They waited for a spell of dry days. Tamara would take them to the high valley on a short but strenuous path along theInguri river gorge. Because stretches of this trail were too exposed for horses, they would have to walk <strong>and</strong> needed dryweather. They would return by an easier but much longer horse trail from the upper Svaneti to Lentekhi in theTskhenitskhali river valley, a hundred kilometers northeast of Zugdidi.As their excitement grew so did the complications. Vladimir, smitten with Tamara, had become a nuisance to everybody.He was beginning to affect their carefully balanced equilibrium. Alex<strong>and</strong>ra took him aside."Look my dear friend, I share your excitement about Tamara, but this is not St. Petersburg. Keep your ardor undercontrol. If you so much as kiss her, you run the risk of losing your private parts or having your throat cut one morning.The Svani are wild people with an old-fashioned code of honor, <strong>and</strong> this woman comes from one of their proudestfamilies. Should you have serious intentions, my parents would be more than happy to act as go-betweens. Showyourself from your best side in Etzeri. I see no reason why a liaison between your two families should not be possible."Vladimir smiled sheepishly at Alex<strong>and</strong>ra. "You are not jealous, are you?"She slapped him with her bare h<strong>and</strong>…lightly.After this conversation, Vladimir took hold of himself, <strong>and</strong> everyone sighed with relief.At long last the fog receded. Tamara called her father, <strong>and</strong> George had them driven to Kaishi where the trail began. Theyspent the night in the Kaishi school house under rough <strong>and</strong> doubtfully clean blankets, all five crowded into a single room.Tamara scared them out of their sleep at five in the morning. A simple breakfast of bread, eggs, <strong>and</strong> tea, <strong>and</strong> they wereon their way. She had hired eight porters who carried their belongings, warm clothing, a pair of extra shoes, bottles oftea, a lunch, <strong>and</strong> a few provisions that were needed at the house.The path followed the telephone line. It very quickly rose steeply from the river valley, which immediately behind thevillage became a deep canyon too narrow for a footpath. After two hours of climbing, the path leveled out parallel to thevalley high on its slopes. This was the dangerous part when it rained. Rock alternated with loose scree which fellprecipitously several hundred meters down to the foaming Inguri river. A wrong step <strong>and</strong> one would disappear into thechasm, <strong>and</strong>, pointed out Tamara with a facetious laugh, a horse would take all one’s belongings with him.After slowly climbing for another two hours, they reached the foot of a rocky promontory where Tamara stopped forlunch. But before they let the weary hikers rest, she persuaded the party to climb the rock.For the first time they saw the mountains flanking the lower end of the valley. Icy peaks on both sides. On the left Shtaler<strong>and</strong> Donbus Oron, over four thous<strong>and</strong> meters high, formed a wall behind which the broad snow cap of five thous<strong>and</strong> sixhundred meter Elbrus was barely visible. On the right side, though lower, Laila’s craggy snow fields rose spectacularlyfrom dark, heavily wooded slopes. The Svaneti Valley proper was hidden behind a low wooded ridge on the oppositeside of a chasm through which a tributary stream roared down from the Laila massif."Unfortunately," explained Tamara, "we will have to descend into this gorge <strong>and</strong> then climb out again over the ridge toreach Svaneti. This will take another three hours, but the path, except for the crossing of the river, will be much easier.And then we will be home."They took a short break <strong>and</strong> after rounding the viewpoint clambered down into the chasm to the bridge. The view of thebridge sent shivers down <strong>Konrad</strong>’s spine. Three parallel tree trunks spanned the chasm in which, fifteen meters below,thundered the river. Two ropes to hold onto, no railings."All right," said Tamara, "two weeks ago I did it by myself. I brought two climbing-ropes along, which I will tie to theperson walking across, so we can fish you out should you slip. Zhurab, the head porter, will carry the end of the ropeacross, <strong>and</strong> I will belay the other on this side. You can balance yourself by holding onto the rope rails. Who is free ofvertigo?"All looked at Vladimir, who shot <strong>Konrad</strong> a withering glance <strong>and</strong> then looked at Tamara. Blushing, he volunteered. Theporter gingerly carried the rope across <strong>and</strong> attached it to a tree on the other side. The rope lay slack on the beams.Tamara expertly tied it <strong>and</strong> a second rope around Vladimir’s waist."Tsavide!" shouted Tamara in Georgian, "off you go!"Vladimir began his walk. Hesitant, he put one foot before the other staring at the porter on the other side. Halfway acrosshe stumbled over a knob in one of the beams. He briefly looked down <strong>and</strong> promptly lost his balance. For a moment witharms spread he balanced on one leg, rowing with the other in mid-air."Don’t look down, look at Zhurab." Shouted Tamara gathering in the rope <strong>and</strong> bracing herself with all her strength for thesudden shock should he go overboard.They all held their breath. Vladimir raised his head <strong>and</strong> got both his feet back onto the beams."Good!" shouted Tamara, "Very good! Dance! Don’t walk so hesitantly. The bridge is wide, you cannot miss it."Vladimir now almost ran in short steps, head high, his sight on Zhurab. When he reached the other bank he wiped thesweat off his forehead <strong>and</strong> waved to his cheering friends, the hero of the day.Tamara pulled the rope back, <strong>and</strong> the next person was tied up.In this way Tamara ferried everyone across but Claudia. Claudia looked as white as a sheet. Fear widened her eyes."Well, Claudia, somehow we have to get you across too," said Tamara. "The only other way is that Zhurab carries youacross piggy-back. Don’t strangle the good man when you get scared, close your eyes <strong>and</strong> pray to the Mother of God,144
