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The DARKROOM COOKBOOK, Third Edition

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REPLENISHMENT OF DEVELOPERS<br />

Film Development 49<br />

Several of the fi lm developers included in <strong>The</strong> Darkroom Cookbook have companion replenishers<br />

whose formulas are also given. However, I do not recommend the use of replenishment<br />

unless you are operating a high-volume lab. <strong>The</strong>re is no advantage or savings in replenishing<br />

for most small-volume, home darkrooms, and there are numerous disadvantages. Among them<br />

are the possibility of bromide buildup, resulting in bromide drag, developer oxidation, and<br />

inconsistent results.<br />

PUSH PROCESSING<br />

One of my early infl uences in photography, Rodger Davidson, told me, “You can’t push fi lm!<br />

All you are doing is underexposing and attempting to compensate in the development! Don’t<br />

you know, if it’s not on the fi lm you can’t develop it?”<br />

Technically, Rodger was right—you can’t push fi lm. But in situations where it is necessary<br />

to squeeze the last nth of shutter speed and maintain as much depth of fi eld as possible, get<br />

an image on the fi lm and do whatever has to be done in the darkroom to make a good print.<br />

Pushing fi lm means to ignore the manufacturer’s ISO rating and creating your own<br />

Exposure Index (EI) by setting your ISO dial at a higher number. 6 For example, instead of<br />

using Ilford HP5� at its factory rating of ISO 400, you would set the ISO dial to EI 1600, EI<br />

3200, or even EI 6400. To be successful requires a developer that will reduce the maximum<br />

amount of silver possible. Crawley’s FX 11 and Diafi ne-type developers are designed for that<br />

purpose. However, using high-energy developers such as these usually results in increased<br />

fog levels and graininess. Instead, I recommend using D-76H, Kodak T-Max developer, Kodak<br />

XTOL, or Ilford DD-X. Paul Lewis’ Mytol formula, a substitute for XTOL which you can mix<br />

yourself, can be found under Formulas.<br />

Almost any panchromatic fi lm made today can be pushed one stop with little or no discernible<br />

loss in quality. For example, Kodak Tri-X can easily be pushed to EI 800 and Ilford<br />

Delta 3200 (which is closer to EI 1200 than it is to ISO 3200) can easily be pushed one stop<br />

to EI 2400. Try adding 25% to the normal development time for Tri-X, and 25% to 40% with<br />

other fi lms for a one stop push. With testing and experience, you should be able to capture<br />

almost any event on fi lm, regardless of how little ambient light is present. (See Yuette at the<br />

Coffee House on page 53.)<br />

Increasing Film Speed<br />

Increasing fi lm speed is not the same as pushing. Pushing, as noted above, is to underexpose<br />

and overdevelop the fi lm by simply turning the ISO dial to a higher EI and overdeveloping.<br />

Beyond one stop the primary result is a negative with loss of shadow detail and over developed<br />

highlights. Increasing fi lm speed is a process by which the fi lm's ability to respond to<br />

low levels of light and record detail in shadow areas is increased.<br />

6 ISO is the speed rating of the fi lm as per factory specifi cations, determined through controlled testing;<br />

EI is any speed other than the factory spec ISO that you choose to use.

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