the watch well. It used to have a small key, <strong>and</strong> once in a while father would let me wind it.The lady explained that the key no longer existed.I bought the watch <strong>and</strong> locked myself into my shabby room at the "Hotel of the Academics" with my precious treasure.The lady at the shop had polished the slightly tarnished silver casing. The few minor dents in the lid only enhanced itsfaded elegance. Its Roman numerals gave it a most distinguished look, <strong>and</strong> a small, separate dial in gold <strong>and</strong> blueshowed the phases of the moon—Alex<strong>and</strong>ra’s time.I took the watch to a watchmaker in a bleak apartment block in the old part of the city. The old Jew whom I found in theoverstuffed cubicle carefully examined <strong>Konrad</strong>’s watch through his eyepiece. He offered to buy it. What would I do withsuch an antiquated timepiece in the age of digital watches? He shrugged resignedly when I told him that the watch wasnot for sale.As he opened the lid the crazy idea struck me to invert its mechanism, so it would run backwards.The graying watchmaker shot me a puzzled glance. Was I serious? What for would I want a watch that ran backwards?"Oh," I told him, "it will count the hours you <strong>and</strong> I have lost during the last hundred years, <strong>and</strong> maybe it will tell me whythere was so much suffering in this century.""Are you one of us?" asked the watchmaker examining me with his sad, inquisitive eyes. I said no, I was not Jewish, Icarried an American passport but had grown up in Germany.He nodded, spread his h<strong>and</strong>s acknowledging the inevitable <strong>and</strong> resorted to a mixture of Yiddish, Russian, <strong>and</strong> German.He explained that he could make the h<strong>and</strong>s of the watch run backwards by an exchange of two tiny wheels, but thephases of the moon he could not reverse.I was content to leave Alex<strong>and</strong>ra’s time untouched."Do you underst<strong>and</strong> my German?" asked the old man.He lamented his relatives lost in the German holocaust <strong>and</strong> Stalin’s terror. He had lived through the horrors of the war,"which they call the ‘Great Patriotic War’ in this country." He let his gray head hang.Yes, I understood him. I let him finish <strong>and</strong> then told him of my gr<strong>and</strong>parents, the watch, <strong>and</strong> father’s fate.He peered over his glasses <strong>and</strong> smiled."Now I see why you didn’t want to sell me this watch," <strong>and</strong> tilting his head, commiseration in his eyes he continued, "Yousuffered as much as we did. The world is a cruel place. Who will tell the story of the people who suffered through thisterrible century?"When I left he hugged <strong>and</strong> kissed me, Russian style."I wish you mazeltov, a long life, <strong>and</strong> glick in finding your lost people."A week later I picked up the watch. The watchmaker gave me a small key. As I wound the watch it chimed! I put it on mybedside table <strong>and</strong> as its silvery bell counted the hours of the night, its h<strong>and</strong>s slowly recalled my gr<strong>and</strong>parents’ lives.Great-gr<strong>and</strong>father Gymnasial Professor Julius Rost had died prematurely in 1890, leaving his wife <strong>and</strong> two sons behind.Money was short <strong>and</strong> as soon as his son <strong>Konrad</strong> had finished his degree in botany in 1895, he decided to accept theoffer of a good position at the Caucasian Department of the Imperial Botanical Gardens in St. Petersburg. It came withRussian citizenship <strong>and</strong> a contract allowing him to spend a sabbatical leave every few years to teach in Tiflis, Georgia.There <strong>Konrad</strong> had met Alex<strong>and</strong>ra Dadiani. She came from an aristocratic Georgian family who owned large estates inWestern Georgia. They got married in 1899. My father Otto was born in 1900.In 1918, when the Soviet terror threatened to overwhelm Georgia, my gr<strong>and</strong>parents sent Otto to Germany. Theyremained in Tbilisi. My father never saw his parents again. The outbreak of World War II put an end to a sporadicexchange of letters. A postcard mailed in 1943 through the Red Cross in Geneva signed "In Liebe <strong>Konrad</strong> undAlex<strong>and</strong>ra," no date, no address, was the last message that reached us. The only tangible remains of his parents were<strong>Konrad</strong>’s watch, a bundle of letters, <strong>and</strong> a portrait of Alex<strong>and</strong>ra.The portrait hung in father’s study in H—. It showed Alex<strong>and</strong>ra at the height of her life. The head slightly turned, herdeep-blue eyes fixed the viewer with an inquisitive, taunting look, which together with an ironic smile around hergenerous mouth, gave the impression of a sharp, possibly dangerous intelligence. She had an elongated face, withstrongly-modeled cheekbones, finely delineated eyebrows, a prominent, aristocratic nose <strong>and</strong> dark hair: A formidablewoman.Her décolleté exposed her long, elegant neck, a charming clavicle depression, <strong>and</strong> an unusual necklace of omegashapedgold links.The painting cast a magical spell on my childhood. I imagined that her eyes followed me, <strong>and</strong> in unobserved momentsshe would talk to me.I never met my gr<strong>and</strong>mother.Yet, before any other woman I fell in love with Alex<strong>and</strong>ra.I sank into restless sleep on that night in Moscow <strong>and</strong> the ticking of the old watch spun me into a sequence of hopelessmuddle dreams, mixing Alex<strong>and</strong>ra’s picture, our flight from the Russians, <strong>and</strong> my father’s life.I was back in the hot days of May 1945 fleeing from the Soviet armies. Mother had allowed each of us to take along onepersonal souvenir. Father had removed Alex<strong>and</strong>ra’s portrait from its frame <strong>and</strong> packed it in the suitcase now lying in the6
