strong>ra Dadiani <strong>and</strong> told them that her mother was Tamara Chavchavadzea great cheer went around the fire, <strong>and</strong> Otto <strong>and</strong> <strong>Konrad</strong> had to st<strong>and</strong> up <strong>and</strong> drink from a horn to Alex<strong>and</strong>ra’s health.In the middle of the night <strong>Konrad</strong> woke. Alex<strong>and</strong>ra was screaming obscenities. It was pitch dark. She let go of anotherseries of Russian curses. Otto sat up. "What is going on? You scared me!""Tshi," whispered Alex<strong>and</strong>ra, "Russian soldiers are trying to rob <strong>and</strong> rape a woman over there. Be very quiet."Alex<strong>and</strong>ra changed to Georgian, calling with a high-pitched, shrill voice on all Georgian men to st<strong>and</strong> up <strong>and</strong> defend thehonor of a Georgian woman against the "Russian swine." Within minutes the men in the encampment were on their feet,shouting <strong>and</strong> cursing the Russian intruders, who ran off into the night firing their guns into the air. The shots echoed fromthe rocks. Thereafter, they slept in peace for the rest of the night.They woke shivering. It took the sun a long time to penetrate the deep canyon. Alex<strong>and</strong>ra found the man with the cart<strong>and</strong> their companions, who had spent the night in a dirty room in a house that someone had rented to them for a highprice. They had hardly slept because of rats <strong>and</strong> vermin <strong>and</strong> the shooting. Did she hear the shooting? they asked. Theyhad been told that a group of Chechen b<strong>and</strong>its had staged a sneak attack on the post.Alex<strong>and</strong>ra laughed, "Ho, Chechen b<strong>and</strong>its, a single woman defended the honor of Georgia against a marauding group ofRussians.""Mother," asked Otto when they were back on the road, "where did you learn those terrible Russian swear words?"198
"From the soldiers whom I took care of at the hospital during the last years. They would scream like this when they werein pain. Only they would curse the Emperor. Once in a while these curses come in h<strong>and</strong>y, as you see. <strong>Konrad</strong> was right,you don’t need a gun to scare off these yokels."The going was steep, they were still at the bottom of the Terek gorge. Sophia <strong>and</strong> Rusudan had invented a game, <strong>and</strong>Sophia was fast learning Georgian from her new friend. Rusudan’s parents stuck anxiously close to their possessions onthe cart. Alex<strong>and</strong>ra involved the man from Kobi in a long conversation. Otto <strong>and</strong> <strong>Konrad</strong> brought up the rear.As they emerged from the canyon <strong>and</strong> Mount Kazbeg came into view, <strong>Konrad</strong>'s dark mood lifted. The sun <strong>and</strong> themountains swept his fears away. He told Otto of his first journey across the pass with Leist, <strong>and</strong> his adventures withAlex<strong>and</strong>ra in Tusheti.Exhausted, they reached Kobi by evening. Alex<strong>and</strong>ra’s devoting her attention on the owner of the cart brought them aninvitation to his house. In true Georgian hospitality he gave them a room <strong>and</strong> heavy carpets to sleep on. He even invitedthem to supper.Alex<strong>and</strong>ra paid him <strong>and</strong> quietly added a liberal amount for the room. She knew how to h<strong>and</strong>le such matters in thevillages. Later she doctored an abscess from which one of his children was suffering with a sterilized kitchen knife. Thegood man was highly grateful. She thoughtfully avoided asking him to take them to Mleti on that warm <strong>and</strong> comfortableevening.Over a cup of hot tea <strong>and</strong> fried eggs in the morning he opened the negotiations on his own. He could not take them anyfurther than Mleti, he said, because he had to be back for a wedding in Kobi on the weekend. He invited them to stay athis house for the wedding, he would take them early next week. The pass road had been cleared by the army, but onlyGod knew whether this unseasonably warm weather would hold.They discussed the reliability of the weather, the problem of having to find another vehicle in Mleti, <strong>and</strong> the temptation ofstaying for the wedding. The good man finally helped them come to a decision by suggesting that they were not dressedto brave a snowstorm in these mountains.They left after breakfast. Alex<strong>and</strong>ra got a very favorable price, because, he said, she had cured