Movies for TV - Early Television Foundation

220
FUNDAMENTALS
a fade-out is desired. If an optical printer is not available it is
possible to do it in a camera by loading
it with the two films
and exposing at a bright light. If the light is moved away and/or
the lens closed, a perfect fade will be produced. In making fades
the sign of the professional is the clean, smooth fade without jerks.
Another way of making fades is the chemical method. Needless
to say this should never be attempted on the original master negative
in case it goes wrong and the only copy is ruined. A chemical
called Fotofade is sold which will black out a film completely even
years after it has been developed. It is very easily handled ;
all that
is required is a deep bottle such as a milk bottle. The solution is
put in this, and the film gently lowered into it. The speed of immersion
and time in the chemical determine the depth of the fade.
If it is pulled out slowly the last part will be darkest. After fading,
all that is required is thorough washing and drying.
Wipes and Lap Dissolves A lap
bined with a fade-in. It is particularly effective in titles and types
dissolve is a fade-out com-
of work where there is repetition or repetitious subjects such as
long titles. In television, it is used more than any
other kind of
effect in live production.
To make one in the camera during shooting is simplest, but
it often happens that the editor calls for one after the film has
been made. Taking the first case, it is a simple operation if it is
made during production. A fade is made in the usual way; the
film is then wound back by hand to the original starting point
and re-exposed on the new subject. But this time shooting com-
mences with the lens or fading device closed and it gradually opens
to allow the new scene to fade it. In other words, one picture
fades in over the top of the old one which is fading out. Any
method so far described can be used except the chemical fade.
If the camera does not have a rewind device, it is possible to open
the camera in a darkroom and notch the film before starting the
first fade. The total footage can be noted; after the first shooting
take the camera back into the darkroom and rewind the film by
hand until the notch is felt. Start the new fade-in there. If an