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Exercise 4.2 89<br />

8. Onion Rings. Based on your analysis of each <strong>wine</strong> <strong>and</strong> the Onion Rings, select the <strong>wine</strong> that you believe will be<br />

the best match with this dish. Why did you select this <strong>wine</strong>? Taste that <strong>wine</strong> with the onion rings. Did the<br />

match meet your expectations? Next, taste each of the other <strong>wine</strong>s with the Onion Rings. Rank the <strong>wine</strong>s by<br />

level of match with the <strong>food</strong>, from least match to best match. Record any other observations.<br />

Least match 1. 2. 3. 4. Best match<br />

Observations:<br />

9. Roasted Garlic. Select the <strong>wine</strong> that you believe will be the best match with the Roasted Garlic. Why? Did you<br />

perceive similar components, body, or flavors? Taste that <strong>wine</strong> with the dish. Did the match meet your<br />

expectations? Now taste each of the other <strong>wine</strong>s with the garlic. Rank the <strong>wine</strong>s by level of match, from least<br />

match to best match. Record any other observations.<br />

Least match 1. 2. 3. 4. Best match<br />

Observations:<br />

10. Onion Soup. Select the <strong>wine</strong> that you believe will be the best match with the soup. Why did you select that<br />

<strong>wine</strong>? Did you perceive similar components, body, or flavors? Now taste that <strong>wine</strong> with the soup. Did the<br />

match meet your expectations? Next, taste each of the other <strong>wine</strong>s with the soup. Rank the <strong>wine</strong>s by level of<br />

match with the soup, from least match to best match. Record any other observations.<br />

Least match 1. 2. 3. 4. Best match<br />

Observations:<br />

11. Discuss <strong>and</strong> analyze the results. Did any one <strong>wine</strong> match all or the majority of the dishes relatively well? Did a<br />

particular <strong>wine</strong> do a poor job of matching overall? What do you believe was the primary determining factor of<br />

a match between the <strong>wine</strong>s <strong>and</strong> <strong>food</strong>? If you did the optional tasting <strong>and</strong> tasted both reds <strong>and</strong> whites, which<br />

do a better job? Was a particular varietal more <strong>food</strong>-friendly? Why or why not?<br />

EXERCISE 4.2<br />

TERROIR, TAKE 2: THE EARTHY GOODNESS OF MUSHROOMS, TRUFFLES, AND WINE<br />

This exercise is intended to show the<br />

<strong>wine</strong>-friendly character of some classic<br />

earthy <strong>food</strong>s. It is also designed to reinforce<br />

the underst<strong>and</strong>ing of differences<br />

between Old World <strong>and</strong> New World<br />

<strong>wine</strong>s by tasting them side by side with<br />

some earthy <strong>food</strong> dishes.<br />

Mushrooms <strong>and</strong> truffles are two<br />

<strong>food</strong>s with a clearly identifiable earthy<br />

character to them. The recipes that follow<br />

feature mushroom duxelles, black truffles<br />

<strong>and</strong> potatoes (two earthy ingredients),<br />

white truffles <strong>and</strong> risotto, <strong>and</strong> portobellos.<br />

There are many examples of<br />

earthy <strong>food</strong>s, including beets, frogs’ legs,<br />

brown rice, lentils, rainbow trout, <strong>and</strong><br />

crawfish, to name a few. The duxelles<br />

recipe is included because it is a staple of<br />

the French kitchen (I fondly recall making<br />

frequent batches of duxelles as a young<br />

chef to top fish, stuff poultry, as an hors<br />

d’oeuvre topping, a key ingredient in Beef<br />

Wellington, <strong>and</strong> so on). It is easy to prepare<br />

<strong>and</strong> provides a relatively light dish<br />

filled with earthy goodness.<br />

The black truffle <strong>and</strong> mashed potato<br />

recipe combines the earthy taste <strong>and</strong><br />

scent of black truffles with the earthy texture<br />

of potato. When visiting the south of<br />

France with a group of students, I had the<br />

good fortune to visit a marché aux truffes<br />

(a traditional truffle market) <strong>and</strong> visiting<br />

the largest black truffle house in the region,<br />

located in Cahors. While there I had<br />

one of my most memorable meals: black<br />

truffle omelets, good bread, <strong>and</strong> local red<br />

<strong>wine</strong> in a thirteenth-century building. We<br />

ate them off paper plates, st<strong>and</strong>ing up in<br />

a not-yet-completed catering kitchen,<br />

with our <strong>wine</strong> in plastic cups. It was marvelous!<br />

The white truffle <strong>and</strong> risotto recipe<br />

features two items that are definitely<br />

Old World <strong>and</strong> earthy. The white truffle<br />

comes from the Piedmont region in<br />

northwest Italy, near the town of Alba.<br />

Whereas black truffles are generally<br />

served as part of a cooked dish, white<br />

truffles have a distinct aroma, texture,<br />

<strong>and</strong> flavor <strong>and</strong> should not be served in<br />

cooked. White truffles are served sliced

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