food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington

192
Chapter 9 The Impact of Spice
flavor, juniper berries simmer in the sauce as it thickens. To balance the acid note, I replace the green
pepper in the sauce’s traditional ‘Cajun trinity’ (chopped onion, celery, and green bell pepper) with carrot—
a bit like the proverbial pinch of sugar in tomato sauce. A light red wine that can be served slightly chilled,
such as Beaujolais or Saumur Champigny, nicely complements this dish.’’ 3
The challenges of adapting ethnic food dishes to local tastes require thought, experimentation, and
knowing your customer. Many ethnic cuisines include a variety of spices and herbs that can limit our ability
to match these food dishes with wines that create a good or ideal match. Chef Bluysen also points out that
in her situation, wine selection is limited by her customers’ overwhelming preference for red wines. All of
these issues point to the importance of considering how menu items can be delivered in line with consumer
taste while using savvy methods to provide unique experiences for customers that simultaneously shape
their preferences. Judith and her husband, Frédéric, used a variety of techniques to adapt menu items,
menu descriptions, and service styles to meet the tastes of their local clientele. This adaptation process
allowed them to create traditional Louisiana dishes that can be successfully paired with French wines.
Up-to-date information on Judith and Frédéric’s restaurant, Bayou La Seine, can be obtained by
visiting their Web site at www.thanksgivingparis.com.
Food Item: Cajun Matriochka (courtesy of Bayou La Seine)
Yield: 6 servings
Ingredients for Spice
3 tbsp (45 ml) ground ginger
1 tbsp (15 ml) white pepper
1 /2 tbsp (8 ml) paprika
1 tbsp (15 ml) cayenne pepper
1 tbsp (15 ml) herbes de Provence,
crumbled, or 1 tsp each thyme, sage,
and rosemary
1 tbsp (15 ml) oregano, crumbled
1 tbsp (15 ml) tarragon, crumbled
1 tbsp (15 ml) salt
1 tbsp (15 ml) cinnamon
1 K tsp (5 ml) onion powder
1 tsp (5 ml) nutmeg
Ingredients for Matriochka Rolls
6 thin turkey scallops, cut diagonally from
the breast, about 4 oz (120 g) each
1 duck breast, fat and skin pulled off and cut
into 6 very thin diagonal slices, about
1–1 1 /2 inches (2.5-4 cm) wide
6 poached figs, each cut into thirds (reserved
from the sauce preparation above)
2 oz (60 ml) butter
1–2 tbsp (15–30 ml) balsamic vinegar
Preparation
If necessary, carefully pound the turkey scallops until
uniformly thin (about 1/16 inch [1.6 mm]) and about 6
inches by 4 inches (15 cm by 10 cm). Lay one scallop
on a cutting board, the longer sides horizontal. Trim
the left and right sides if necessary. Sprinkle with
some of the spice mix. Place a slice of duck on the
turkey scallop, slightly lower than the center, and
place 3 fig pieces on the duck slice. From the bottom,
roll the turkey to enclose the duck and figs. Slip 3
pieces of twine under the roll and tie to form a
cylindrical shape. Set aside and repeat with the other
5 turkey scallops. Coat each of the rolls with the spice
mix. Heat the butter until foaming in a large skillet
and briefly brown all of the rolls at once, turning so
that they color and firm uniformly. (This should take
no longer than 3 minutes.) Remove the rolls and
deglaze the skillet with 4 cups (about 1 liter) of the
poaching liquid from the pears and figs. Bring to a
boil and reduce for 2–3 minutes. Add the balsamic
vinegar to taste and boil another 1–2 minutes. The
duck should be rosy in color. (At this point the rolls
and the sauce can be cooled, covered, and held under
refrigeration. If the rolls have been chilled, sauté them
briefly in a skillet with butter, then cover and bake at
400°F [205°C] for 7 minutes.) Turn and allow to rest 2
minutes off heat in the covered skillet. Strain the
sauce through a cheesecloth-lined sieve and boil until
syrupy. Slice the uneven ends off the duck rolls and
cut the remainder into 5 or 6 rounds. Pour a little of
the sauce onto the plate and place the rounds cut side
up on the sauce; drizzle a little more sauce on the
rolls.