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© Justin Foulkes | Lonely Planet

the beauty of the pass

Snowflakes glide through the air as Eric and I arrive at the top of the pass. Out

of the wilderness there emerges a grand doorway hung with icicles, and windows

half-submerged in the drifts. We have arrived at the Hospice du GrandSt-Bernard,

a religious hostel that has stood at the highest point of the pass since the 11th

century. Its robe-clad holy men and gigantic St Bernard dogs gained fame as a

mountain-rescue double act: fishing passers-by out of avalanches, guiding them

through fog to the safety of the hospice. Still run by the Catholic Church, the

institution exists for the same purpose today: to welcome and protect passers-by.

© Justin Foulkes | Lonely Planet

plaque at the hospice

Today, the St Bernard dogs live in an institute on the floor of the valley, but the

two-legged community still thrives at the top of the pass. Three canons and several

housekeeping volunteers supply about 50 visitors with clean beds and three

generous meals a day in one of the most hostile wildernesses in Europe. The front

door is open to everyone, regardless of their religion. In 1000 years the door has

never been locked.

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