dunking in the baptismal cauldron. The wedding guests arrived for the reception at the Dadiani's town house in the bestof spirits, laughing <strong>and</strong> joking about the Georgian church <strong>and</strong> its clergy.At the wedding reception the Bredows persuaded the Dahls to stay with them in Constantinople on their way home. Theywould sail together from Batumi. At about the same time the expedition to Svaneti was set to leave. Irakli invited all tospend of a few days as guests of his half-brother David at the Dadiani mansion in Zugdidi, which lay conveniently on theway to Batumi <strong>and</strong> Svaneti. Only Alex<strong>and</strong>ra protested, she needed a volunteer who would share her driving <strong>and</strong> learnquickly.She had half-hoped that <strong>Konrad</strong> would take driving lessons from her. But he grinned, it would probably not be a goodidea to learn to drive from one’s wife. He would prefer instead to continue riding with Otto.The lot fell on Vladimir, who could barely hide his excitement of spending a couple of hours every day alone withAlex<strong>and</strong>ra. She was aware of providing that pretext.<strong>Konrad</strong> laughed when she told him. He had foreseen the outcome of her campaig. <strong>Konrad</strong> felt good in this relaxedenvironment—his rides with Otto into the hills, conversations with Leist, visits to Henri. Alex<strong>and</strong>ra’s excursions withVladimir did not disturb him. He had become fond of this man.Vladimir discovered the unexplored pleasure of h<strong>and</strong>ling the big machine. His father would have considered driving anabsurd proposition, why else did he have servants?They would drive short distances out of town, drink a glass of tea or wine under the plane-trees of a local chaihane, ateahouse, watch the colorful natives, <strong>and</strong> talk.Vladimir was interested in everything, the bewildering mixture of races, languages, <strong>and</strong> customs of Georgia. The life <strong>and</strong>times of her famous great-gr<strong>and</strong>father, Alex<strong>and</strong>er Chavchavadze. The story of the unhappy Griboyedov, who fell in lovewith Alex<strong>and</strong>er Chavchavadze’s sister <strong>and</strong> was horribly slaughtered by Islamic fanatics. Alex<strong>and</strong>ra enjoyed underminingVladimir’s romantic Russian notions. Vladimir’s final driving test became a day-long ride with Claudia <strong>and</strong> her parentsalong the Georgian Military Road to Kazbegi.One evening Deda took <strong>Konrad</strong> aside. "Would you like to come with me to a sema in Shavnabada?"<strong>Konrad</strong> was taken by surprise. "Lord, are you still going there? I cannot believe it."Tamunia-Deda lowered her eyes. "After you helped me at Easter to throw the skeletons out of the closets of mymarriage, Irakli <strong>and</strong> I have found a new underst<strong>and</strong>ing. The following Easter he came to Zedazeni with me, <strong>and</strong> nowtolerates that I regularly attend the sema in Shavnabada. The Halveji have elected me sema-bashi, dance master, whokeeps the dancers from colliding <strong>and</strong> helps any that have fallen."<strong>Konrad</strong> still could not accept Deda’s involvement in Shavnabada. Pensive, he knew Alex<strong>and</strong>ra would refuse to join him."Are you aware of what happened between Persephone <strong>and</strong> Alex<strong>and</strong>ra after Alex<strong>and</strong>ra’s abduction? Alex<strong>and</strong>ra hassworn never to see Persephone again, <strong>and</strong> you know that she is not going to give in."Deda frowned. "I heard of their meeting only from Persephone <strong>and</strong> know nothing of Alex<strong>and</strong>ra’s vow. Persephone hasbecome older <strong>and</strong> wiser, she has got rid of the man with whom she was living at that time <strong>and</strong> who was a bad influenceon her. She has given up drinking."She raised her h<strong>and</strong> in defense. "Leave Alex<strong>and</strong>ra out of this. I invited you, because I am worried about you. You are notconsumed by professional interests as most men are. Your only real passion is Alex<strong>and</strong>ra. You float through life withoutdirection, <strong>and</strong> let her create the tensions <strong>and</strong> excitements in your marriage."<strong>Konrad</strong> winced, Deda had put her finger on a sore <strong>and</strong> occasionally troublesome aspect of his character."I admire your equanimity," Deda continued. "Look at the intimate relationship between Alex<strong>and</strong>ra <strong>and</strong> Vladimir. Myhusb<strong>and</strong> would not permit me to spend hours with Vladimir teaching him to drive. You have to be blind, if you have notnoticed that Vladimir is in love with her."<strong>Konrad</strong> smiled. "My indecision is occasionally troubling me, but Vladimir is not one of my worries. Deda, it would be sillyof me to point out that we are living in a different age than you <strong>and</strong> Irakli. Alex<strong>and</strong>ra <strong>and</strong> I are sufficiently sure of eachother. We are neither jealous—or at least no longer—nor did I grow up with Irakli’s code of honor. Assuming you weremarried to a different man, could you not imagine that you might have the freedom to have an affair without destroyingyour marriage?"She lowered her eyes. "Maybe I am not free enough. But I can imagine that a love as strong <strong>and</strong> mutual as yours <strong>and</strong>Alex<strong>and</strong>ra’s could survive. Men have always taken the freedom to phil<strong>and</strong>er. But men are more insecure than women,they cannot bear the idea of their wives sleeping with another man. I see what you are saying, in exchange for astronger, more intense <strong>and</strong> more equal relationship between the two of you, you give Alex<strong>and</strong>ra the same freedom whichsociety grants you as a man."She looked questioningly at him. <strong>Konrad</strong> chuckled. "Well, something like that. In practice it is more complex <strong>and</strong> muchmore delicate. This kind of freedom depends on a myriad of emotional factors <strong>and</strong> an unconditional openness betweenthe two partners. It is no cure for a marital dispute, nor should an affair be used to ‘prove’ something to the other. Underthe right circumstances the strength <strong>and</strong> trust that can grow from such an experience is extraordinary, believe me."After a moment’s hesitation <strong>Konrad</strong> continued. "Vladimir has become a trusted friend. He has the ease <strong>and</strong> grace I am140
