Epic Hikes of the World ( PDFDrive )

Dove Cottage, once home to William Wordsworth.
After the village of Rydal, where we visit another Wordsworth home, the route
becomes busy. We walk back along the shores of two lakes. There are walkers
everywhere. On Rydal Water we see orange buoys floating towards us, before I
realise they are swimmers in the lake. The sound of their laughter carries over the
water. Mountain bikers pass us, braking when they see the dog. We reach a rest
stop between the two lakes and it’s here, amid about 20 walkers, that Pepper
steals the stranger’s lunch.
The Lake District is busy. But this isn’t meant to be an empty wilderness – it’s
comfortable, relatable, lived in. Nearby are Victorian villas, 17th-century cottages,
Roman forts and Neolithic stone circles. Man is part of the scenery here, part of
nature.
When I get back to Grasmere, I linger. There’s Wordsworth’s grave to visit, gift
shops to browse and, just as important as the walk itself, the post-walk visit to a
tearoom.
By the time Pepper and I are ready to leave, the tourist coaches have gone and
the light is softening. We walk back along the river, enjoying the views, different
again in the evening light.
Pepper and I agree – it’s like Wordsworth said: ‘This circular vale, in the
solemnity of a fine evening, will make…an impression that will be scarcely ever
effaced.’ PP
A LAKELAND LEGACY
Lakeland’s other famous literary resident was Beatrix Potter, who created Peter
Rabbit. In the Lake District she was equally renowned as a farmer and sheepbreeder
– despite being raised in London. By the time of her death, Potter had
used her wealth to buy 14 Lakeland farms, which she gifted to the National Trust
‘for the benefit of the nation’, creating the beginnings of today’s national park.
ORIENTATION