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Epic Hikes of the World ( PDFDrive )

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later discover. Clear rolling paths lead us out of Omalo, the tiny summer-only

capital of Tusheti, crowned by a filmset perfect-cluster of koshkebi (tower houses).

Wide forest vistas reveal an infinity of green mountaintops. In the Tolkienesque

hamlet of Dartlo, Tedo has arranged an atmospheric coffee stop at an unmarked

local stone house; from here idyllic streamside tracks lead on to Girevi, where our

simple homestay is magically illuminated in sunset rays. Day two’s narrow,

meandering path follows a dancing river, climbing a flower-filled valley dotted with

shattered stone ruins including ghost villages Hegho and Chontio. On a beautiful

grassy meadow Tedo gets exuberant, standing upright on his horse’s back to

whoop with delight.

© Roland Shainidze | Shutterstock

mountains of Georgia

Tonight we’re camping on a grassy ledge above a sheep-filled corral. Shepherd

Irakli invites us for tea in his rock-walled hovel. Getting there means passing a

dangerous canine frenzy of guarding sheepdogs, but at Tedo’s firm grunted

commands, the dogs fall silent, as though hypnotised. Irakli boils an ash-blackened

kettle on smouldering twigs, his poetically wind-sculpted face partially illuminated

in the smoky glow. It’s a movingly timeless scene and the next morning we return for

breakfast. Irakli has slept outside in his thick felt shepherd-gown, a garment so

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