lacking. I like this man, <strong>and</strong> at the moment I am so happy to be here that I can be generous. Knowing <strong>and</strong> watching thesetwo has not always been easy."Deda shook her head. "I do admire your courage <strong>and</strong> your dedication to Alex<strong>and</strong>ra. You have taken away the raisond’être for my invitation. I really wanted to encourage you to learn the Sufi turn. You are an excellent dancer, it would beeasy for you. You see, turning is a meditative exercise which does not require the head, only purely physical balance.You are a Kopfmensch, it would be very good for you to lose your head on occasion."<strong>Konrad</strong> began to laugh. "Alex<strong>and</strong>ra <strong>and</strong> I just discussed Dahl <strong>and</strong> used the same term to describe him. I am not nearly asinvolved with my head as he. I have learned much about ‘occasionally losing my head’ from your daughter <strong>and</strong> fromHenri."He turned serious. "Maybe you are right. Perhaps I should explore the Sufi way further, which has served Henri so well."Deda, suddenly lively, interrupted him. "And which has helped me to balance my creative side with Irakli’s expectationsas his wife. You sure have guessed by now that I was once as rebellious <strong>and</strong> willfully obstinate as Alex<strong>and</strong>ra. Ilia <strong>and</strong> thetheater were my first great infatuations."She blushed deeply. "But you are right, Robert Dahl is intellectually more introverted than anybody I have ever met. Andno female charm seems to be able to save him. Alex<strong>and</strong>ra has access to him. I suppose Dahl admires her sharp mind."<strong>Konrad</strong> had a sudden inspiration. "Have you discussed your invitation to the sema with Persephone <strong>and</strong> Henri?"She shook her head."Then please ask whether I could bring Vladimir <strong>and</strong> Dahl along. Let me see what I can do to provoke their interest. Butwho will teach me the turn?""Oh," she said coyly, blushing profusely, "the sema-bashi does that!"<strong>Konrad</strong> had a good laugh <strong>and</strong> gave Deda a kiss.Alex<strong>and</strong>ra was puzzled when <strong>Konrad</strong> told her of Deda’s invitation. She said a few unfriendly words about Persephoneadding predictably, "No, thank you, I am not interested in joining you."When <strong>Konrad</strong> told her of his conversation with Deda <strong>and</strong> her suggestion that he should learn the turn, she did modify hercriticism of her mother. But she remained adamant, she did not want to see Persephone again. <strong>Konrad</strong> pulled hissurprise. "I shall try to persuade Dahl <strong>and</strong> Vladimir to come along."Alex<strong>and</strong>ra blinked. "Dahl, after the baptism experience? I don’t know. A sema is a lot more emotional than a baptism.""Exactly for that reason."She shook her head. "Are you going to learn the turn, as Deda suggested? Who is going to teach you?"He made a deliberate pause before he told her with a straight face that her mother would do that.Alex<strong>and</strong>ra laughed harder than ever. "My dear Deda, in love with her son-in-law! Good for her!""Shh, don’t laugh so loud, <strong>and</strong> not a word to anyone, please! Isn’t it charming?"In the evening, alone with Dahl <strong>and</strong> Vladimir over a glass of wine, <strong>Konrad</strong> brought up the subject of the Sufi <strong>and</strong> theirdances. Vladimir listened intently. Dahl referring to the discussion on the Sufiya in Munich <strong>and</strong> Bredow’s excitementasked whether it would be possible to attend such a dance as an outsider.It had not been difficult at all to get Dahl interested in this adventure! <strong>Konrad</strong> smiled. "I have been invited to a sema, <strong>and</strong> Ithink I could take you <strong>and</strong> Vladimir along. Let me talk to Henri <strong>and</strong> the sheikh, a woman named Persephone, as you mayrecall. But I should warn you," <strong>Konrad</strong> laughed, "a sema is considerable more mystical than a Georgian baptism.""What happened in Shavnabada?" asked Alex<strong>and</strong>ra full of curiosity on the evening after the sema. Her parents had goneto the theater with Niko <strong>and</strong> Claudia, <strong>and</strong> they were enjoying a glass of wine with the Dahls <strong>and</strong> Vladimir. <strong>Konrad</strong> made apolite gesture to let Dahl give the report."It was an unforgettable experience. I am afraid I will need some time before I will be able to comprehend what I saw. Atthis moment I am trying to underst<strong>and</strong> the psychological aspects of this dance which seems to have a powerful effect onthe participants."Dahl glanced uncertainly at Alex<strong>and</strong>ra. "But of course, the biggest surprise was to find your Frau Mutter acting as thedance master. When you told us in Munich the stories of Persephone, Henri the goldsmith, <strong>and</strong> your mother’s Easterplay, I considered them versions of a Georgian Thous<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> One Nights. It is confusing to find you, <strong>Konrad</strong> <strong>and</strong> nowyour mother involved in these stories."He laughed briefly. "These experiences are beginning to effect my sense of reality. You are all perfectly real people, whoare acting according to perfectly