12.11.2012 Views

The DARKROOM COOKBOOK, Third Edition

The DARKROOM COOKBOOK, Third Edition

The DARKROOM COOKBOOK, Third Edition

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.

Rescuing Thin Shadows<br />

Saïd Nuseibeh<br />

Printing Methods and Techniques 97<br />

I learned this simple trick from Ruth Bernhard while printing her negative, Rockport<br />

Nude. <strong>The</strong> fi gure in Ruth’s negative has wonderful mid-tone and highlight contrast but<br />

is very fl at in the shadows. It is diffi cult to retain the contours of the model’s exquisitely<br />

muscular physique as they recede into shadow.<br />

Ruth suggested I make a series of non-image, stepped exposures on black and<br />

white fi lm using the enlarger. <strong>The</strong>se become a group of neutral density fi lms that, when<br />

sandwiched with the original negative, raise important shadow areas off the toe of the<br />

paper’s responsiveness to light. As the shadow exposure moves into the straight-line<br />

portion of the H&D curve, the contrast increases, thereby giving more separation to this<br />

area than is otherwise possible.<br />

To make the ND fi lms I used a small right-angled jig made from black poster board<br />

taped to the baseboard. This allowed me to slip the fi lm repeatedly into the same position<br />

under the lens. I did not use a contact printing frame or glass because that would<br />

merely provide another opportunity for dust to compromise the result. I also placed a<br />

piece of matte black paper under the fi lm during exposure to make sure there were no<br />

refl ections or stray light striking the fi lm. I made each ND fi lm using 4 � 5 inch Plus-X,<br />

emulsion side up, and developed in HC-110 with a weaker dilution than normal. If I was<br />

to do this today, I would use T-Max or any other fi ne-grain continuous tone fi lm.<br />

Film requires much less exposure than one is accustomed to in the darkroom.<br />

I raised the enlarger to the maximum height and stopped the lens down to its smallest<br />

aperture. Ultimately, I was forced to add ND fi lters to the light path as well. While my<br />

timer will make exposure distinctions in the tenths-of-seconds, I prefer to work in the<br />

tens-of-seconds because I have found that the results are more repeatable.<br />

If you decide to make your own ND fi lms the problem to watch out for, next to<br />

dust, is that the illumination might not be even at the position of exposure. Clean the<br />

enlarging lens and carefully scrutinize the results on fi lm in order to identify any irregularities<br />

or fall-off in tone. Of course, it is more common to obtain irregular densities via<br />

uneven development than from uneven illumination.<br />

Double-check that there is no stray light in the darkroom. This includes LEDs<br />

on timers and temperature control units. <strong>The</strong>n go through dry runs of the operation<br />

because you will be working in complete darkness. You will need to be able to adjust<br />

your exposure time for at least a 4-stop range in half-stop increments. I adjusted my<br />

setup to enable exposures (in seconds) of 4, 6, 8, 12, 16, 23, 30, 45, and 60.<br />

Test to determine the proper exposure and development to give the fi rst discernible<br />

or meaningful density above “fi lm base � fog.” This can be done with a densitometer<br />

or by developing a single sheet of unexposed fi lm with which to compare against.<br />

I tested using ND fi lters under the lens to achieve this density at 4 seconds. Once you<br />

have this benchmark, then make approximately nine exposures, doubling the time

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!