12.11.2012 Views

The DARKROOM COOKBOOK, Third Edition

The DARKROOM COOKBOOK, Third Edition

The DARKROOM COOKBOOK, Third Edition

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

Create successful ePaper yourself

Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.

80 THE <strong>DARKROOM</strong> <strong>COOKBOOK</strong><br />

Image Color Through Direct Development<br />

Neutral Tones Neutral-tone developers produce images with the least amount of bias toward<br />

either warm or cold tones. This does not mean that some bias may not exist, depending<br />

on the paper, only that it will be less pronounced than if a warm- or cold-tone developer<br />

is used.<br />

Some papers will have a slight greenish cast when developed in a neutral-tone developer.<br />

Should this occur, either use less bromide or substitute Edwal’s Liquid Orthazite or benzotriazole<br />

for the bromide. This can be done by eliminating the bromide altogether or lessening the<br />

amount and adding a small amount of benzotriazole (see Cold Tones, below). Selenium toning,<br />

after fi xing, will also help to eliminate any green cast.<br />

Warm Tones <strong>The</strong>re are many ways in which to achieve warm tones, although the results will differ<br />

according to the type of paper used as previously noted. As a general rule, print developers<br />

using only hydroquinone produce a warm tone, and those using only glycin produce a brown<br />

tone. <strong>The</strong> difference being that brown tone refers to the specifi c color, brown, whereas warm<br />

tone encompasses all shades and nuances of brown, including that with a red or yellow bias.<br />

For the rest of this chapter I will use warm tone to refer to all shades of brown. Some methods<br />

to create warm/brown tones are as follows:<br />

● Use less carbonate. <strong>The</strong> less carbonate used the warmer the tone. <strong>The</strong> use of too little carbonate,<br />

however, will result in a fl at, muddy print.<br />

● Substitute potassium carbonate for sodium carbonate. Besides creating warmer tones it can be<br />

used in stronger concentrations for increased contrast.<br />

● Increase the amount of bromide. If the tones are not warm enough, add between 30.0 and 125.0 ml<br />

of a 10% bromide solution. After that, increase by 30.0 ml until the image tone is satisfactory or fogging<br />

occurs (see Bromide and Carbonate, below). This works with most, but not all, developers.<br />

● Increase print exposure and shorten development times. Often this method will create warmer<br />

tones.<br />

● Choose a warm-tone developer. This will enhance any warm tones inherent in the paper.<br />

● Dilute a fresh developer with up to 50% used developer. If you like warm tones in your images,<br />

keep a bottle of used developer on the shelf for this purpose. Glycin-based developers work well.<br />

● Tone the print after processing is complete.<br />

Redevelopment Method <strong>The</strong> halide type and composition of any given paper has some effect on the<br />

image tone. However, as manufacturers don’t typically release this information, except in a general<br />

context (bromide, chlorobromide, chloride), it is impossible to know beforehand what the<br />

composition is. <strong>The</strong> technique of redevelopment eliminates the need to know, as it reduces all<br />

halide in the emulsion to silver bromide, which can then be redeveloped and toned.<br />

To use this method, expose, develop in a neutral tone developer, fi x, and wash a print<br />

in the usual manner. Next, use Print Rehalogenating Bleach (Formulas: Print Reducers: Print<br />

Rehalogenating Bleach) to convert all silver metal to silver bromide. <strong>The</strong>n rinse for 5 minutes<br />

and redevelop using any toning developer of your choice (this includes cold-tone<br />

developers).

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!