the child’s abscess.The man was not willing to take their companions along, the road was very bad, washed out from the sudden snow melt,<strong>and</strong> steep. He had only one horse. Their companions would have no trouble finding another vehicle. He laughed,everyone in the village was in the transportation business these days.The road up the bare mountains beyond Kobi was indeed like a riverbed. Huge boulders lay strewn in their wayalternating with deeply eroded sections. A l<strong>and</strong>slide had carried part of the road away. Snow patches still covered otherstretches. Several times Sophia had to walk. The horse could barely pull the cart, which often listed so much that Sophiawas in danger of falling off. On the pass itself the snow was still so high that they passed through a deep channel whichthe soldiers had dug.They had a brief rest at the hospice in Gudauri where <strong>Konrad</strong> <strong>and</strong> Leist had spent the night. Alex<strong>and</strong>ra wept when shesaw the hills of Georgia in the distance. By nightfall they wound down the last serpentine to the bridge across the Aragviat Mleti.In Mleti the Kobi man introduced them to a friend who offered them a room for the night <strong>and</strong> promised to take them toAnanuri in the morning, an easy hike of six hours.They reached Tbilisi two days later, exhausted but glad to be home. Tamunia-Deda, who had received no warning oftheir coming, took them into her arms crying <strong>and</strong> laughing. Frail, white-haired Irakli was shaking with excitement.Alex<strong>and</strong>ra <strong>and</strong> Deda in a flurry of hectic activity prepared two rooms. Later Alex<strong>and</strong>ra took over in the familiar kitchen<strong>and</strong> prepared dinner. Deda cried, "You were forced to walk across Djvari Pass! At this time of the year, <strong>and</strong> they nearlytook Otto away! I am so happy to see you all safe <strong>and</strong> healthy in my house."Nobody in Tbilisi had seen Vladimir. Alex<strong>and</strong>ra called Etzeri <strong>and</strong> left Tamara in tears. He had not arrived there either.Alex<strong>and</strong>ra feared the worst.A few days later, in the first week of May, a blinding blizzard swept the mountains. All passes were closed again foranother two weeks. Svaneti would remain cut off from the outside world well into June.All through May <strong>and</strong> June Tamara did not give up hope that Vladimir had taken refuge somewhere, or that he had beenheld for a while by the Chechens in the northern Caucasus.One morning two villagers from Betcho appeared at her father’s house with a sled-like contraption, pulled by two oxen,which the Svaneti peasants use summers <strong>and</strong> winters to negotiate the bad mountain tracks.They carried a long bundle wrapped in a tarpaulin. A short distance below the house they halted.Tamara went to greet them."Where are you going, <strong>and</strong> what are you carrying?"The older of the two men answered in a tragic, sing-song voice:"The body of your Russian lover…"Stone-faced <strong>and</strong> dry-eyed, Tamara glared at the men with such crazed wildness that the two dumped the corpse <strong>and</strong> fledin mortal fright.199
- Page 3 and 4:
Table of Contents1. My Grandfather'
- Page 5 and 6:
1.My Grandfather's Watch among the
- Page 7 and 8:
ditch beside the road.Mother was tr
- Page 9 and 10:
Deep snow still covered Djvari Pass
- Page 11 and 12:
"But you know nothing about how to
- Page 13 and 14:
newborn baby! You won’t need a ba
- Page 15 and 16:
Dadiani bent over the table, reache
- Page 17 and 18:
Autumn had come to Georgia, and it
- Page 19 and 20:
"Gespenstisch!" whispered Mouravi t
- Page 21 and 22:
Finally, depressed by his inability
- Page 23 and 24:
They slowly rode up the hill north
- Page 25 and 26:
On their way back to the Lavra Alex
- Page 27 and 28:
Blushing like a young girl, she gav
- Page 29 and 30:
Alexandra bowed deeply to a middle-
- Page 31 and 32:
All applauded and Ilia made a small
- Page 33 and 34:
She had done her hair up in a new w
- Page 35 and 36:
ape her. But then he must die, and
- Page 37 and 38:
a rear door when she entered.If Per
- Page 39 and 40:
Alexandra went purple with embarras
- Page 41 and 42:
The smell of roasting lamb wafted t
- Page 43 and 44:
Konrad quietly sat back. To his gre
- Page 45 and 46:
The tall, dark-haired woman began w
- Page 47 and 48:
She kissed him."Maybe you dream of
- Page 49 and 50:
14.Tuscany - the Wolfsons' House in
- Page 51 and 52:
ut are, unjustly, much more famous.
