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The DARKROOM COOKBOOK, Third Edition

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2 THE <strong>DARKROOM</strong> <strong>COOKBOOK</strong><br />

Figure 1-1 <strong>The</strong> important thing is not the size or number of enlargers in my darkroom but the ample storage space, overall cleanliness, and the light-colored<br />

walls and ceiling. Regardless of the size or amount of equipment these, along with good ventilation, are prerequisites for a healthy, safe, and rewarding<br />

darkroom experience.<br />

If you do not have a WTC, use a water temperature monitor (WTM). A WTM is simply a<br />

pipe with a built-in thermometer that attaches below the faucet to monitor temperature.<br />

NO LIGHT IS GOOD LIGHT<br />

It is not always possible to achieve an absolute light-tight darkroom. Fortunately, the only part<br />

of the process in which zero light is necessary is while handling fi lm, a problem that can be<br />

easily solved by using a changing bag.<br />

From a personal point of view it is not always desirable to have a light-tight darkroom.<br />

Brett Weston worked in his darkroom after midnight. He lived in the country where there<br />

were no neighbors or city lights. When printing he opened all the windows and doors to<br />

allow the night air to circulate freely. <strong>The</strong> only light was that of the stars.<br />

If you do not live in the country, leaving the doors and windows open is probably not an<br />

option. However, making a room light-tight enough to print is not that diffi cult. An easy way<br />

to block windows is to place a strip of Velcro® around all four sides and attach a piece of<br />

blackout cloth, available from most photo suppliers. Alternatively, use a piece of black Foam

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