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The DARKROOM COOKBOOK, Third Edition

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142 THE <strong>DARKROOM</strong> <strong>COOKBOOK</strong><br />

● It doesn’t hurt the fi lm to be left in the wash.<br />

● Because it is diffi cult to re-spool wet fi lm onto plastic reels use stainless steel reels only.<br />

● Do not splash water on the hot light bulb.<br />

● Do not allow the fi lm to get too close to the bulb in order to avoid heat damage.<br />

● It’s a good idea to keep a pair of sunglasses handy!<br />

9. Second developer. Do not use thiocyanate or thiosulfate in the second developer. You<br />

may use D-72 (Dektol) 1:2 for 3 minutes at 68F/20C, Kodak D-19, or any other energetic<br />

developer.<br />

10. It is important to use a full-strength stop bath after the second developer in order to stop development<br />

in the shortest possible time. This will also help to clear the highlights and aid in archival<br />

preservation.<br />

11. Rinse for 1 minute.<br />

12. Fix in an acid fi xer without hardener such as ATF-1. Do not use an alkaline fi xer.<br />

13. Rinse in half strength Hypo Clearing Agent.<br />

14. Wash thoroughly to insure the removal of all excess chemistry.<br />

15. Dry as usual.<br />

INTERPOSITIVE<br />

<strong>The</strong> drawback to using an interpositive, as opposed to an original positive, is that each generation<br />

of negative to positive and back to negative gains contrast and suffers some loss of<br />

tonality. However, when using alternative printing processes the amount of gain and loss are<br />

often inconsequential. If you fi nd your image quality compromised then the best method is<br />

to make original positives. Otherwise, it is usually easier to make an enlarged negative from<br />

an interpositive.<br />

When making an interpositive it is important to keep the original negative and glass<br />

clean. Any dust will appear as a white spot on the interpositive, a black spot on the negative,<br />

and fi nally as a white or gray spot on the fi nal print. All though it is not diffi cult to retouch<br />

light spots on a print it is more work down the line.<br />

Making an Interpositive<br />

Compared to reversal processing making an interpositive takes practically no time at all. In<br />

fact, except for the time it takes for the fi lm to dry it seems almost instantaneous!<br />

To make an interpositive you will need the following:<br />

1. 4 � 5 inch Ortho fi lm. Adox 25 ORT, available from Freestyle Photographic Sales (FPS), is a good<br />

choice.<br />

2. An 8 � 10 inch contact proofi ng frame. <strong>The</strong>se are available from both FPS and Photographers’<br />

Formulary (PF).<br />

3. Wratten No. 1A or 2 red safelight with a 15- to 25-watt bulb or equivalent.<br />

4. Kodak Dektol, D-72, Photographers’ Formulary TD-3, or similar developer.

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