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The DARKROOM COOKBOOK, Third Edition

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94 THE <strong>DARKROOM</strong> <strong>COOKBOOK</strong><br />

How it Works<br />

Pre and Post Flashing to Control Contrast<br />

Les McLean<br />

<strong>The</strong> initial exposure to white light will produce no tone on enlarging paper—it simply<br />

eliminates the paper’s inertia to light. <strong>The</strong>refore, when exposing the paper with a negative<br />

in the enlarger a certain amount of the exposure is not producing tone, and more<br />

importantly, detail. Flashing is a method of controlling contrast by pre-sensitizing the<br />

paper with an exposure to white light that overcomes the paper’s inertia.<br />

When fl ashing is employed, all units of image-forming exposure passed through the<br />

negative will produce tone, therefore less exposure is required. Consequently, because<br />

of the reduced image forming exposure the lower values are less likely to block up,<br />

resulting in better separation in the shadows. At the other end of the tonal scale, the<br />

highlight detail is improved because, in effect, the paper is getting more exposure to<br />

the image-forming light that produces tone and detail. Because the inertia is overcome<br />

by the white light fl ashing exposure all light transmitted through the negative is “working”<br />

to ensure that the detail on the negative is recorded on the paper, hence the lowering<br />

of overall contrast and the improvement of detail throughout.<br />

In describing how I make the prints illustrating this method, I use two terms to<br />

describe the light: White light and Image-forming light. White light is any source of light<br />

that can be used for fl ashing, for example an enlarger with no negative in the carrier, or<br />

the Paper Flasher® that I use. However, it is important that you can accurately control<br />

the time of the exposure and that the light source will provide consistent illumination.<br />

Image-forming light is the light projected on to the baseboard by the enlarger with the<br />

negative in place.<br />

A second light source is required, preferably attached to an accurate timer to make the<br />

fl ashing exposure. A second enlarger will do but I prefer the Paper Flasher manufactured<br />

by RH Designs, which can easily be attached to the enlarger. I fi nd it quick, convenient<br />

and accurate (see Resources).<br />

A second method is to leave the negative in the carrier and place a piece of diffusing<br />

material, such as Opal Perspex under the lens, similar to the procedure used when<br />

employing a color analyzer in color printing. This method will make the fl ashing exposures<br />

quite lengthy.<br />

Making the Pre-Flash Test Strip<br />

Use a full 8 � 10 inch sheet of enlarging paper to make your pre-fl ash test strip or cut<br />

a piece into 1 � 10 inch strips. With the paper held fl at in an easel, use a black card to<br />

cover a 1 inch section of the test strip—this strip will receive no exposure and remain<br />

paper-base white.<br />

With a pencil put indicator marks at about 1 inch intervals along the edge of the<br />

test strip, 8 to 10 should be suffi cient. Expose the test strip to white light in the same<br />

way as you would when making a normal test strip, I use 1- or 2-second intervals. Move<br />

the card in sequence through each of the remaining indicator marks exposing for the

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