normal, universal principles, drive cars, enjoy nature, discuss literature <strong>and</strong> art. You,Alex<strong>and</strong>ra, have an exceptionally sharp mind complimented by a great intuitive sensitivity, <strong>and</strong> yet I cannot rid myself ofthe feeling that the society you live in is unreal—at least to my underst<strong>and</strong>ing. Why? It cannot be that the Georgians arefundamentally different from people in the West."Alex<strong>and</strong>ra guessed what Dahl was driving at, but knew it would be difficult to explain the female secrets of Georgia tohim."I owe you a description of the manifestations of ‘matriarchy’ in Georgia, <strong>and</strong> of the role of the woman in the our society."Dahl inclined his head in her direction. "Alex<strong>and</strong>ra this would be very kind of you. I asked your father for an explanation ofyour strange allusions, but he evaded my question. I do suspect that this may be part of the mystery of Georgia which I141
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Table of Contents1. My Grandfather'
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1.My Grandfather's Watch among the
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ditch beside the road.Mother was tr
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Deep snow still covered Djvari Pass
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"But you know nothing about how to
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newborn baby! You won’t need a ba
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Dadiani bent over the table, reache
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Autumn had come to Georgia, and it
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"Gespenstisch!" whispered Mouravi t
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Finally, depressed by his inability
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They slowly rode up the hill north
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On their way back to the Lavra Alex
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Blushing like a young girl, she gav
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Alexandra bowed deeply to a middle-
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All applauded and Ilia made a small
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She had done her hair up in a new w
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ape her. But then he must die, and
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a rear door when she entered.If Per
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Alexandra went purple with embarras
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The smell of roasting lamb wafted t
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Konrad quietly sat back. To his gre
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The tall, dark-haired woman began w
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She kissed him."Maybe you dream of
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14.Tuscany - the Wolfsons' House in
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ut are, unjustly, much more famous.
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Alexandra had fallen into melanchol
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She kissed him tenderly. "Niko, I a
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obligations, and she, ever since th
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months, was flooded with the diffus
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could they be aroused into communal
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19.An unexpected encounter with Vla
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chauffeur drop me at the station ju
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She described her sensation of flyi
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sky a thin, transparent blue. Imbed
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interest in Theosophy."Marti shrugg
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to?Mother had never mentioned any d
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"Ah, of course, of course, ‘Eine
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Konrad agreed that this sounded mor
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patriarchal oak and smiled, a littl
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have a similar situation in our vil
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Alexandra disagreed. "Most abortive
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a limited edition, hand-screened ma
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Alexandra touched her necklace and
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His hair had turned completely whit
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Overnight the mood in St. Petersbur
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daughter. His wife had left him no
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which was presented to him—with a
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"From the soldiers whom I took care
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He watched Alexandra’s doubting m
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lond, bony girl whose gray eyes loo
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call it intellectual humanism. It d
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time I asked this question I had me
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"I spent most of the winter of 1918
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We buried him in the cemetery at G
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ways. Corruption became the way of
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68.A Concert in Kreuth - Eliso1989I
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Eliso listened with increasing fasc