ditch beside the road.Mother was trying to flag a ride on a German military convoy. In that unobserved moment I dashed back, opened father’ssuitcase, dumped its contents, <strong>and</strong> rescued my Alex<strong>and</strong>ra’s painting. I hid the canvas under my clothes <strong>and</strong> told nobodyof the rescued painting I wore.The dream changed to the summer of 1945.I was sitting at my father’s hospital bed chasing the flies from his face. father drifted in <strong>and</strong> out of awareness. He hadcontracted typhoid in the Russian POW camp. In a panic the Russians had sent him to this German hospital. It was veryhot <strong>and</strong> the windows were open. The country was covered by a thick, brown smog reeking of burnt corpses. He was veryill but immensely lucky.My dream shifted again. In August father came home from the hospital. Mother <strong>and</strong> I were suppporting him from bothsides, half-carrying the emaciated, hairless man into our house in H—. He saw Alex<strong>and</strong>ra’s portrait in its old framehanging on the wall. I told him how I had saved it. Father smiled wanly. This smile on his gaunt face will forever remainsuperimposed on Alex<strong>and</strong>ra’s haunting portrait.2.<strong>Konrad</strong>'s first visit to Tiflis1898On a cold evening in May 1898, a tall, slender man in his thirties with dark-brown hair, a copious, untrimmed, reddishbeard, <strong>and</strong> gray eyes got off the Moscow train at the forlorn station at Vladikavkas in the northern foothills of the GreatCaucasus. For the first time <strong>Konrad</strong> Rost traveled to Tiflis to teach for a year at the Gymnasium of the Georgian Nobility.He had decided to exchange the dreary train ride via Baku for the Georgian Military Road across the mountains. It wouldbe a strenuous journey but much more beautiful <strong>and</strong> shorter than the railway to Tiflis.He had spent the night in the only guesthouse in the dusty garrison town <strong>and</strong> now waited in the dark of a cold morning forthe postal carriage to arrive. In the darkness he could barely make out the snow-capped mountains of the High Caucasustowards the south. The carriage, drawn by four horses, rolled up: a box covered with black oilcloth which swayed onimmense springs <strong>and</strong> high wheels. If the passengers squeezed, the carriage offered room for six.Luckily there were only four other passengers that morning: an Armenian matron with her demure teenage daughter, aGerman professor who had introduced himself as Arthur Leist the previous evening, <strong>and</strong> an elegantly dressed youngman on his way to buy Caucasian carpets in Tiflis .The dashing rug dealer cut by far the most elegant figure. About <strong>Konrad</strong>’s age, he wore a perfectly tailored white suit, ablack kerchief in its breast pocket, matching spotless shoes, <strong>and</strong> an English bowler hat. He twirled a patent umbrellanervously in the air, which he let pop several times to frighten the young daughter of the Armenian lady, who gigglingtook cover behind her mother.The Armenian lady, in her thirties, had already acquired a respectable figure. Dressed in the conventional costume of themerchant middle class, a long, black dress held together by an embroidered belt under which she wore a white, highcollaredblouse with long sleeves <strong>and</strong> a flat cap on her high hairdo, she constantly corrected her daughter’s manners.Although she pretended to ignore her three male fellow travelers, she stole curious glances from under long eyelashes at<strong>Konrad</strong> <strong>and</strong> Leist, the two foreigneners.<strong>Konrad</strong> had met Leist over supper. An unpretentious bachelor, Leist spoke, in addition to a charming Silesian, German,Russian <strong>and</strong> Georgian fluently. In his forties he stood a head shorter than <strong>Konrad</strong>. A well-trimmed, graying beard fringedhis face. Contradicting his bourgeois appearance, he was vivacious, <strong>and</strong> loved to season his didactic remarks with jokes.Fifteen years ago Leist had come to Tiflis as a young man, learned Georgian, <strong>and</strong> with Ilia Chavchavadze’s help, hadtranslated Shota Rustaveli’s The Knight in the Panther Skin, the Georgian national epos, into German. On a subsequentsojourn he had hopelessly fallen in love with Georgia, had decided to settle in Tiflis permanently <strong>and</strong> devote himselfentirely to the translation of Georgian classical literature <strong>and</strong> to studies of the Georgian languages <strong>and</strong> customs. <strong>Konrad</strong>was completely taken in by this congenial man. He could not have found a better guide <strong>and</strong> teacher.As the coach rattled south the entire chain of the Caucasus, of which <strong>Konrad</strong> had dreamed for years, lit up. For a fewminutes the icy peaks topped by the mighty cap of Mt. Kazbeg rose cold, pink <strong>and</strong> lemon-yellow before a turquoise sky.The rising sun quickly extinguished the colors <strong>and</strong> flooded the glaciers with a blinding, white light. The icy peaks seemedto float on thin transparent clouds above the dark-blue hills.The Caucasus rose like a wall, five-thous<strong>and</strong> meters high, directly from the Southern-Russian plains. Between Mt.7
- Page 3 and 4: Table of Contents1. My Grandfather'
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- Page 9 and 10: Deep snow still covered Djvari Pass
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- Page 15 and 16: Dadiani bent over the table, reache
- Page 17 and 18: Autumn had come to Georgia, and it
- Page 19 and 20: "Gespenstisch!" whispered Mouravi t
- Page 21 and 22: Finally, depressed by his inability
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- Page 25 and 26: On their way back to the Lavra Alex
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- Page 31 and 32: All applauded and Ilia made a small
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obligations, and she, ever since th
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months, was flooded with the diffus
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could they be aroused into communal
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19.An unexpected encounter with Vla
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chauffeur drop me at the station ju
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She described her sensation of flyi
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sky a thin, transparent blue. Imbed
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interest in Theosophy."Marti shrugg
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to?Mother had never mentioned any d
