Epic Hikes of the World ( PDFDrive )

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Tibetan copper craftwork
At 6.30 next morning, independent groups are packing up their tents while
homestay-trekkers like me grab a quick breakfast and head off – straight up the
side of the ridge towards the Kongmaru Pass. Given the remoteness of the
location, the sudden mini-swarm of humanity snaking up the trail looks
incongruous. But two hours later, there’s a great sense of camaraderie. Having
reached 16,831ft (5130m), gaggles of walkers congratulate each other or stand
dazed by the breathless climb and the sublime panorama of partly snow-topped
peaks. Views are framed by colourfully fluttering prayer flags. And there’s Barnaby
unfurling another long string of such flags as a personal act of devotional piety.
After a lengthy pause it’s time to descend into the red-rock landscape below.
The path skips to and fro across a stream that rapidly gathers power, creating
pretty canyons and vividly coloured micro valleys. Two hours on there’s a handy
parachute cafe and beyond that the fascinating village of Chokdo, where there are
several tempting homestays. But I’m anxious to get back to the Ladakhi capital Leh
so I stride on, arriving by 3pm at Shang Sumdo, the trek’s traditional endpoint.
Gathering a group of fellow travellers at the teahouse, we charter a ride in one of
the two vehicles left in the village and drive off. A hasty move, perhaps. I later
discovered just how beautiful is the nearby Shang Valley. But it’s always great to
save something for the next trip. ME
ORIENTATION
Start // Chilling
End // Shang Sumdo
Distance // 41–48 miles (67–78km)
Getting there // The nearest airport is at Leh, 36 miles (58km) away. Rent a jeep
from there, or pay for a spare seat on the transfer bus of one of the Zanskar River
rafting companies to save money.
When to go // July to August is best; June and September are possible, but snow
on the Kongmaru Pass can be a worry.
Where to stay // There are homestays in virtually every village and hamlet along