Epic Hikes of the World ( PDFDrive )

standing on the edge of one of America’s epic sites
After hours of dogged descent, we finally reached the river at Hance Rapids,
setting up camp above a sandy beach at the foot of a jagged red-rock pinnacle.
Down here, the early winter sun managed to nudge the thermometer to around
15°C (60°F) and some of us were tempted to take a dip. But with the river
temperature below 4°C (40°F), even a quick swim bordered on the suicidal; I
paddled about two arms’ lengths into the water before reconsidering and racing to
shore, my innards converted instantly to ice cubes. Later, as sunset yielded to a full
moon, casting eerie illumination over the river and surrounding desert, our
instructors constructed an impromptu sweat lodge from the coyote willows lining the
river bank, and we took turns getting overheated and refrozen on repeat journeys
between the sauna and the river.
Our day on the bottom was filled with teachable moments, as the canyon itself
became an impromptu classroom. Along with exploring the beaches, climbing the
pinnacle above camp and rustling up a pale imitation of a Thanksgiving dinner, we
passed the time discussing geologic esoterica like Vishnu Schist and the Great
Unconformity, while recuperating for the long climb ahead.
“The canyon, so huge and limitless from above, took on greater
intimacy as we stair-stepped down into it”
ROUTE MANOEUVRES
Ready to plan your own hike into the canyon? There are nearly two dozen routes to
choose from, each with its own appeal. For first-timers an obvious choice is the
well-maintained and relatively shady Bright Angel Trail, equipped with two ranger
stations and frequent potable water sources. For something more off-the-beatentrack,
head to the canyon’s less accessible North Rim. Wherever you hike you’ll
need a permit, which should be reserved four months in advance at www.nps.gov.