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Epic Hikes of the World ( PDFDrive )

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crossing a walk bridge on the Routeburn Track

It was along routes like this, climbing high mountain passes and detouring

through the surrounding valleys, that the ancient people of this land walked

hundreds of years ago. Hardy Maori hunters forged paths through the thick foliage

in search of great boulders of pounamu – known as greenstone or New Zealand

jade – lying like forgotten jewels at the bottom of the rivers and lakes stretching

from here to the west coast.

Great ridges of snow-topped mountains fill the horizon before me, framing three

of these great river valleys, stretching off in different directions – Hollyford to the

north, Eglinton to the southwest and the bushy green slopes of the appropriately

named Greenstone Valley to the southeast. All are shaped by shifting tectonic

plates and the inexorable grinding of colossal glaciers.

I trace along the western flank of the Ailsa Mountains, the path growing steeper

with every step. The Maori walked these paths in sandals made of woven cabbage

leaves, making their way across 50 miles (80km) of treacherous terrain east to their

settlements in Otago. Soon, spray from the thundering deluge of Earland Falls, a

great forked waterfall cascading down from nearly 600ft (180m) above, creates a

fine mist across the path. It winds up alongside a wide grassy meadow with groves

of slender-trunked ribbonwood trees and down into a steep valley, where the

night’s rest stop, Lake Mackenzie Lodge, is neatly tucked. Plumes from its chimney

promise a warming fireside within.

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