The DARKROOM COOKBOOK, Third Edition

Planning a Darkroom 11
for modern emulsions). Panchromatic papers (for example, discontinued Kodak Panalure®
Select RC) are sensitive to all colors and require the use of a low-intensity Kodak #3 darkgreen
fi lter. Orthochromatic or red-blind materials such as high-contrast line fi lms (also
known as lith fi lms) used in the graphic arts, can be handled using a high-intensity Kodak #1A
or 2 red fi lter.
Except in very small darkrooms you should use more than one safelight. The primary
light should be placed so that the illumination is evenly distributed over the entire area. This
could be a safelight aimed at the ceiling, especially if the ceiling is painted fl at white. A second
location would be over the processing sink. Place the safelight at least four feet above the
sink. If the light is aimed down, use a 15-watt frosted bulb. If it is bounced off a white ceiling
use a 25-watt frosted bulb. If your darkroom is large enough, place a third safelight over the
dry side in the same manner as over the wet side. If the size of your darkroom warrants it, use
a Thomas Sodium Vapor Duplex Safelight.
TEMPORARY DARKROOMS
There are many small spaces that can be converted for darkroom use: a bathroom, a closet, or
storage shed in the backyard. Temporary work spaces can be made in a bathroom by placing
a 12 inch-wide board from the top of the toilet to the edge of the bathroom sink, or a piece
of plywood covering the bathtub. You can use a short stool to sit on. Or, you can attach legs
to the board; raising it to a more comfortable work height. These can be folding legs, for ease
of storage.
Finally, you can build a portable darkroom on a rolling cart. Substantial carts can be purchased
that are designed as kitchen islands or butcher blocks on wheels. Chemicals, paper,
etc. can be stored on the shelves, dodging tools and the like in the drawers, and the enlarger
used and stored on top. The whole thing can be wheeled into the kitchen after the dishes are
washed and then wheeled into a closet or the garage for storage.
For a lot less money and a little effort it is easy to build a cart to your specifi cations using
2 � 2 inch lumber and 3/4 inch to 1 inch plywood (do not use 1/2 inch plywood as it will
not stay fl at). Removing your enlarger from the baseboard it comes with and bolting it directly
to the far edge of the plywood will greatly increase your working space and lower the top of
the enlarger by an inch or so, making it easier to roll through doorways.
The top of the cart should be about 30 inches to 32 inches from the ground depending
on 1) your height, or 2) the height of the doorways you need to maneuver through. Attach
good-quality rolling casters to the feet so that the table with the enlarger moves smoothly
across the fl oor. You can extend the top with a hinged fl ap on one or both ends with hardware
available from a hardware store. This will allow the cart to take up less room for storage.
Attach a piece of plywood across the bottom and add a shelf in the middle—both should be
bounded by 2 � 4 inches lumber or strips of excess plywood to keep things from falling off
when you are moving the cart around. Store wet-side materials, such as liquids, trays, etc., on
the bottom shelf and dry-side materials, such as powders, focusing devices, easels, and a paper
safe on the middle shelf so they do not inadvertently get dripped on. See Figure 1-6.