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Epic Hikes of the World ( PDFDrive )

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prayer flags. Snow-streaked granite peaks encircle us. The place is crowded with

ghosts and good intentions, from the sombre Tibetan portraits to money pegged to

boulders. Every scrap of colour speaks to human endeavour. I join a group of

strangers sharing chocolate and fermented snacks before the pitched 1970ft

(600m) descent.

We reach the valley floor with our feet barking in our boots. A pot of milky tea

restores the warmth to my bones. Sun shining, we work our way down the valley

alongside the tumbling Dzong-Chu river. Dinner is served from a vat of scalding

noodles. Perched high on the slope, I listen to the chanting of the monks of Zutulpuk.

I don’t know if my sins have really left me, but there’s a peace here that

logically follows the trials of the trail.

On the final day we travel 9 miles (14km) on a gentle road that leads us back to

the sparkling Barkha plain. Our circle nearly completed, we keep a steady onward

pace. A human pace. In the distance, trucks whistle across the steppe. CMC

DRÖLMA DO

The Drölma Do is a landmark cubic boulder on the Drölma-la pass. It’s believed

that when Gotsangpa got lost pioneering the route, 21 wolves led him up the pass

and merged into one before becoming the boulder itself. They were emanations of

Drölma, or Tara, goddess of mercy and protector of the pass. The pass is

considered the point of rebirth and forgiveness. Pilgrims circumambulate the

boulder and may paste money there or attach prayer flags.

ORIENTATION

Start/End // Darchen

Distance // 32 miles (52km)

Getting there // Ngari Gunsa Airport is about 200 miles (330km) from Darchen.

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