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The DARKROOM COOKBOOK, Third Edition

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118 THE <strong>DARKROOM</strong> <strong>COOKBOOK</strong><br />

Toning: Workfl ow, Pitfalls, Choices and Preferences<br />

Tim Rudman<br />

<strong>The</strong>re really is nothing inherently diffi cult about toning.<br />

But there are many different toners out there, and as most can be used either singly<br />

or in a number of permutations with a range of papers, which in turn can react to toners<br />

differently, there is considerable potential for confusion or catastrophe. So it pays to<br />

keep things simple and become thoroughly familiar with a few basic combinations, adding<br />

more as experience grows.<br />

<strong>The</strong> pre-toning workfl ow is vitally important, for it is a fact that many of the toning<br />

blotches, splashes, streaks, fi ngerprints, and other unwelcome surprises that can appear<br />

out of nowhere in the toning bath are caused before you ever reach for the toner, and<br />

although you may get away with overworked chemicals and sloppy technique for<br />

untoned black and white prints, these indulgences will come back to haunt you at many<br />

of the toning stages. With a little care and diligence these pitfalls are easily avoided.<br />

Fresh chemicals, full, even and timed development, no fi ngering or poking in the<br />

image area, full, (but not excessive) fresh fi xing without hardener must be the order of<br />

the day, avoiding cross contamination, chemical splashes, and ensuring prints do not lie<br />

overlapping in any of the solutions. (I am no longer surprised at workshops when I see<br />

people leaving orphaned prints half forgotten, stacked up stewing in the fi xer. It’s such<br />

a shame to see them ruined at the toning stage after all the work to get them there!)<br />

Toning processes that involve a bleaching action are especially likely to unmask poor<br />

processing technique, so remember, “Cleanliness is defi nitely next to (toner) godliness.”<br />

Of the various ways of classifying toners, archival vs. non-archival is a useful and simple<br />

starting point. Of the archival toners, polysulfi de (smelly!), sepia (smelly or non-smelly<br />

varieties), gold, and selenium are the most common. <strong>The</strong>y are all available in commercial<br />

kit form and are very easy to use. Apart from those using a bleach stage, when used<br />

alone they give more restrained color changes with many papers than do their non-archival<br />

counterparts, which can produce strong and even vivid colours. Iron blue and copper<br />

red or brown are the most widely available of these, with titanium and vanadium yellow<br />

being obtainable in the Fotospeed Palette kits. <strong>The</strong>se can give a wonderful range of<br />

greens when used with iron blue.<br />

Toning combinations too many to mention are possible with most toners, regardless<br />

of classifi cation, although particular “rules of engagement” may apply with some<br />

combinations. My own favourite choices depend on (1) the purpose of the print (for<br />

sale or collection), (2) the printing process (lith prints may tone idiosyncratically or<br />

more colourfully with the archival toners), and (3) the nature of the image (or the other<br />

works in that set) and my mood at the time. So describing my “favorite” is like being<br />

asked which one record would I take to a desert island.<br />

When using archival toners, I most commonly use sequential combination<br />

toning rather than a single toner, especially selenium � gold, selenium � sepia,

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