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The DARKROOM COOKBOOK, Third Edition

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Planning a Darkroom 9<br />

Floors call for special consideration. <strong>The</strong>y need to be protected against moisture and chemical<br />

action. <strong>The</strong> best material is concrete with a chemical-resistant coating. <strong>The</strong> next best is<br />

good-quality linoleum, which should be kept clean and well waxed to help prevent the penetration<br />

of spilled solutions. This can be underlain with bitumen paper as an extra precaution<br />

against liquids getting through and damaging the sub-fl oor. A drain is useful but not entirely<br />

necessary if the fl oor is dried after spills.<br />

A chemical-resistant anti-fatigue fl oor mat is another good idea. An anti-fatigue mat will<br />

help you work longer and more comfortably, especially if your darkroom is in a basement or<br />

garage with a concrete fl oor. <strong>The</strong> mat will also insulate you from the cold.<br />

Cabinets, Benches, and Sinks<br />

Benches for a darkroom can be built by a cabinetmaker, purchased ready-made as modular<br />

kitchen units, or built by you. Sinks can also be purchased or made. I prefer a sink at least<br />

6 feet long, preferably 8 � 10 foot. However, many photographers must make do with four<br />

foot sinks. A four foot sink will accommodate three 11 � 14 inch trays. A six foot sink will<br />

accommodate four 11 � 14 inch trays with barely enough room for a vertical print washer.<br />

If you do not normally make prints larger than 8 � 10 inches, a 4 foot sink is adequate. If you<br />

need additional space, use a set of tray ladders.<br />

If your space is minimal you will need to run a galvanized wire or clothesline over the<br />

sink to hang fi lm for drying—or use the bathroom as previously mentioned. If you use the<br />

sink option the fi lm won’t be able to hang straight (a 36-exposure roll is about 5 foot long).<br />

Attach both ends to the line via clothespins or fi lm clips.<br />

Storage Space<br />

Whereas counter space for the enlarger and room for the sink is essential, ample storage and<br />

shelves are what make small darkrooms effi cient.<br />

A light-tight “dark” drawer (Figure 1-4) located near the enlarger is an added convenience.<br />

This will provide quick access to printing paper and eliminate the necessity of opening and<br />

closing the package of paper every time you need a sheet.<br />

To make a dark drawer, install a sliding lid that fi ts in a groove around the top perimeter<br />

of the drawer. Paint the inside, including the lid, fl at black. Attach a small block of wood on<br />

the top of the lid and another on the underside of the countertop. <strong>The</strong> blocks of wood will<br />

push the lid closed when you close the drawer. If you do not have a dark drawer use a paper<br />

safe, even though it occupies valuable counter space.<br />

You can use the sink for mixing chemicals and for all processing operations. Storage<br />

space for trays and chemical solutions should be beneath the sink. Shelves mounted two<br />

feet above both the sink and enlarger bench will provide additional storage space for bottles<br />

of stock solution, timers, thermometers, and other small equipment. Wooden pegs mounted<br />

on the side or splash wall (shown in Figure 1-5) provide a place for fi lm hangers and graduates.<br />

A towel holder mounted on or near the sink provides a place for a towel to dry your<br />

hands.

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