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The DARKROOM COOKBOOK, Third Edition

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TONER TEST STRIPS<br />

Toning Prints 111<br />

Each toner/variation responds differently to different paper and developer combinations. For<br />

that reason, it is a good idea to make a swatch book for your toning experiments. This can be<br />

done using reject prints cut into strips. Ideally the print should be one that almost succeeded<br />

or perhaps a perfect print that has been damaged at some point. In any event they should be<br />

neither too dark nor too light and contain a full range of tones. Fix and wash these prints as<br />

you would any other and save them to make toner test strips.<br />

To make toner test strips:<br />

1. Cut the print into eight strips. <strong>The</strong> strips can be horizontal or vertical sections, whichever direction<br />

contains the most information.<br />

2. One strip is not toned but held aside for reference.<br />

3. <strong>The</strong> second is toned for fi fteen seconds, the third for thirty seconds, the fourth for one minute,<br />

the fi fth for two minutes, the sixth for four minutes, the seventh for eight minutes, and the last<br />

for sixteen minutes. If the published formula for the toner calls for a longer initial time than sixteen<br />

minutes adjust the test accordingly.<br />

4. Write on the back of each strip the toner and the time. Keep them in a swatch book for reference.<br />

It is not necessary to make test strips with toners that are meant to work to completion,<br />

such as bleach and redevelop toners (for example, hypo-alum, sepia, etc.), as partial toning<br />

will result in an unstable fi nal print. However, it may be desirable to tone a single strip of a<br />

correctly exposed and developed print and keep it among the toning swatches.<br />

TYPES OF TONERS<br />

<strong>The</strong>re are two basic methods for toning prints. <strong>The</strong> fi rst is by direct toning without the use of<br />

bleach and the second is by conversion, known as bleach-and-redeveloping.<br />

Direct Toners<br />

<strong>The</strong>re are four categories of direct toners.<br />

1. Those which bond an inorganic compound directly to the silver in the image, in effect coating it<br />

(Formulas: Toners: Kodak GP-1 and GP-2 Gold Protective Solution and Nelson Gold Toner).<br />

2. Those that convert the silver image into silver selenide (Formulas: Toners: Dassonville T-55<br />

Direct Selenium Toner).<br />

3. Those that replace the silver with another metal. <strong>The</strong> compounds produced are usually either<br />

ferricyanide (Formulas: Toners: Copper Toner, Dassonville T-5 Copper Toner) or iron (Formulas:<br />

Blue Toners: Ansco 241 Iron Blue Toner). <strong>The</strong>se are also known as replacement toners.<br />

4. Organic dye toners, which penetrate the emulsion and tint the white portions of the paper as well.<br />

Bleach-and-Redevelopment Toners<br />

Bleach-and-redevelopment (B&R) toners bleach the silver to a pale color and then redevelop<br />

it to a new color. Most two-bath B&R toners are of the warm-tone sepia/sulfi de-type

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