- Page 53 and 54:
Alexandra had fallen into melanchol
- Page 55 and 56:
She kissed him tenderly. "Niko, I a
- Page 57 and 58:
obligations, and she, ever since th
- Page 59 and 60:
months, was flooded with the diffus
- Page 61 and 62:
could they be aroused into communal
- Page 63 and 64:
19.An unexpected encounter with Vla
- Page 65 and 66:
chauffeur drop me at the station ju
- Page 67 and 68:
She described her sensation of flyi
- Page 69 and 70:
sky a thin, transparent blue. Imbed
- Page 71 and 72:
interest in Theosophy."Marti shrugg
- Page 73 and 74:
to?Mother had never mentioned any d
- Page 75 and 76:
"Ah, of course, of course, ‘Eine
- Page 77 and 78:
Konrad agreed that this sounded mor
- Page 79 and 80:
patriarchal oak and smiled, a littl
- Page 81 and 82:
have a similar situation in our vil
- Page 83 and 84:
Alexandra disagreed. "Most abortive
- Page 85 and 86:
a limited edition, hand-screened ma
- Page 87 and 88:
Alexandra touched her necklace and
- Page 89 and 90:
close!"She had hugged him, tears ru
- Page 91 and 92:
The others came lumbering up the st
- Page 93 and 94:
urden the heart with this task, whi
- Page 95 and 96:
the colors mixed and changed depend
- Page 97 and 98:
28.Kandinsky's suprising confession
- Page 99 and 100:
With kisses Alexandra removed the v
- Page 101 and 102:
He knelt, removed her knee and leg
- Page 103 and 104:
Joachim viewed Konrad with sympathe
- Page 105 and 106:
The rumbling continued at regular i
- Page 107 and 108:
Russia."She picked up a piece of br
- Page 109 and 110:
conservative pessimism, demanded th
- Page 111 and 112:
preventative method and taking it e
- Page 113 and 114:
new provocation in modern music and
- Page 115 and 116:
exhausted the Renaissance idea of b
- Page 117 and 118:
creative clairvoyance, and her shar
- Page 119 and 120:
Left to herself, Alexandra, awed, w
- Page 121 and 122:
public. She fended off the fuzzy wo
- Page 123 and 124:
ailways on strike. The strike had t
- Page 125 and 126:
Grandfather was very sad when he fo
- Page 127 and 128:
and put on his coat and shoes, he r
- Page 129 and 130:
Alexandra not in the mood to give V
- Page 131 and 132:
crowd of the fashionable and the ma
- Page 133 and 134:
established tradition with some mil
- Page 135 and 136:
42.Uncle Muravi's Benz, Tiflis1907"
- Page 137 and 138:
equisitioned a locomotive to take t
- Page 139 and 140:
meaningless rituals. That may be on
- Page 141 and 142:
lacking. I like this man, and at th
- Page 143 and 144:
are suitably ambiguous."45.The Dadi
- Page 145 and 146:
think of Munich or something else p
- Page 147 and 148: He showed them the room where they
- Page 149 and 150: death."Alexandra was more intereste
- Page 151 and 152: they fought over the offering. The
- Page 153 and 154: flew off cawing.Claudia grabbed Ale
- Page 155 and 156: Together they were hedging out a pl
- Page 157 and 158: the right of women to own their bod
- Page 159 and 160: The Chinese wife of a sinologist at
- Page 161 and 162: these texts."However, Ch'an is the
- Page 163 and 164: times, but moved back together agai
- Page 165 and 166: survived the Bolsheviks, the Fascis
- Page 167 and 168: physically overwhelm her. Despite h
- Page 169 and 170: Konrad picked up Alexandra at the t
- Page 171 and 172: Abruptly her vision had narrowed, a
- Page 173 and 174: the Kwadjagani, the Masters of Wisd
- Page 175 and 176: somewhat, his back was still bent,
- Page 177 and 178: century. The characteristic Chinese
- Page 179 and 180: Alexandra was relieved and happy, a
- Page 181 and 182: subconscious past her observant min
- Page 183 and 184: Dahl leaned back in surprise. "This
- Page 185 and 186: visions reappear. Entire armies mar
- Page 187 and 188: "This method is not easy, I have ne
- Page 189 and 190: He had started with representationa
- Page 191 and 192: His hair had turned completely whit
- Page 193 and 194: Overnight the mood in St. Petersbur
- Page 195 and 196: daughter. His wife had left him no
- Page 197: which was presented to him—with a
- Page 201 and 202: He watched Alexandra’s doubting m
- Page 203 and 204: lond, bony girl whose gray eyes loo
- Page 205 and 206: call it intellectual humanism. It d
- Page 207 and 208: time I asked this question I had me
- Page 209 and 210: "I spent most of the winter of 1918
- Page 211 and 212: We buried him in the cemetery at G
- Page 213 and 214: ways. Corruption became the way of
- Page 215 and 216: 68.A Concert in Kreuth - Eliso1989I
- Page 217 and 218: Eliso listened with increasing fasc