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The DARKROOM COOKBOOK, Third Edition

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Reversal Processing<br />

and Enlarged Negatives<br />

Photography is 90% sheer, brutal drudgery. <strong>The</strong> other 10% is inspiration!<br />

—Brett Weston<br />

Since the fi rst edition of <strong>The</strong> Darkroom Cookbook, there have been an increasing number of<br />

photographers who have become interested in practicing alternative processes. <strong>The</strong> interest<br />

has become so great that in 1999 the Photographers’ Formulary, one of the leading providers<br />

of photographic chemicals, established a school largely dedicated to teaching alternative<br />

processes. Because of this surge in interest, this edition of the Cookbook includes this chapter<br />

on reversal processing and enlarging negatives.<br />

Alternative processes are many and varied. <strong>The</strong> list includes carbro, carbon, bromoil,<br />

gum printing, platinum/palladium (plt/pld), salted paper, Ambrotype, albumen, kallitype,<br />

photogravure, collotype, Woodburytype, and cyanotype. Except for the fi rst two, carbro<br />

and carbon, all of these processes are made by contact printing a negative onto a sensitized<br />

material. From a practical point of view, this means that a 35 mm negative will produce a<br />

print approximately 1 � 1.5 inches. While this may satisfy some, most photographers prefer<br />

slightly larger prints.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re are three techniques for producing an enlarged negative for contact printing, and<br />

none are particularly diffi cult. <strong>The</strong> easiest technique is to copy a print made from an original<br />

negative using a large-format camera. <strong>The</strong> procedure is to fi rst make a fi ne print in the<br />

darkroom with all the dodging, burning, and manipulation required, then place two lights on<br />

either side of the print at an angle of 45 degrees, measure the light falling on the center of the<br />

print with an incident light meter. <strong>The</strong> large-format camera should be placed straight on and<br />

square to the print with no swings or tilts—everything zeroed.<br />

<strong>The</strong> problem with this method is that if you already have an 8 � 10 inch or 11 � 14 inch<br />

view camera with which to copy prints you are probably already making large negatives anyway<br />

and can skip this chapter. On the assumption that you purchase a large-format camera<br />

for the express purpose of making enlarged negatives keep the following in mind. <strong>The</strong> camera<br />

itself is not important as long as the bellows is in good condition and the camera doesn’t<br />

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