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The DARKROOM COOKBOOK, Third Edition

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Photographic Reduction and Intensifi cation 129<br />

● Intensifi cation may take place in room light.<br />

● Negatives should be well washed and wet. If they have been dried, soak them for 5 minutes<br />

before intensifying.<br />

● Some intensifi ers can cause a color change to the negative which may affect printing with multicontrast<br />

papers.<br />

Chromium Intensifi er Chromium intensifi er is a proportional intensifi er; the amount of intensifi cation<br />

is proportional to the amount of silver present in the negative. <strong>The</strong>refore, denser areas of<br />

the negative are affected more than thin areas. Chromium intensifi cation is useful for increasing<br />

contrast since it has little effect on thin, shadow areas. To be effective, chromium intensifi -<br />

cation must often be repeated several times.<br />

<strong>The</strong> two main ingredients in chromium intensifi er—potassium dichromate and hydrochloric<br />

acid—are both hazardous chemicals. Hydrochloric acid can burn a hole in your<br />

skin, and dichromate can cause serious skin irritation. Handle chromium intensifi er with<br />

gloves and use a respirator, observing all safety precautions (Appendix 1: Safety in Handling<br />

Photographic Chemicals).<br />

Instructions for Chromium Intensifi cation Two formulas for chromium intensifi cation are given in<br />

the Formula section. Intensifi er #1 gives more intensifi cation than #2.<br />

Negatives to be intensifi ed with chromium should fi rst be hardened either in the fi xer or<br />

after fi xing in a hardening bath. Failure to do so may cause the gelatin to reticulate and ruin<br />

the negative.<br />

Immerse the negatives in the bath until completely bleached; this converts the silver<br />

image into a combination of chloride and chromium compound. <strong>The</strong> negative is then<br />

washed until completely free from yellow stain, about 5 minutes, and redeveloped with a<br />

normal developer (not a fi ne-grain developer) until the image has blackened completely.<br />

A good developer to use for redevelopment is Kodak D-72 1:3. After redevelopment, fi x<br />

the negative for 3 to 5 minutes, and then wash thoroughly and dry. One advantage of using<br />

chromium is that if suffi cient intensifi cation is not achieved, the process may be repeated.<br />

Silver Intensifi cation Silver intensifi cation has a noticeable effect on low values, which is where<br />

thin, underexposed negatives usually need help. It does, however, have the unfortunate habit<br />

of staining everything black. Wear gloves and try not to get it on your hands or clothes, but<br />

if you accidentally stain yourself, try using the Developer Stain Remover for Hands found<br />

in Formulas. Instructions for silver intensifi cation will be found in Formulas: Negative<br />

Intensifi ers: Kodak IN-5 Silver Intensifi er.<br />

Sepia Intensifi cation Bleach and redevelop sepia toners, such as Ansco 221 Sepia Toner or Kodak<br />

T-7a Sulfi de Sepia Toner, are more effective than chromium intensifi er and will provide maximum<br />

archival protection for your negatives. <strong>The</strong> reason for the latter is explained more fully<br />

in Chapter 10, Toning Prints: Protective Toners, though simply put, converting an image from<br />

silver metal to silver sulfi de makes the image as permanent as it possibly can be.

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