think of Munich or something else pleasant."In this manner Zhurab ferried Claudia to the other shore. Niko took her to a spring <strong>and</strong> washed her face. She sat by thewayside exhausted <strong>and</strong> wearily watched the porters carry the loads across <strong>and</strong> Tamara doing a last solo dance."Waah," sighed Tamara with a broad smile, "what a job to dangle five sheep across a harmless chasm." They all huggedher.From the bridge the path climbed across the ridge through dense coniferous forest. On the other side the woods openedonto a high meadow framed by snow mountains on both sides. It was mid-afternoon, relieved they collapsed by the sideof the path."We have made it!" shouted Tamara.<strong>Konrad</strong> with the eye of the botanist immediately noticed the flowers in the green meadow, a small crocus (colchicumautumnale), eight-petal dryads <strong>and</strong> a few alpine arnica were still blooming, a profusion of his beloved arctic gentians,silver-green with fringed petals. He quietly left them <strong>and</strong> returned with a rare, spectacular bluebell (primula wollastonia)with delicate, silver-white frosting in its chalice. He smiled at Alex<strong>and</strong>ra <strong>and</strong> presented the flower to Tamara.An hour later, at the edge of the woods below Laila Mountain a fairy-tale castle came into view. Two round towers withconical bonnets framed a rough-hewn, three-story stone building, a long larchwood porch under an overhang, roofsdecked with irregularly hewn, gray slate. A Georgian <strong>and</strong> a German flag waved on the towers.Tamara beamed. "My father’s house! Welcome to Svaneti!"Briefly <strong>Konrad</strong> envisioned another Gothic dungeon, but his fears were soon dispelled. The starkly simple rooms werefilled with bare wood furniture, h<strong>and</strong>made by Svaneti craftsmen. Occasionally such pieces could be found in the bazaarin Tiflis as rustic Svaneti antiques, expensive <strong>and</strong> much in dem<strong>and</strong>.David Dadeshkeliani <strong>and</strong> his tall, gaunt wife Asmat welcomed them with the reserved grace <strong>and</strong> warmth only found inthese mountains.She gave them rooms on the second floor with a bearskin covered bed, a small table, two chairs, a closet, <strong>and</strong> awashst<strong>and</strong>. In their room <strong>Konrad</strong> discovered a slender vase with the primula he had given Tamara, with a note: ForAlex<strong>and</strong>ra with love.Each room had a spectacular view of the peaks surrounding Elbrus. Under a small trapdoor hid the opening of a centralheating system bringing warm air from the first floor. It also served for internal communication, through the opening onecould hear every word spoken in the house.The night was cold. After supper they relaxed before the fireplace, leisurely stretched out on rawhide-covered sling chairstalking of life in St. Petersburg, Munich, <strong>and</strong> Italy. The curiosity of the Dadeshkeliani was unlimited.They spent a week with the Dadeshkeliani. To get acclimatized to the altitude they explored the neighboring valleys onday-long excursions. One morning Tamara led them on a steep hike up Becho Pass, across from Etzeri. Near its crestthey were forced to stop where the path veered across Ushba glacier.None of them had ever seen a large glacier close up. The ice stream, crossed by treacherous crevasses, glistened in themorning sun. It flowed from distant Mt. Ushba, the Matterhorn of Svaneti. Ushba’s precipitous south face was visiblethrough an ever-changing veil of clouds. The path continued winding precariously down through the maze of crevassesinto the hazy depth of Baksan Valley <strong>and</strong> the Russian plains. On the opposite side of the valley, very close, st<strong>and</strong>ing allby itself, rose the mighty, volcanic snow-hulk of Mt. Elbrus.The following night it rained, a nasty, cold rain. The thunder of avalanches woke them in the morning. It was bitterly cold.Fresh snow covered the high mountains. At noon, from the safety of the balcony, they watched an avalanche thunderdown Ushba leaving a cloud of snow crystals suspended in the air.The long, lazy days <strong>and</strong> the comfortable evenings turned into restlessness. <strong>Konrad</strong> longed to explore Free Svaneti, theupper part of the valley never conquered by either Moslems or Russians—<strong>and</strong> Vladimir saw his chance pass to proposeto Tamara.He approached Alex<strong>and</strong>ra. "What should I do? I am certain that I want to marry Tamara. She is quiet, honest, <strong>and</strong> direct,she knows exactly what she is doing, <strong>and</strong> she would make a wonderful companion in all <strong>and</strong> every situation." Alex<strong>and</strong>raknitted her brows. "Except that she is Georgian or more precisely Svani. She might never completely adapt to the fast,intellectual life of St. Petersburg. Look what efforts I had to make to appropriate St. Petersburg. Would you considerlearning Georgian <strong>and</strong> spend part of your life in Tiflis or up here?"He lowered his eyes. "If I continue writing, <strong>and</strong> my inheritance would allow me to do that, I could live just as well inSvaneti as in St. Petersburg. Of course, I could learn Georgian, what is one more language?"Alex<strong>and</strong>ra smiled contemptuously. "You know yourself that your inheritance might be destroyed overnight by that gloriousrevolution we so eagerly hope for. What then? Are you ready to write revolutionary pamphlets? You are honest butnaïve!"He got a red face <strong>and</strong> flared up. "I will never prostitute myself to write propag<strong>and</strong>a or political slogans, certainly not forthe Socialists."She pointed at him. "Well, there you are! I could at least care for the victims of such an upheaval. What would you do?145
