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Epic Hikes of the World ( PDFDrive )

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more relaxed pace on the track allowed for these moments, and gave more time to

take in the surroundings, experience local culture and gain genuine insight into

day-to-day living. One evening after a swim in the stream next to the campsite, I

watched a porter, Silver, as he fished. After a quick dig for worms he used a small

branch for a rod and a bullet for a sinker. Moments later he pulled out a trout.

many hands make light work of landing at Buna

Living within communities, and walking on local land, the culture is ever present.

So too is the history of the Kokoda campaign; from Buna onwards there are signs

of it everywhere – out in the open air and part of everyday life, from fox holes, to

plane wrecks and supply dumps. Australian tank tracks are used to edge garden

beds and prop up cooking grills, every village has its own makeshift war museum

attached to someone’s private home, and several times during our trek live

ammunition rounds were dislodged from the muddy track when trampled underfoot.

After our final ascent, we walk under the commemorative arch at Owers Corner,

and the emotion of finishing takes many by surprise. On the bumpy bus back to

Moresby, we all say we’ll come back and walk it again – me with much less camera

gear. As others nod off I watch the jungle fade into the distance, power lines slowly

creeping into view, as we wind down the mountains and closer to Port Moresby,

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