The DARKROOM COOKBOOK, Third Edition

Planning a Darkroom 3
Core® available from art suppliers. If your space doesn’t have a door which can be closed,
cover the opening in the same manner or purchase an inexpensive hollow-core door from a
builder’s supply store (more of this in the section on ventilation).
Sealing the light around the door is not diffi cult either. Spend a few minutes browsing
in the weather stripping section of any hardware or building supply outlet, and you will
fi nd many self-adhesive products that can be applied to the frame or the door. A two-by-four
nailed to the fl oor along the bottom edge of the door and a good door sweep will take care
of most of the light leakage along the bottom edge. You can also purchase an automatic door
sweep that adjusts to irregular fl oor surfaces.
As a fi nal step, paint the door jambs with fl at black paint.
VENTILATION
Making a darkroom light-tight may be desirable. Making it air-tight can be hazardous. All darkrooms
should be well-ventilated.
Proper ventilation in the darkroom is the fi rst, and possibly most important, expense,
even before an enlarger and lens. Make it a priority to build a darkroom that is healthy and
comfortable to work in. Add equipment as you can afford it.
If your darkroom work is limited to fi lm development in a daylight tank over the kitchen
sink, ventilation is not an issue. If you have a situation like Brett Weston’s, in which all the
doors and windows can be left open, no problem. But as soon as you enclose a space, be it a
closet, bathroom, or a specially built room, proper ventilation is of utmost importance.
Lack of fresh air can cause a buildup of toxic fumes, which, though not usually lethal, can
cause drowsiness and headaches. In addition to fumes and stale air, heat from the enlarger
lamp, or even from outside if you live in a warm clime, can cause you to leave early and
unconsciously avoid spending time in the darkroom.
Current OSHA and EPA studies indicate that proper ventilation means an active exhaust
fan, to remove toxic fumes, and a passive vent, or active fan, to admit fresh air. Ideally, the
exhaust fan should be placed above the processing sink in order to draw the fumes directly
from the processing trays. The passive vent should be low to the ground, usually, though not
necessarily, opposite the exhaust fan. Both need to be light-tight.
The best way to ventilate a small darkroom is to purchase a light-tight exhaust fan. This is
an investment that is as important as an enlarger, and you should not cut corners. The small,
round, passive air vents available from retail outlets may be good to facilitate air fl ow in a
small space, but do not consider them a substitute for real ventilation. A darkroom requires
active ventilation.
If the darkroom is in a closet, install a fan at the top of the door, drawing air out, and a passive
vent at the bottom, allowing fresh air in. If you’re renting a house or apartment, remove
and store the landlord’s door and replace it with a door of your own. When you move, replace
the landlord’s original door, keeping your ventilator door intact for the next darkroom.
If a window is available, the fan can be mounted on a removable Masonite® board. The
Masonite should be attached to a lightweight wooden frame that fi ts over the window to
block light. After a darkroom session, the complete Masonite board and light-tight fan can be
removed and stored.