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"Ah, of course, of course, ‘Eine
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Konrad agreed that this sounded mor
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patriarchal oak and smiled, a littl
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have a similar situation in our vil
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Alexandra disagreed. "Most abortive
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a limited edition, hand-screened ma
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Alexandra touched her necklace and
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close!"She had hugged him, tears ru
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The others came lumbering up the st
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urden the heart with this task, whi
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the colors mixed and changed depend
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28.Kandinsky's suprising confession
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With kisses Alexandra removed the v
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He knelt, removed her knee and leg
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Joachim viewed Konrad with sympathe
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The rumbling continued at regular i
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Russia."She picked up a piece of br
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conservative pessimism, demanded th
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preventative method and taking it e
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new provocation in modern music and
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exhausted the Renaissance idea of b
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creative clairvoyance, and her shar
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Left to herself, Alexandra, awed, w
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public. She fended off the fuzzy wo
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ailways on strike. The strike had t
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Grandfather was very sad when he fo
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and put on his coat and shoes, he r
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Alexandra not in the mood to give V
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crowd of the fashionable and the ma
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established tradition with some mil
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42.Uncle Muravi's Benz, Tiflis1907"
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equisitioned a locomotive to take t
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meaningless rituals. That may be on
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lacking. I like this man, and at th
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are suitably ambiguous."45.The Dadi
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think of Munich or something else p
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He showed them the room where they
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death."Alexandra was more intereste
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they fought over the offering. The
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flew off cawing.Claudia grabbed Ale
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Together they were hedging out a pl
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the right of women to own their bod
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The Chinese wife of a sinologist at
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these texts."However, Ch'an is the
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times, but moved back together agai
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survived the Bolsheviks, the Fascis
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physically overwhelm her. Despite h
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Konrad picked up Alexandra at the t
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Abruptly her vision had narrowed, a
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the Kwadjagani, the Masters of Wisd
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somewhat, his back was still bent,
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century. The characteristic Chinese
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Alexandra was relieved and happy, a
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subconscious past her observant min
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Dahl leaned back in surprise. "This
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visions reappear. Entire armies mar
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"This method is not easy, I have ne
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He had started with representationa
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His hair had turned completely whit
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Overnight the mood in St. Petersbur
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daughter. His wife had left him no
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which was presented to him—with a
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"From the soldiers whom I took care
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He watched Alexandra’s doubting m
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lond, bony girl whose gray eyes loo
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call it intellectual humanism. It d
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time I asked this question I had me
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"I spent most of the winter of 1918
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We buried him in the cemetery at G
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ways. Corruption became the way of
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68.A Concert in Kreuth - Eliso1989I
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Eliso listened with increasing fasc