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Table of Contents1. My Grandfather'
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1.My Grandfather's Watch among the
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ditch beside the road.Mother was tr
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Deep snow still covered Djvari Pass
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"But you know nothing about how to
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newborn baby! You won’t need a ba
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Dadiani bent over the table, reache
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Autumn had come to Georgia, and it
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"Gespenstisch!" whispered Mouravi t
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Finally, depressed by his inability
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They slowly rode up the hill north
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On their way back to the Lavra Alex
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Blushing like a young girl, she gav
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Alexandra bowed deeply to a middle-
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All applauded and Ilia made a small
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She had done her hair up in a new w
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ape her. But then he must die, and
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a rear door when she entered.If Per
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Alexandra went purple with embarras
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The smell of roasting lamb wafted t
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Konrad quietly sat back. To his gre
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The tall, dark-haired woman began w
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She kissed him."Maybe you dream of
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14.Tuscany - the Wolfsons' House in
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ut are, unjustly, much more famous.
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Alexandra had fallen into melanchol
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She kissed him tenderly. "Niko, I a
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obligations, and she, ever since th
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months, was flooded with the diffus
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could they be aroused into communal
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19.An unexpected encounter with Vla
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chauffeur drop me at the station ju
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She described her sensation of flyi
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sky a thin, transparent blue. Imbed
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interest in Theosophy."Marti shrugg
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to?Mother had never mentioned any d
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"Ah, of course, of course, ‘Eine
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Konrad agreed that this sounded mor
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patriarchal oak and smiled, a littl
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have a similar situation in our vil
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Alexandra disagreed. "Most abortive
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a limited edition, hand-screened ma
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Alexandra touched her necklace and
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close!"She had hugged him, tears ru
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The others came lumbering up the st
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daughter. His wife had left him no
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which was presented to him—with a
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"From the soldiers whom I took care
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He watched Alexandra’s doubting m
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lond, bony girl whose gray eyes loo
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call it intellectual humanism. It d
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time I asked this question I had me
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"I spent most of the winter of 1918
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We buried him in the cemetery at G
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ways. Corruption became the way of
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68.A Concert in Kreuth - Eliso1989I
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Eliso listened with increasing fasc