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food-and-wine-pairing-a-sensory-experience-robert-harrington

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sauce, vegetarian spring rolls, glazed pork roast with apples, fresh strawberries, oven-roasted tomatoes with<br />

goat cheese on toasted baguettes, grilled salmon with zucchini <strong>and</strong> red peppers, <strong>and</strong> Gruyère <strong>and</strong> Emmenthal<br />

cheese fondue with a light rye bread.<br />

Both of these sparklers have received numerous medals at regional <strong>and</strong> international competitions.<br />

The <strong>wine</strong> production at Peller is under the guidance of <strong>wine</strong>maker Lawrence Buhler. Born in Kingston,<br />

Ontario, Lawrence’s family moved to Saudi Arabia where he spent the first 11 years of his life. Lawrence<br />

traveled growing up <strong>and</strong> visited great <strong>wine</strong> regions of the world. During his travels, his father’s interest in<br />

<strong>wine</strong> grew stronger. Although Saudi Arabia was an alcohol free country, Lawrence’s father used travel as a<br />

great excuse to try different <strong>wine</strong>s.<br />

After moving back to Canada in 1990, Lawrence entered into the Chemical Engineering program at<br />

the University of Ottawa in 1997, all the while pursing <strong>wine</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>wine</strong>making as a hobby with his father<br />

who spent countless hours training for his Sommelier designation. It was when tasting his first Pinot Noir,<br />

that Lawrence’s suspicions were confirmed; he was passionate about, <strong>and</strong> destined to work with, <strong>wine</strong>. As<br />

he contemplated his next move, he decided to follow the lead of his father <strong>and</strong> enroll in a Sommelier<br />

program at night. During his days he continued to attend University taking pre-requisite courses so he<br />

could apply to the Brock University Cool Climate Oenology <strong>and</strong> Viticulture Institute (CCOVI). The only<br />

program of its kind in Canada, Lawrence knew that he needed to do everything he could to be accepted<br />

as part of this elite group of future <strong>wine</strong>makers. Calling daily to the university’s admission office paid off<br />

when Lawrence was told that he was accepted into the CCOVI program in 1999.<br />

Graduating in 2002, with only one other, Lawrence knew he wanted to make <strong>wine</strong> in Canada; specifically<br />

Ontario. He was excited to see the progress of Ontario <strong>wine</strong>s <strong>and</strong> how well they were st<strong>and</strong>ing up<br />

to some of the best <strong>wine</strong>s in the world. He saw Ontario as a great opportunity for a young Canadian<br />

<strong>wine</strong>maker <strong>and</strong> saw no need to seek out any other <strong>wine</strong> region.<br />

Interning at some of Niagara’s most well known <strong>and</strong> respected <strong>wine</strong>ries including Marynissen, Strewn,<br />

Vinel<strong>and</strong> Estates, <strong>and</strong> Angels Gate provided Lawrence with a broad range of expertise from viticulture<br />

manager to assistant <strong>wine</strong>maker. He joined Peller Estates in April 2003 as an Assistant Winemaker to Rob<br />

Summers, <strong>and</strong> in the summer of 2005, was awarded the coveted position of Peller Estates Winemaker.<br />

Lawrence’s passion for the vineyard, <strong>wine</strong>making <strong>and</strong> <strong>wine</strong> continues to grow each day as he produces his<br />

own award-winning vintages.<br />

The <strong>wine</strong>ry also features a dining room that overlooks the vineyards, creating a perfect location to<br />

<strong>experience</strong> the <strong>wine</strong>s paired with cuisine indicative of the region. Additional information on Peller Estates<br />

<strong>and</strong> its <strong>wine</strong>s can be found at www.peller.com.<br />

SALTINESS<br />

The level of salt in <strong>food</strong> has a profound impact on appropriate <strong>wine</strong> selections. Small<br />

to moderate levels of salt do not create huge problems when matching <strong>food</strong> with <strong>wine</strong>. In<br />

fact, savory <strong>food</strong>s with moderate levels of salt generally enhance the taste of many red <strong>wine</strong>s.<br />

But <strong>food</strong>s with a high salt content are not compatible with most <strong>wine</strong>s.<br />

As with sweetness in <strong>food</strong>, salt can occur naturally or be added. Salty sensations are<br />

derived from three main sources: sodium chloride, sodium glutamate, <strong>and</strong> potassium chloride.<br />

It comes in various forms such as table salt, rock salt, kosher salt, sea salt, <strong>and</strong> flavored<br />

salts. 1 An important consideration of the use of salt in <strong>food</strong> is the temperature at which it<br />

will be served. The amount of salt is easily detectable at cooler temperatures <strong>and</strong> less pronounced<br />

at warmer ones.<br />

While salt is the primary seasoning agent used to flavor <strong>food</strong>s, it is generally not<br />

present in <strong>wine</strong> at detectable levels, with the exception of perhaps dry sherry. The next time<br />

you get an opportunity, taste a very dry, light sherry (perhaps Tío Pepe or La Ina) <strong>and</strong> notice<br />

the impact on the part of your tongue that is sensitive to saltiness. You should find some<br />

salty characteristics in both Fino <strong>and</strong> Manzanilla sherry. Sometimes traces of salt are identifiable<br />

in Chilean reds <strong>and</strong> Rhône Valley Syrah, but salt traces are not an important <strong>wine</strong><br />

characteristic as a whole. 2<br />

Saltiness 131

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