12.11.2012 Views

The DARKROOM COOKBOOK, Third Edition

The DARKROOM COOKBOOK, Third Edition

The DARKROOM COOKBOOK, Third Edition

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

Create successful ePaper yourself

Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.

82 THE <strong>DARKROOM</strong> <strong>COOKBOOK</strong><br />

Start by adding 25.0 ml of stock solution of a high or normal contrast developer, such as D-72,<br />

to each liter of working solution low contrast developer, such as Ansco 120 1:1.<br />

By combining different developers, a variety of image colors can be achieved. For example,<br />

combining D-72 with Ansco 120 will produce one image color, while using Agfa 108 and<br />

Agfa 105 will produce a different color. <strong>The</strong> color will vary with the paper and the amount of<br />

each developer.<br />

<strong>The</strong> disadvantage of combining developers is that the high or normal contrast developer,<br />

which usually contains hydroquinone, may exhaust before the low contrast developer.<br />

This is not a problem if only a few prints are to be made from one negative, which<br />

is often the case when using developers in this way. However, if consistency is important<br />

for a large number of prints, it is important to make certain there is suffi cient high/<br />

normal contrast developer in solution.<br />

<strong>The</strong> general rule is to use a minimum of 10.0 ml of undiluted high/normal contrast developer<br />

for each 8 � 10 inch print. This may lead to doubling, or even tripling, the initial volume. For<br />

example, through testing you have found that 25.0 ml of D-72 in 1.0 liter of Ansco 120 1:1<br />

produces the desired print result. That means that 4.0 liters of Ansco 120 1:1 and 100.0 ml of<br />

D-72 should be good for at least 10 consistent prints.<br />

Two-Tray Development A variation of this technique is to use two separate developers, usually a lowcontrast<br />

formula, such as Ansco 120, and a high or normal contrast developer, such as Ansco<br />

130 or Kodak D-72. Development begins in the low-contrast solution and is completed in<br />

the high or normal contrast developer. For this application, you may wish to dilute the lowcontrast<br />

developer as much as 1:3 or 1:4 and use the high/normal contrast developer at 1:1<br />

or undiluted. <strong>The</strong> time in each developer can be varied, though the minimum time in the<br />

high/normal contrast developer is usually about 15 seconds if any effect is to be had. A good<br />

starting point would be to develop the print for 90 seconds in the low-contrast developer, and<br />

30 seconds in the high/normal developer, although as much as a 50/50 time split may be used.<br />

A 10-second drain between developers will help minimize cross contamination.<br />

Water Bath Development Water bath development is a technique that allows you to split paper<br />

grades by placing the paper in a tray of standing water in order to allow the highlights to continue<br />

to develop. Because amidol is an exceedingly active developing agent it is considered to<br />

be a good choice for water bath development.<br />

<strong>The</strong> technique could not be much simpler. Use the next higher grade of paper or fi lter<br />

than the desired fi nal contrast you want in the print. For example, if the desired contrast is<br />

somewhere between grade 1 and grade 2, use grade 2 paper. Develop the paper using an<br />

amidol formula then move it immediately, without draining, to a bath of fresh water. Slide<br />

the paper under the water and let it sit without any agitation. <strong>The</strong> developing agent in the<br />

shadow areas will quickly exhaust, while the developing agent in the thinly exposed highlight<br />

areas will continue to work. <strong>The</strong> mid-tones will be relatively unaffected.<br />

As with two-tray development, the time in each developer can be varied, though the minimum<br />

time in the amidol is about 1 minute. However, too long in the water bath could result<br />

in streaking. A good starting point would be to develop the print for 90 seconds in the amidol,<br />

and 30 seconds in the water bath. Keep an eye on the shadow areas of the print. When they<br />

appear to be about 80% complete, move the print to the water bath.

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!