Epic Hikes of the World ( PDFDrive )

© Justin Foulkes | Lonely Planet
the Roman fort of Housesteads
This isn’t a camper’s walk. Wild camping is illegal in most of England and
Hadrian’s Wall is an archaeological site, largely unexcavated, that demands to be
both respected and preserved. Plus, accommodation is part of the joy of walking in
this part of the world. The whole Hadrian’s Wall National Trail is well lined with
guesthouses, B&Bs and bunkhouses, so all budgets can be catered for. Many
hikers also opt to have their luggage transferred from inn to inn each day, carrying
only necessaries in a daypack.
On my third night on the wall, I splash out for a well-appointed bed and
breakfast in Gilsland, and meet two English brothers and a Canadian couple who
are walking in the other direction. Despite a notable age gap (I am the youngest
here by 20 years), we all bond over the inn’s honesty bar – local craft ales, wine
and chocolates are treats for all walkers once boots are off and wet things hung.
The atmosphere gets rosy, fish and then sticky toffee pudding are served, another
glass of wine, laughter, and finally falling full, happy and a little sore into bed.
Later, I creep down creaking stairs wrapped in a blanket and sit on an iron bench