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Epic Hikes of the World ( PDFDrive )

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late-afternoon sun, all is still, empty, not another soul to be seen.

A few kilometres further I pause to observe a herd of brumbies eyeing me warily.

The stallion stands his ground, snorting. I keep moving, eventually setting up camp

beside a group of snow gums above Cope Saddle, as the temperature plummets

with the sun.

© Age Fotostock | Alamy

the Kosciuszko Main Range is visible on the walk

“The last day’s trip is short but it’s the most magical. The sky is deep

blue, the earth blindingly white and the air frigid”

Early the next day, I’m crunching through thin puddle-hiding-ice and the odd

snowdrift. The pimply summit of Mt Cope (6027ft, 1837m) sits tantalisingly close to

my right, but I’ve got a more pressing goal – the long-drop dunny at Cope Hut.

Mission accomplished, I rush through this ski area on the eastern edge of the

plateau. Missing the moody High Plains solitude, I push on cross-country and bag

Mt Nelse North, Victoria’s number three at 6181ft (1884m), and only marginally

higher than the fire-trail beside it. Massive Bogong is looming ahead as I stroll

downhill to Roper Hut.

The original Roper hut, dating from 1939, burnt in the 2003 fires, but arose

phoenix-like in 2008 as an emergency shelter. I give myself the rest of the

afternoon off, lounging in the sunshine and collecting water from a nearby

cascade.

The following fog-shrouded morning is spent laboriously descending and

ascending steep spurs covered in wet regrowth and fallen trees as I depart the

High Plains, cross Big River and finally climb on to Bogong. From my welcome lunch

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